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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 11:53 AM
  #1  
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Engine removal questions

OK, so today I get to do some more work removing the engine in my baby. Couple of questions-

- I took th hood off, so can I leave the turbo on to pull it out- guess it don't matter I can pull one, rebuild it, and have it back in in under 2 hours- got lots o' practice LOL

- are the mount bolts hard to get to?

- any other particulars I should look out for, i.e. ground strap on rear of head?

Thanks guys!
 
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 12:28 PM
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Yes if you're pulling it out the front, turbo/mount/up pipes need to come off first.

Start hitting those nuts/bolts with PB Blaster!
 
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 12:35 PM
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Here Danny, this guys first post and it should all be here, I think including the beer count needed.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...250-7-3-a.html
 
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 01:07 PM
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Hey Pat, thanks for the link, that covers overthing form soup to nuts. Unfortunately I'll be working on it at the on-base hobby shop, so I can't drink, can't even spit my dip in the trash cans .

Superdoodie- the damn turbo was only installed about 4 months ago, so it better not give me any trouble. I am however concerned with the exhaust manifolds, them things are nasty!! And kindy leaky, so might look into getting about .010 shaved off to seal them up good.

Can't forget to get new inj o-rings and gaskets, fluids, rtv....

Also thinking about painting the block Red to match the intake components and truck. I wonder how a red block would look hmmm.... would definitely help with locating leaks- not that I better have any!
 
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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94 smokin stroker
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Well ziggy (Cory) has his orange and i like it looks good i think red would look cool
 
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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I would like to add something about the excessive use of RVT. Yes you want to use enough but over doing it will risk blocking the oil pickup screen. I have changed a few oil pans myself and even the factory amount of RVT used was enough to almost completely block the oil pickup screen. I would say a 1/4" bead all around should be good and has been enough for all the pans I have done. When the pan is tightened down there should be just a small amount of squeezed out RVT all around the pan, not big gobs bulging out all over the place.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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Hey all, back from a weekend at the beach on base with the family. I would've loved to work on the engine, but family time is more important. Anyways, so far I got the a/c, alt, dampner, hpop, and turbo off. And YES, the v-band clamp on the baby's butt was a PITA as usual, but nothing some PB Blaster, prybar, and hammer couldn't fix. I was really hoping that I could build it all the way up and then just drop it in, just like when you do a car or boat engine. Guess not... BUT, hopefully I can get the damn thing apart and out this week and off to get magnafluxed. Thanks again for the advice!
 
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