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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #1  
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behoof
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From: Yale, Mi
Need Help Dead Truck

Hi all,

Wifie was blasting down the road at 60 and the truck suddenly stalled while driving, no chugging (out of fuelish) no smoke out back, no unusual noises, just the no steering no brakes feel. Anyway I took a CPS and headed out there and swapped it but no start.

Noticed no oil pressure on gauge while cranking, the wait to start light was on, the only fuse with a problem was #18, engine oil up to level, visual check ok generally.When cranking the tach needle moved up just a bit but did move.

Changed fuel filter at same time I did the CPS while on the roadside too. Level in filter bowl was up as I recall. Didn't notice any burnt wires in the bottom.

Using a tire gauge on the schrader valve on the filter bowl and a rag I cranked it and got 35psi on the first revolution and then after 3 or 4 more it was at 45psi.

I looked in the hpop resavoir and it was down quite a ways so I primed it and cranked it. The truck turns over like a rocket, two new batts and a very new starter, after priming and cranking for about 7 to 10secs still no start but the oil pressure gage jumped up to normal pressure while cranking, still no start though.

[[sidebar] have OTC scanner and gives message that must connect scanner for it to read??? It worked before now it won't read anything from the connector ]]

I'm pretty new to all this and just don't know what to do from here and was hoping for some help from those who really do know what's what.

I've been reading the forum like crazy and see lots of interesting posts and tried some but no luck yet.

Thanks in advance for reading all this and hope to hear from you soon.

Thanks,
behoof

1996 Ford F250 7.3L Turbo Diesel
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 09:33 PM
  #2  
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F350-6
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Wow. Joined Nov 2006, first post today.

Check fuses. Probably have at least 2 bad. One for cigarette lighter, which also controls OBDII port, and another for the fuel bowl heater (#22 on the OBS?)
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 10:03 PM
  #3  
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behoof
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Originally Posted by F350-6
Wow. Joined Nov 2006, first post today.

Check fuses. Probably have at least 2 bad. One for cigarette lighter, which also controls OBDII port, and another for the fuel bowl heater (#22 on the OBS?)
Gonna go out and check the cigarette lighter fuse now, the #22 checked good with the test light, hot both sides.

Oh and by the way, thanks for the reply and

SAEPIUS EXERTUS, SEMPER FIDELIS, FRATER INFINITAS
OFTEN TESTED, ALWAYS FAITHFUL, BROTHER'S FOREVER

United States Marine Corps
1st Bn 27th Marines 66-70
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 10:12 PM
  #4  
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From: Yale, Mi
cig lighter fuse took care of scanner inop...

Codes read are:

PO 603 Keep Alive memory error

PO 340 CPSensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction

I just put a brand new CPS in it today, what do you think?

behoof
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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F350-6
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Where did you get the CPS from? Too many stories about a bad after market CPS out of the box. You really need a Ford or IH CPS to be safe.


Edit: also check the wiring and plug to the CPS to make sure that's not the issue.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 10:41 PM
  #6  
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At the ZZZZone auto zone...

perhaps I'll be visiting my local IH Dealer tomorrow... any thoughts on other possibilities to be considered?

Thank you
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 11:23 PM
  #7  
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My guess would be with the CPS from auto zone.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 05:29 AM
  #8  
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CPS IH part number you want: 1876736C91
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 02:26 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by F350-6
Where did you get the CPS from? Too many stories about a bad after market CPS out of the box. You really need a Ford or IH CPS to be safe.


Edit: also check the wiring and plug to the CPS to make sure that's not the issue.
Hi again,

Put the IH CPS in it and no start... did find blockage in fuel filter housing so now have that off and cleaning all parts of it...

want to pull standpipe and replace heater but all I have is a American size crows foot and since it's plastic I'm afraid to screw it up.

Sooo, wanted to be sure that it is a right hand thread before I go putting the torque to it.

The Ford Dealer says the part is $75.00 (I choked on that when I heard it) and I'd really rather not screw it up.

Any thoughts on how I can get it out without messing it up??

Thanks again guys,
behoof
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 02:31 PM
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The standpipe in the fuel bowl is reverse thread. Turn it to the right to pull it out. It just takes a little bit to get it out(I have pulled several out with just a pair of channel locks on the pipe itself before).

What does fuse #18 go to guys?? I don't have anything here to see what it goes to. Was the fuel heater wire broken in the fuel bowl?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 02:53 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
The standpipe in the fuel bowl is reverse thread. Turn it to the right to pull it out. It just takes a little bit to get it out(I have pulled several out with just a pair of channel locks on the pipe itself before).

What does fuse #18 go to guys?? I don't have anything here to see what it goes to. Was the fuel heater wire broken in the fuel bowl?
Fuse #18 = trailer battery charge relay.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 02:53 PM
  #12  
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pff250hd
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Maxi-Fuse Position Amps Circuits Protected
8 30 Injector Driver Module (IDM) Power
9 30 Powertrain Control Module (PCM), PCM Power Relay, Electronic Transmission Control, Injector Pressure Regulator, Injector Driver Module
10 20 See Fuses 15 and 18 (IP Fuse Panel), Starter Relay
11 — Not Used
12 20 Diode Current Flows from Fuse 22 to PCM Power Relay
13 50 See Fuses 5, 9 and 13 (IP Fuse Panel)
14 — Not Used
15 50 See Fuses 1 and 7 (IP Fuse Panel) and Fuse 5
16 — Not Used
17 50 Generator Charge Indicator, Instrument Cluster. See Fuses 2, 3, 6, 11 and 17 (IP Fuse Panel) and Maxi-Fuse 22. Also See Circuit Breaker 12.
18 30 Trailer Battery Charge Relay
19 40 Main Light Switch, Headlamps
20 50 See Fuses 4, 8 and 16 (IP Fuse Panel). Also See Circuit Breaker 12.
21 30 Trailer Electronic Brake Control Unit
22 20 Fuel Line Heater, 215 Amp Generator/Voltage Regulator, PCM Power Relay Coil, Glow Plug Controller
Relay 1 Relay Powertrain Control System
Relay 2 Relay Injector Driver Module (IDM) Relay
Relay 3 Relay Horn
Relay 4 Relay Trailer Tow or Dual Rear Wheel Running Lamps
Relay 5 — Not Use
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 02:58 PM
  #13  
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OK, so 18 is not an issue. Just asking since he said he had a problem with that one.

OP, did you check the wiring leading up to the CPS???
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 05:29 PM
  #14  
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I was able to take the standpipe from the bowl with just my hands. I've tried BWD and Echlin CPSs with no success before. The IH ones always work. About $8 cheaper than Ford too.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #15  
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behoof
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From: Yale, Mi
Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
OK, so 18 is not an issue. Just asking since he said he had a problem with that one.

OP, did you check the wiring leading up to the CPS???
Yep, thanks again. got it out ... took out the Fuel filter bowl assy and took it all apart and cleaned everything up... put a new heater in it and put it back in.

No start <grrrrrrrr> <frustration>

loosened one of the return lines from the front of the left head and cranked it and got nothing, no fuel at all.

What am I missing here? Is this gonna turn out to be a fuel pump problem?

Shouldn't the loose line have high pressure (40 psi or so) blasting out of there?

Oh yeah, and I replaced all of the rubber goods on it while apart.

Thoughts, tips?
 
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