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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 07:46 PM
  #16  
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How long have you tried to start it? If the fuel rails are empty, you'll have to crank to re-fill them before it can start. Have you checked the schraeder valve while cranking since putting the bowl back together? Have you checked fuse 22 since putting it back together?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 09:44 PM
  #17  
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From: Yale, Mi
Originally Posted by F350-6
How long have you tried to start it? If the fuel rails are empty, you'll have to crank to re-fill them before it can start. Have you checked the schraeder valve while cranking since putting the bowl back together? Have you checked fuse 22 since putting it back together?
Hi F350-6,

Tried for probably a total of 3 or maybe 4 minutes total cranking time... Yes, checked schrader with tire gage and nothing there either...

Fuse 22 is OK

loosened one of the return lines from the front of the left head and got nothing, zero while cranking... I filled the fuel filter bowl completely and the hpop res was right up there too...

>>>> getting to be a bit bewildering, I'm really wondering if I've got a bad mechanical fuel pump?

Sorry for the slow reply, didn't see there were two pages DUH, new guy stuff here, oops
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 09:22 AM
  #18  
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Update: On No Start

Originally Posted by behoof
Yep, thanks again. got it out ... took out the Fuel filter bowl assy and took it all apart and cleaned everything up... put a new heater in it and put it back in.

No start <grrrrrrrr> <frustration>

loosened one of the return lines from the front of the left head and cranked it and got nothing, no fuel at all.

What am I missing here? Is this gonna turn out to be a fuel pump problem?

Shouldn't the loose line have high pressure (40 psi or so) blasting out of there?

Oh yeah, and I replaced all of the rubber goods on it while apart.

Thoughts, tips?
</frustration></grrrrrrrr>Still no start.

As mentioned pulled fuel filter housing and went through it (replaced heater too Ford $67.00) and still no start. Cleaned it up nicely and pulled the regulator apart to be sure all was clean and happy, done and looks good.

The hpop resevoir is full and I get 40psi + at the schrader.

All the fuses are good but no way to test the relays so moved them around and nothing quit working where I moved #1 and 2 relay's.

I have an OTC scanner (I know it's not the best but all I have) and it shows no codes only clear. The only code that was ever set was no power and I replace the cigarette fuse and then when I was able to scan it showed Cam Position Sensor Bank 1.

I had put an Auto Zone CPS in it but removed it and put in an IH sensor to be safe.

I'm at a loss and don't know where to go from here. I'm in the Yale, Mi area of Southeast Michigan so if anyone is near me or knows of someone that is familiar with our trucks I'd appreciate the info.

Any help at this time will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Skip aka behoof
<grrrrrrrr><frustration>
</frustration></grrrrrrrr>
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 09:36 AM
  #19  
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Did you re connect the main wiring harness on Or near the fuel bowl?
May also want to try switching the small relays around in the distribution box under the hood .I think # is for the horn , you can test them that way .

Also ,have you tried starting it with the ICP unplugged . If the IPR Is stuck open , sometimes that will free it up ...
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 11:13 AM
  #20  
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From: Yale, Mi
Checked as you said

Originally Posted by Action4478
Did you re connect the main wiring harness on Or near the fuel bowl?
May also want to try switching the small relays around in the distribution box under the hood .I think # is for the horn , you can test them that way .

Also ,have you tried starting it with the ICP unplugged . If the IPR Is stuck open , sometimes that will free it up ...
Hi Action4478,

I did as you mentioned and rechecked the main wiring harness and re-dielectric'd it too.

Tried to start with ICP unplugged, nothing

Went back thru all the relays and fuses... and the two relays that are in a small holder to the rear of the main power supply fuse box, they're labled #1 and #2. I found known good relays and made sure they were in main power box at positions 1 and 2 and as mentioned made sure the smaller box has two good relays.

Oh yeah, I also pulled the IDM and checked for problems with wire, etc and dielectric'd it also.

Still no start... I think back a ways I mentioned that I have brand new batts and the starter is like new so it cranks like crazy.

Your thoughts? and thanks
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 11:37 AM
  #21  
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I think the IPR Is stuck open . They are not cheap . Is there a way you can get the truck on scanner ?

You may want to remove the grease from the IDM & put it only on the seal.. Did you shake it when you had it out (water inside) ?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #22  
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From: Yale, Mi
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Originally Posted by Action4478
I think the IPR Is stuck open . They are not cheap . Is there a way you can get the truck on scanner ?

