Door Seal Mod Video
#61
03-04-2012, 06:16 PM
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Well I got the tubing from Amazon yesterday. Cut off a small section of each to do some testing with. Here is what I found:
The latex tubing is about a 64th shy of the stated 3/8" and ID is also off a bit of the stated 1/4". The silicone is right on 3/8"/1/4". The silicone does feel a little stiffer in my hand. The latex makes a "crackly crunchy" sound when I roll it between my fingers, not sure what causes that but I don't think it will affect anything.
Compression...I put a piece of each onto a digital scale and pressed on the end until the opening was closed. At room temperature the latex closed at about 12-13 oz of pressure. The silicone was a little more at around 14-15 oz. I then placed the sample pieces in the freezer and cranked it all the way down and left it over night. Was able to reach real close to 0 degrees F. Tried the pressure test again. The latex was now about 22 ounces to close while the silicone was about 17-18.
Stretch...I used a 2.5" section of each and held it in my hands and pulled. Was able to stretch the silicone to 4.5" before is slipped out of my grip. The latex went to just over 7".
Weight...The silicone weighs about 33% more than the latex.
Heat...I used a heat gun on high and exposed both to the same amount of heat. The latex started "sweating" and remained gooey and left a black sticky residue even after it cooled. The silicone looked and felt no worse for wear.
Fire...Took a propane torch to both. The latex caught fire quickly and burned with a sooty flame. The silicone did finally catch and hold a flame but was much later in the test. It would re-ignite itself several times after I would blow it out kind of like those trick birthday candles. It left a crusty ash where the latex was a molten glob.
None of these tests really matter but were fun to perform. Was not able to install them into the door seals yet. Probably do that Tuesday when my neighbor is home to help me out with the pulling and evaluation of wind noise while I drive.
Stay tuned...
The latex tubing is about a 64th shy of the stated 3/8" and ID is also off a bit of the stated 1/4". The silicone is right on 3/8"/1/4". The silicone does feel a little stiffer in my hand. The latex makes a "crackly crunchy" sound when I roll it between my fingers, not sure what causes that but I don't think it will affect anything.
Compression...I put a piece of each onto a digital scale and pressed on the end until the opening was closed. At room temperature the latex closed at about 12-13 oz of pressure. The silicone was a little more at around 14-15 oz. I then placed the sample pieces in the freezer and cranked it all the way down and left it over night. Was able to reach real close to 0 degrees F. Tried the pressure test again. The latex was now about 22 ounces to close while the silicone was about 17-18.
Stretch...I used a 2.5" section of each and held it in my hands and pulled. Was able to stretch the silicone to 4.5" before is slipped out of my grip. The latex went to just over 7".
Weight...The silicone weighs about 33% more than the latex.
Heat...I used a heat gun on high and exposed both to the same amount of heat. The latex started "sweating" and remained gooey and left a black sticky residue even after it cooled. The silicone looked and felt no worse for wear.
Fire...Took a propane torch to both. The latex caught fire quickly and burned with a sooty flame. The silicone did finally catch and hold a flame but was much later in the test. It would re-ignite itself several times after I would blow it out kind of like those trick birthday candles. It left a crusty ash where the latex was a molten glob.
None of these tests really matter but were fun to perform. Was not able to install them into the door seals yet. Probably do that Tuesday when my neighbor is home to help me out with the pulling and evaluation of wind noise while I drive.
Stay tuned...
With that being the case, it would be reasonable to think that the silicone will make the door even harder to close than the latex. Partly because it's slightly stiffer and probably more so because it is simply a larger diameter.
I haven't done a long term test on any of the cars I've done the door seal mod to. I no longer have my Expedition or Excursion (door seals upgrades 5 plus years ago) which would have been fun to see how the latex tubing is holding up. I just checked the SportTrac which has 3 1/2 year old latex in the seal and it looks to be in new condition although it is slight deformed. It has indeed changed shape slightly to fit the door jamb and does not return to a perfect circle.
#62
03-04-2012, 07:54 PM
Did the door seal using 3/8 latex tube from amazon, went well I no longer have that cheap double bounce sound when I shut the door. So far on my 2012 cc I have installed the door seal, infinity front door speakers, and air lift air bags and wireless one air compressor, thanks guys for all the great ideas, next is probably some retro soution lignt uprade. Epic, which retro light kit did you get and how do you like them so far.
#63
03-04-2012, 08:16 PM
Join Date: Apr 2004
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Did the door seal using 3/8 latex tube from amazon, went well I no longer have that cheap double bounce sound when I shut the door. So far on my 2012 cc I have installed the door seal, infinity front door speakers, and air lift air bags and wireless one air compressor, thanks guys for all the great ideas, next is probably some retro soution lignt uprade. Epic, which retro light kit did you get and how do you like them so far.
