I just got AE and am looking for some help. From you guys that use AE or the Ford Techs on here can you point me in the right direction. I bought it to keep an eye on things for preventative maintenance. What things should I check on the first hookup? And what should I be checking periodically? I am no means a ford tech and don't plan on self diagnosing. Just wanted a more in-depth monitoring option. Repair work will still be done by my Ford dealer.

I am upgrading my turbo, injectors and some other mods. So I wanted to know if I should be replacing some things while in there working on the mods. Ie. ICP, turbo drain tube etc.

What parts should be checked and can AE test them somehow?

Thanks for your input!

 

Bump back to the top, they might see your thread tonight.

 

I can't remember if you have gauges or not, but if you don't then I would for sure check on the ECT/EOT spread while driving.

It might not hurt to go thru some of the main parameters and just to see if they are up to snuff while you are out and about driving around.

Every now and then I like to run an injector buzz test.

I would for sure if nothing else check codes periodically as we all know that just because there isn't a light "on" on the dash, doesn't mean that there isn't any codes in the computer.

Speaking of lights, it also isn't a bad idea to have AE turn on lights on the dash that aren't used(hopefully) a lot by your truck(ie wrench light, CEL etc) just to make sure that the bulbs are still working incase the truck might need to "tell" you something.

Define "upgrade". Are we talking just improved "stock" items or full blown a/m items?

 

I ordered a bunch of stuff from Eric at Innovative Diesel:

ITP Regulated Return
Airdog II
Banks Intercooler w/ elbow etc.
190 cc standard injectors
New Garret Powermax turbo

Already have:
5" Bullydog exhaust (cat still there.....me thinks)
Airaid CAI
ARP studs w/ Black Onyx gaskets
RCD EGR delete
Suncoast lvl 3 tranny w/ lvl 5 converter
SCT tunes from eric
Dieselsite coolant filter


So before the stuff got to me I wanted to run tests or check things out beforehand with the Autoenginuity.

I have an older Insight so I have been monitoring my eot and eoc delta. Which lead to a new oil cooler and an egr delete from RCD a few weeks ago. So the oil cooler should be good.

I guess I was wondering how to test the ICP because I've read the early '04 can have problems with them. I figured it would be a good time to replace if the turbo is off.

I am also wondering how to check HPOP health etc.

I got a new FICM last winter but I figured how to test it with AE. It was 47.5-48V on start-up and idling/driving.

I also replaced both batteries right after the new FICM. But checked voltage. Usually around 12.4-12.6V not running and sitting overnight. When running seems to stay around 13.5V.

And because I am new to diesels I thought maybe some of you guys would recommend other things to test/monitor. I just want to make a good attempt to have my truck as healthy as possible before adding on the mods, and do any repairs I should while in there working.

What other things and how do you test them? I can't find any step by step help for the software. The manual isn't very helpful regarding tests etc. It just explains all the features and windows etc. So I'm looking for some help, ie. not just "hey,run a contribution test on cylinders", but what test and how to do it

Thanks for your comments Tex, I look forward to more info.

BTW - If anyone else is new to the software and doesn't know what system provides what monitoring like me lol I took screenshots of them all and will be making a list. I'll try to post it when it's done. I didn't think the Hybrid Electronic Cluster applied to me rofl (I don't own a hybrid ) But tried it and found more useful PIDS.

 

Well the buzz test is done thru the on-board diag tab. All you really have to do is select the test and then tell it to initialize test and you are good to go. A lot of your other tests are there as well(like KOER etc), also your ability to disable the Belt minder is in there and your ability to change the speedo to compensate for up to 40" tires(dealerships can only do 37" if I recall correctly).

As to the injector contribution test, you'll need to go under the actuation tab and turn off the individual injector that you want to test(only one at a time). Now I have the 8.2 software(I think they have the 8.3 out now, just haven't gotten around to download it yet, I know lazy me, but I also don't know if they added the graphing ability to the contribution test yet. They were working on it.) and when you do the contribution test on this way, you would have to set up RPMs on one of your gauges and look to see if there is a fluctuation in what the RPMs do after you shut off the injector.

 

So if the RPM fluctuate there's a problem with the injector that is turned off?

 

I have a standard set of data that I record on a run with the AE which I save. Then a few months later I run it again and compare to see if anything has changed. I caught a FICM problem that way just the other day. No CEL, engine running fine, but I noticed an overall lower FICM voltage than I had the run a few months before, I then checked the codes and saw that a 0611 code had been set. Probably saved me getting stranded on the side of the road when it went really bad. I also monitor HPOP pressure and IPR, if I ever develop a HP leak it should show up there also. I run an Edge insight normally, so I monitor ECT/EOT daily that way. I figure this catch on the FICM paid for the AE in one shot as it might not have been caught until off warranty + a tow. Also I had a backup sensor go bad, and AE told me which one. My ford dealer wants $499 for a diagnostic on diesels off warranty (2.5 hours they say), It isn't IDS but it'll catch most things that I could fix myself.

 

How do you do the IPR and HPOP test?

 

I've heard(and mine does this as well) of dealerships charging for 1 hr of diagnostic computer time for off warranty diag, but not 2.5 hrs. Unless there is something else going on it seems to me that that dealership is overly concerned with their profits and really trying to get those profits.

I think AE is close enough to IDS(and continues to get closer with some of the newer updates with regard to the 6.0) that it would make it worth the price for most of us DIYs.