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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 03:18 PM
  #1  
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wicked wheel

so i have decided to go with clays kit, so i will be pulling the turbo, im a bit nervous about pulling it but have decided that it is best , what write up do you think is best to follow and how long should i be expecting to spend?

also on top of no more surge, will i notice a noise difference in cab?

thanks
 
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by crazer42
also on top of no more surge, will i notice a noise difference in cab?
Yep, the increased whine and whistle is very noticeable.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 04:01 PM
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My IH Bellowed up pipes are in my hands (thanks Clay), so I am getting ready to take down my top side.

I am installing a wicked wheel while I have the turbo off. New O-rings (from Guzzle) under the pedestal.

I got a Frx from Clay during RRE, so that is going in also. Bob (Robert6401) still hasn't found his Frx base, so he is still running mine. That monthly rental fee is really going to start bringing the revenue.

Anyway, Guzzle has some good writeup on changing out the pipes and installing the Wicked Wheel. I have studied those writeups and will be following the process.

Since I saw dang near everybody work on Bob's turbo charge at RRE, I have seen it all.

I plan to start soaking everything with PB Blaster tomorrow night. I figure two different soakings and by Friday night it should have plenty enough PB Blaster to let everything just come right off per the design specifications of IH.

I plan to start a thread by Saturday. I have the "Farmboy" stand ready to go. If I only had "Chuck Norris with wrenches" standing by, I would have more confidence.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 04:06 PM
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Hey Bobby, did you get the replacement base from Clay?

Thanks again for your generosity! I have no idea where that thing ended up!
 
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 05:21 PM
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Just a disclaimer, the WW doesn't completely eliminate surge. It helps to reduce it, but won't eliminate it. Shoot, I can get my 38R to surge.

Give yourself at least half a day, if not more. The V-band clamp on the back side of the turbo to the up-pipes is what will take the most time. Hard to get at and hard to get off. Now is a great time to inspect everything: up-pipes, IC boots, pedestal leaking, etc.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 07:13 PM
  #6  
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good luck crazer, looking forward to the write up...WITH PICS...we love pics...
 
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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Pulling the turbo isn't that bad of a job -- I can have mine out in about 20 mins now. The first time was a little daunting, but it's really a very simple procedure. Don't forget all the O-rings and you might consider deleting the EBPV since you'll have it out...
 
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 10:22 PM
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thanks, and what is the reason for deleting the EBPV, and is it a pretty hard step?
 
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by crazer42
thanks, and what is the reason for deleting the EBPV, and is it a pretty hard step?
It opens up the exhaust a little more and gets rid of a major leak source in the pedestal. The procedure isn't hard, just will take some planning. You need to remove the EBPV actuator from the pedestal, tap the hole the arm comes through (1/4" NPT), install plug, and remove the EBPV itself from the exhaust outlet. Then you have to plug the shaft hole in the outlet (you can use a 3/4" freeze plug).
 
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 09:38 AM
  #10  
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while you have the turbo out you can also adjust your wastegatge arm, hopefully some one can help me out here, there was a very good how to video posted up here. i wish i could remember who so i can thank them again for sharing thier info.
 
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