You may want to remove the grease from the IDM & put it only on the seal.. Did you shake it when you had it out (water inside) ?
I didn't take the cover off of it.
I'll clean up the dielectric from the IDM when I go back out there in a little bit... understand the thinking but thought dielectric was appropriate for a connection like that?

When I shook and rolled the IDM around there was no sensation of water at all.

I live in Yale, Mi, actually a bit South of there, so about the only way I could get it on a good scanner would be towed to the Ford Dealer and I REALLY don't want to do that (for obvious reasons)

What would make you think IPR stuck open? the fact that this truck died suddenly at over 50mph? or what?

Talk to you in a bit,
Skip
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 11:48 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by behoof
I'll clean up the dielectric from the IDM when I go back out there in a little bit... understand the thinking but thought dielectric was appropriate for a connection like that?

When I shook and rolled the IDM around there was no sensation of water at all.

I live in Yale, Mi, actually a bit South of there, so about the only way I could get it on a good scanner would be towed to the Ford Dealer and I REALLY don't want to do that (for obvious reasons)

What would make you think IPR stuck open? the fact that this truck died suddenly at over 50mph? or what?

Talk to you in a bit,
Skip
You have electrical ,& fuel ,but no oil pressure at the injectors .. It could also be the IDM , not cheap either ..A Scanner would help to keep you from throwing parts on it ..Is the HPOP res staying full?...
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 01:25 PM
  #24  
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yes i was also going to say that the IDM may be bad, if your getting fuel pressure and you dont really have any other codes and your CPS is good then ill say the IDM. there cheap at a junk yard
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 01:30 PM
  #25  
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Which scanner is best & reasonably priced?

Originally Posted by Action4478
You have electrical ,& fuel ,but no oil pressure at the injectors .. It could also be the IDM , not cheap either ..A Scanner would help to keep you from throwing parts on it ..Is the HPOP res staying full?...

What would be a worthwhile scanner to use for this truck? All I have now is this old OTC code reader.

Yes the HPOP res is staying full. and when I did a pressure test on the head galleys using a 5000psi tractor gage it blew my hose... it happened pretty fast but way over 1000psi, again it just started flying up and the hose blew while cranking and oil covered everything (LOL gotta laugh at that I guess?) .
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 03:37 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by behoof
What would be a worthwhile scanner to use for this truck? All I have now is this old OTC code reader.

Yes the HPOP res is staying full. and when I did a pressure test on the head galleys using a 5000psi tractor gage it blew my hose... it happened pretty fast but way over 1000psi, again it just started flying up and the hose blew while cranking and oil covered everything (LOL gotta laugh at that I guess?) .
You also have High pressure oil too , that rules out the IPR stuck open .. See if you can borrow an IDM for a test ...
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #27  
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I have seen you post once that you had no pressure at the shrader valve and then in the next post you had 40+psi at the shrader, but you also said you didn't have any fuel coming from the return lines?

Right now I'd go with Rick and say try finding a good IDM at a junkyard or something and try it..

Rick, how far are you from him? Maybe he could take it to you to scan it??? Just a thought...
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 05:08 PM
  #28  
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Actually I don't know where Yale is . I'm 30 or so miles west from Grand Rapids ...
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 05:12 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
I have seen you post once that you had no pressure at the shrader valve and then in the next post you had 40+psi at the shrader, but you also said you didn't have any fuel coming from the return lines?

Right now I'd go with Rick and say try finding a good IDM at a junkyard or something and try it..

Rick, how far are you from him? Maybe he could take it to you to scan it??? Just a thought...
Right on those posts of mine...

I had been cranking a bit on it after the filter bowl cleanout and didn't crank long enough to get the heads full (I figure) thus nothing at the schrader. Now it's over 40psi at schrader. Appears to have good fuel flow and the hpop res is staying full and if I hit it with a tiny bit of ether or whatever (glow plugs unhooked) it will fire.

I've pulled the IDM and moved it around and no sound of H2O, no corrosion on pins or female side, just looks OK externally.

Now stuck for the long weekend, everyone will be closed Damn >>> I mean Darn ;-)

Skip aka behoof
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 06:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Action4478
Actually I don't know where Yale is .

I'm 30 or so miles west from Grand Rapids ...

Yale is about 30 miles West of Port Huron 10 milesNorth of I-69 right on M-19.

We're really quite a ways apart, darn-it...

What kind of scanner do you use for your truck?

Sorry for the slow reply, newbie, just caught your post
 
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