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Door Seal Mod Video

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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 11:46 AM
  #76  
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Great photos and follow-up. You're not the first to think the seals are too tight. The door does really "pop" open right after installation. Most folks will notice the same thing but the seals will eventually take the shape of the door and relax a bit over a couple of weeks. I'd say to leave the seals in place for a while and see if they ease up for you. If you think they're still too tight a few weeks later, you can always do as you suggest and find a smaller diameter tubing. I haven't heard of anyone actually doing that yet so you'd be the first. That's my take.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 11:53 AM
  #77  
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Thanks Epic, I think I will wait for the main body to relax a bit more and then introduce the one on the rear doors.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 09:11 AM
  #78  
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Wow...what a great video. Thank you.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 09:33 AM
  #79  
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I ended up with about a foot left of tubing off of the 50' roll. I managed to get a complete roll with no splices.

use a bunch of lube.
the first one I didn't use enough and we ended up tearing the door seal.

lots'o lube is the ticket to a smooth and quick install.

new crew cab front door seal :
part number - 3c3z-2520708-AA
list - $98.36
I found them from $43 to list price.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 06:35 PM
  #80  
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so i just read that 50ft will give you a tad bit of spare. good to know. whats a good lube to use thats not petroleum based so that no harmful effects will occur to the tubing or door seal
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 06:47 PM
  #81  
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soapy water should work good
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 06:52 PM
  #82  
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is it 3/16 tubing? with 3/32 wall thickness?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 06:56 PM
  #83  
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3/8"OD 1/16"wall
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 07:57 PM
  #84  
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i found some industrial grade tubing called norprene. not neoprene. anyone hear of it
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 07:58 PM
  #85  
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or what about santoprene?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 08:27 PM
  #86  
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this santoprene stuff really has me interested. not only because it seems superior to latex and will likely outlast the vehicle, but also cause a 50' roll is 18 bucks.
check it out.
Black 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD Santoprene
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 08:44 PM
  #87  
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ok... so after further research, ive learned all about rubber, weatherstriping, and tubing. as for weatherstriping, its EPDM...heres the link
EPDM rubber - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

so... since im trying to match the material...ive found EPDM tubing, and its fairly cheap.

Tubing, EPDM, 3/8 In OD, Black, 50 Ft - EPDM Tubing - Pipe and Tubing - 5RMA6 : Grainger Industrial Supply

the ID and wall thickness are a bit different, but i havent looked around too much. (yet)

hope this is interesting to someone other than myself
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 08:53 PM
  #88  
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yep...I used black surgical tubing that Epic suggested and good old fashioned fish oil (WD-50) for lube and lots of it. Worked like a charm.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #89  
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im thinkin to try the epdm stuff... a 50ft roll is 13 bucks from grainger, and theres one a mile from my work (no shipping)... and if it doesnt feel right, i dont have to buy it.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:11 PM
  #90  
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You've got my interest. I think the rebound properties are what is at stake here. If the epdm returns to shape after repeated door closures and over time it looks like you might have a winner. My concern is that this is something that is fairly simple to do, but I only want to do it once, to reduce the chance of tearing my factory door seals fishing the tubing through.
 
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