Oxygen Sensors
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Oxygen Sensors
Hey everyone! 1st let me start off by saying this website is awesome! I finally found some people that love their Fords as I do! I have a 98 F150 and I just got a new engine installed at 166K. Evrything is working great, but sometimes when I come to a stop, she "idles rough."
My friend who installed the engine pluged in the code reader and found O2 sensors are bad. (Thats what the computer says) I looked online and found some BOSCH sensors, are these good? Should i look into others? Also, could the sensors cause the "rough idling?"
Oh, 1 other thing, somehow my fill tube where my gas cap sits, chipped. I am also getting a EVAP code from the gas cap. Are the fill tubes easy to replace, or is it going to be a pain? Thanks, Chris
My friend who installed the engine pluged in the code reader and found O2 sensors are bad. (Thats what the computer says) I looked online and found some BOSCH sensors, are these good? Should i look into others? Also, could the sensors cause the "rough idling?"
Oh, 1 other thing, somehow my fill tube where my gas cap sits, chipped. I am also getting a EVAP code from the gas cap. Are the fill tubes easy to replace, or is it going to be a pain? Thanks, Chris
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From: SE Wyoming
The stock sensors are Bosch and almost every replacement is as well. It will depend on which sensor could be bad in relation to running. I would also suspect a vacuum leak and it would help a lot more to know the actual code #.
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Oxygen Sensor
Great thanks for the help. I am just going to change both sensors, and see if that helps the problem. Although I don't have a code reader, though I want one. Got any ideas on what a good brand is to buy and where to buy?
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Welcome to the board.
Take some advice right away.
You are guessing at problems right off the bat.
Those sensors will cost you more than a reader and may not be the problem.
Get a reader first or get the codes read, than act on the code discription.
The codes do not tell you what part to replace, only report there is an issue.
Good luck.
Take some advice right away.
You are guessing at problems right off the bat.
Those sensors will cost you more than a reader and may not be the problem.
Get a reader first or get the codes read, than act on the code discription.
The codes do not tell you what part to replace, only report there is an issue.
Good luck.
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If your going to buy a scanner - look at getting a gauge pod. It will allow you to monitor a lot of functions such as engine coolant temp, transmission fluid temp, MPG, etc... They will also scan for codes and allow you to clear codes. Work on any/all newer vehicles.
Several brands exist.
Scangauge II is one that sells for around $150.00 (this is the one I have).
UltraGauge (UltraGauge Automotive Information Center and OBDII Scan Tool) is another one that looks good and sells for $39.95 right now.
I would buy the ultra gauge if I was you. That would give you a code reader and a monitor device all in one and can be used in any vehicle you own.
By the way - sounds like a vacuum leak instead of an O2 sensor. Vacuum leaks will/can indicate a lean condition and set an O2 sensor code.
Several brands exist.
Scangauge II is one that sells for around $150.00 (this is the one I have).
UltraGauge (UltraGauge Automotive Information Center and OBDII Scan Tool) is another one that looks good and sells for $39.95 right now.
I would buy the ultra gauge if I was you. That would give you a code reader and a monitor device all in one and can be used in any vehicle you own.
By the way - sounds like a vacuum leak instead of an O2 sensor. Vacuum leaks will/can indicate a lean condition and set an O2 sensor code.
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My friend had a scanner and plugged it in and it came up that my O2 sensor was bad. But, i do notice that I dont have cruse control, which I know that the cruse control works with the vacuum system. Any ideas how to troubleshoot to see if I have a vacuum leak? Or where that vacuum leak could be?
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Easiest way to find a vacuum leak is to take a piece of hose and put one end to your ear and fish around the engine area with the other end. When you come close to a leak - you can hear it very clear.
You really need to post the code # so we know what your getting. You do realize there are more than 1 O2 sensors on this vehicle. O2 sensor does not tell us much.
You really need to post the code # so we know what your getting. You do realize there are more than 1 O2 sensors on this vehicle. O2 sensor does not tell us much.
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Get a scantool that can look at live data. The parts store budget units can't do that. The parts store units are just code readers, but you can only do so much with codes alone. A scantool can read live sensor data, graph it out, record it, etc. It gives you a lot of really powerful tools. It can detect vacuum leaks, not directly, but it can indicate them. Typically vacuum leaks produce a high LTFT at idle, and a lower LTFT value as RPMs increase (the leak contributes less when the throttle is open)
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JL
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Prod, your not listening!
The reader did not tell you or anyone else the OXs are faulty. If it did, the reader is marketing missleading info for FORD .
What are the codes?
Your cruise control does not use vacuum for any part of it's operation.
It's PCM controlled for speed set, with inputs from the steerring wheel, brake switches and horn for quick braking release..
If you want help, give accurate info, feed back and listen to the help that is offered based on that info.
The reader did not tell you or anyone else the OXs are faulty. If it did, the reader is marketing missleading info for FORD .
What are the codes?
Your cruise control does not use vacuum for any part of it's operation.
It's PCM controlled for speed set, with inputs from the steerring wheel, brake switches and horn for quick braking release..
If you want help, give accurate info, feed back and listen to the help that is offered based on that info.
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From: kitchener ont. Canada
O2 codes usually mean vacuum leaks, or a lean code can some times be fixed by cleaning the map senser.(this fixed my last codes).
For cruise control, check the pressure switch attached to the master cylander (and the fuse in the harness that ford replaced in a recent recall)
if either is wet the fuse will probably be blown and both need to be replaced.
For cruise control, check the pressure switch attached to the master cylander (and the fuse in the harness that ford replaced in a recent recall)
if either is wet the fuse will probably be blown and both need to be replaced.
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Thanks everyone for your help and feedback! When I saw the error codes i thought it was just an O2 sensor, I had no clue there was more to it! I'm headed out to get the codes and let you guys know, thanks
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