#64
03-06-2012, 09:41 AM
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Epic did my door seal mod today took it for a short drive and didnt notice a change really but I can tell that all 4 doors shut tighter now. I am sure once I get up on the interstate it will be easier to tell not to metion the wind is blowing about 25mph here today. Thanks for the video worked great but a little harder to do alone I will admit.
#65
03-06-2012, 11:07 PM
OK...got the mod done today. Silicone on the driver's side. Latex on the passenger's side. The mod could not be easier and thanks (and reps) go to Epic for the video preview so I knew what was involved. My buddy was just amazed someone thought of this and remarked over and over what a great idea it was. He is going to see about doing it to all his vehicles too.
Rather than use spray lube, I used a plastic tub with warm soapy water. Worked slicker than snot on a hot glass door **** (literally). Also don't have to worry about any problems with reactions of the moulding or the tubing with the propellants or the lubricants themselves or getting lube all over my skin. Latex and petroleum products are a no no.
Added tubing to both sides, dried it off, re-installed it, good to go in less than 1/2 hour for all 4 doors.
The silicone side is definately stiffer. You don't notice it as much when closing the door normally but where you can feel it is if you close the door to the first click and then push on it to go to the second click (fully closed). Just takes more pressure. This is not necessarilly a bad thing but it will take a little getting used to. Both sides fully eliminated the double bounce effect that you feel before the mod. It does "pop" into your hand when opening a door now.
For grins I put a section of each in a vice and left them there for the last two days. Granted not a long test but the pressure was extreme as it was as tight as I could compress it. The latex is still a flat piece of rubber. The silicone popped right back into a tube after a few seconds. This may have some importance after the mod has been in place for an extended time.
Wind noise. Yes it reduces it. I have an app on my I-phone with a decibel meter on it but the results of it were inconclusive as it is difficult to get any kind of control situation in the short amount of time I had plus it's a $.99 app...how accurate could it be? I definately can notice the difference in my ear though. It was extremely windy in KC today so the windy condition was able to be audibly noticed inside the cab. I drove up and down the freeway at the "legal" speed limit
(up to 80-85ish), with the wind, against the wind and with both crosswinds. It is quieter all the way around but very noticable with the crosswinds. The silicone side abated the gusts better most likely due to the tighter seal. I still hear some noise, possibly road noise and not from the wind as it seems to come more from the door handle area and not from the edges but I have not performed the full Dynamat mod yet. The "Fordcedes effect" is real. The doors seem and sound much better than before. Perceived quality increased. 
I would say either one of these types of tubing would work just fine and I am sure the extra stiffness of the silicone will not be enough to harm the integrity of the door seal at all. I can see how a vinyl or plastic tubing would not work at all in this same situation. I will try both sides like this over the summer and winter and try to remember to give an after action report in about a year.
I think my buddy said it best with "why doesn't Ford do this from the factory when is does so much good and doesn't cost hardly anything?"
Good question.
Rather than use spray lube, I used a plastic tub with warm soapy water. Worked slicker than snot on a hot glass door **** (literally). Also don't have to worry about any problems with reactions of the moulding or the tubing with the propellants or the lubricants themselves or getting lube all over my skin. Latex and petroleum products are a no no.
Added tubing to both sides, dried it off, re-installed it, good to go in less than 1/2 hour for all 4 doors.
The silicone side is definately stiffer. You don't notice it as much when closing the door normally but where you can feel it is if you close the door to the first click and then push on it to go to the second click (fully closed). Just takes more pressure. This is not necessarilly a bad thing but it will take a little getting used to. Both sides fully eliminated the double bounce effect that you feel before the mod. It does "pop" into your hand when opening a door now.
For grins I put a section of each in a vice and left them there for the last two days. Granted not a long test but the pressure was extreme as it was as tight as I could compress it. The latex is still a flat piece of rubber. The silicone popped right back into a tube after a few seconds. This may have some importance after the mod has been in place for an extended time.
Wind noise. Yes it reduces it. I have an app on my I-phone with a decibel meter on it but the results of it were inconclusive as it is difficult to get any kind of control situation in the short amount of time I had plus it's a $.99 app...how accurate could it be? I definately can notice the difference in my ear though. It was extremely windy in KC today so the windy condition was able to be audibly noticed inside the cab. I drove up and down the freeway at the "legal" speed limit
(up to 80-85ish), with the wind, against the wind and with both crosswinds. It is quieter all the way around but very noticable with the crosswinds. The silicone side abated the gusts better most likely due to the tighter seal. I still hear some noise, possibly road noise and not from the wind as it seems to come more from the door handle area and not from the edges but I have not performed the full Dynamat mod yet. The "Fordcedes effect" is real. The doors seem and sound much better than before. Perceived quality increased. I would say either one of these types of tubing would work just fine and I am sure the extra stiffness of the silicone will not be enough to harm the integrity of the door seal at all. I can see how a vinyl or plastic tubing would not work at all in this same situation. I will try both sides like this over the summer and winter and try to remember to give an after action report in about a year.
I think my buddy said it best with "why doesn't Ford do this from the factory when is does so much good and doesn't cost hardly anything?"
Good question.
#68
03-07-2012, 04:23 PM
Elder User
Woo Hoo, the black latex tubing shipped yesterday and should be here friday....gee wonder what I will be doing after work 
As I have a supercab (and someone asked about the strip on the suicide door) I will try to at least get some pics of an install on a super cab since Epic did the crew cab already... I knew I should have gotten the darn crew cab, not many of us super cab guys kicking around.
No video, still waiting for Epic to do a video on "How to do a GREAT Video"
As I have a supercab (and someone asked about the strip on the suicide door) I will try to at least get some pics of an install on a super cab since Epic did the crew cab already... I knew I should have gotten the darn crew cab, not many of us super cab guys kicking around.
No video, still waiting for Epic to do a video on "How to do a GREAT Video"
#70
03-08-2012, 09:37 AM
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#71
03-08-2012, 07:33 PM
#72
03-08-2012, 08:43 PM
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#73
03-08-2012, 11:11 PM
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I've ordered tubing from lots of places including Leisure Pro. I've always recieved continuous lengths though. Lucky I guess because I would have been bummed if I was surprised by shorter lengths. Lots of guys have and have dealt with it fine.
If you can find a local medical supply store, that is a great option. They might be the least expensive and you can be guaranteed of a single length.
#74
03-09-2012, 10:43 AM
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#75
03-13-2012, 12:11 PM
Elder User
Door Seal Mod for Super Cab
This will cover only the difference of the super cab doors.
Please refer to Epic's video first, as that will explain how to get the kick strip and seal off the main body of the vehicle.
I did try soapy water at first but it dried too fast to get the fish tape through the seal so I used WD80. Also this seal is about 8-10 feet longer than on a crew cab and it gets a bit tough near the end, so a helper is a must.
One difference is the kick strip, which has a grommet at the far end towards back of vehicle.
Closer look - I tried to remove this grommet and it was NOT cooperating so I left it and just pulled the kickstrip up and moved it towards the inside of the truck.
There is also a door latch on the upper part of the opening that you will need to remove the two torx screws for to gain access to the latch.
Loosen the three torx screws enough to get the strip off (do not try to take them all the way out as there is no need to)
Otherwise you end up with this...
That's all there is to the main body. Now here is were the fun starts.
The seal on the rear doors....are not the same as the seal on the main body, so I left it a couple of days for the main seals to seat and ponder what to do.
After closer inspection there is a cavity that is open at both ends, but the diameter is smaller than the main seal. But I thought I would try and put the tube in anyway.
I started by pulling the bottom off of the grommets, you do not need to remove these either.
This is what the opening looks like at the bottom.
Sprayed WD40 (BTW - WD80 is two cans of WD40...) in the top until I saw drips coming out of the bottom on the rag that I placed on the floor prior to adding the lubricant.
The doors are really tight and need to be slammed quite firmy to close properly. So I left them overnight to see how they were in the morning....well I removed the tubing today.
I think I need to go to 3/16"ID x 1/4"OD x 1/32" wall.
Any thoughts?
Please refer to Epic's video first, as that will explain how to get the kick strip and seal off the main body of the vehicle.
I did try soapy water at first but it dried too fast to get the fish tape through the seal so I used WD80. Also this seal is about 8-10 feet longer than on a crew cab and it gets a bit tough near the end, so a helper is a must.
One difference is the kick strip, which has a grommet at the far end towards back of vehicle.
Closer look - I tried to remove this grommet and it was NOT cooperating so I left it and just pulled the kickstrip up and moved it towards the inside of the truck.
There is also a door latch on the upper part of the opening that you will need to remove the two torx screws for to gain access to the latch.
Loosen the three torx screws enough to get the strip off (do not try to take them all the way out as there is no need to)
Otherwise you end up with this...
That's all there is to the main body. Now here is were the fun starts.
The seal on the rear doors....are not the same as the seal on the main body, so I left it a couple of days for the main seals to seat and ponder what to do.
After closer inspection there is a cavity that is open at both ends, but the diameter is smaller than the main seal. But I thought I would try and put the tube in anyway.
I started by pulling the bottom off of the grommets, you do not need to remove these either.
This is what the opening looks like at the bottom.
Sprayed WD40 (BTW - WD80 is two cans of WD40...
) in the top until I saw drips coming out of the bottom on the rag that I placed on the floor prior to adding the lubricant.The doors are really tight and need to be slammed quite firmy to close properly. So I left them overnight to see how they were in the morning....well I removed the tubing today.
I think I need to go to 3/16"ID x 1/4"OD x 1/32" wall.
Any thoughts?
