I've just inherited a 78 Ford F150 Ranger, V8 5.8L, 351M, about 100k original miles.

The truck took a 7hr drive to get to my place, and had troubles on the way. First, it took a couple turns of the key to start. Then about 3 hrs into the drive, I stopped for gas. After fueling, it wouldn't start. Then engine wouldn't turn over. I am only using the side tank, as the rear isn't of use. I had to get it towed, and the guy got it to start after saying a fuel line was "hampered". He also mentioned I may need to get a new carburetor.

Once home, I had trouble starting it again. I was last able to start it and it ran for about 3-5 min, then just died. I cant get it to start at all since then.

I noticed several things were old or corroded. I installed a new battery and new battery cables. I also changed out the spark plugs, and the fuel filters (one was attached to the fuel line under the truck.) Once that stuff was done, it still wouldn't start. Now all that happens is "click click click click" when I turn the key. So, the starter solenoid appears to work, but even when I bridge the gap with the "screwdriver" method, it doesn't turn over.

I am new to this do it yourself engine work, but feel confident I can work on it given the right steps.

What would you suggest be my next step?
I was planning on taking the starter off to be tested, but will try to clean all the wiring and terminals first. Eventually I plan to replace both gas tanks and fuel lines.

Thanks!

 

First it sounds like your battery is dead. Make sure all the battery cable connections are clean and tight, then get your battery charged.
I would pull the alternator and get it tested. If it checks okay look at the voltage regulator.
Did the truck sit for a long time? If yes, you may have fuel issues also.

 

It's a brand new battery and cables, all tight. I also tried to jump start it with another car, but it didn't help, so I don't think it is the battery.

 

The click,click,click is the classic symptom of either a low battery or a bad connection.
If the starter is locked up, and the battery is charged, the solenoid would click once untill the key is released.
I think you have charging system issues that need to be fixed, then probably some fuel related issues too.

 

I thought the clicking was indicative of a low or dead battery, and a jump has always helped on other vehicles I've had. I pulled the starter anyway as well as the starter cable. I will get those replaced, less than $100. I may not need to, but it doesn't hurt, and it is fun learning how it all comes together.
I will try a different battery next.
What charging issues would you consider, aside from checking out the alt and battery?
Thanks

 

Listen to Mike on this one. I install 4-6 batteries a day. He is right on the money. It either battery or cables or connections.

 

[quote=jp66]What charging issues would you consider, aside from checking out the alt and battery?[quote]
The first thing I would check doesn't cost anything. Make sure the alt. belt is tight. Then get the alternator tested. If it checks okay I'd replace the regulator. Also check the condition of the wiring between the alternator, regulator and solenoid.
Just a note, if you have a voltmeter you can check the alternator yourself.
With the engine off battery voltage should be around 12v, with the engine running the voltage should jump to around 14.5v.
If it doesn't change or drops the alternator is bad.

 

Have you changed out the voltage regulator? On newer models the alternator has this built into it. Our trucks have it separate. Which I always thought was a good thing. It's a small box mounted to the firewall.

They're around ~$20. Growing up, my dad use to buy them 2 at a time. Always kept one in the glove box. There was more that one occasion where we had to change it out in some parking lot. Quick fix.

Now, I always keep one in my glove box.

 

Just curious, how does a spare regulator get you out of the parking lot? If the charging system has failed to charge the battery, one would assume "failed" is measured by the truck not starting. In that case, it's difficult to establish what went wrong with a charging system when it's not running. The most conclusive way to monitor a charging system is with the truck running, which makes no-start situations very hard to diagnose. If for some reason it can be established that the regulator was indeed the problem, even replacing it won't get the truck started - you'd at least need a jump.

The only reason I'm bringing this up is because one should be careful not to assume that just because replacing a part corrected the short-term problem, then the original part must have been the cause. It's not always so. Perhaps the old regulator was fine, but just moving the wiring harness or letting the system cool off while replacing it was what solved the problem. My point is, be careful when throwing money at your truck. The best time to replace something is when you have solid, conclusive measurements (from a multimeter or bench tester for example) that suggest something is bad. Just because something is cheap and easy to replace doesn't always warrant replacing it because it will "probably fail anyway."

That's just my opinion; I respect yours just the same.

As a side note, internally regulated alternators are far superior to what is in our trucks. The external regulators are electromechanical so they're less accurate, slower to react, and can wear out more quickly. They're essentially controlled by a slug moving in and out of a coil. Having the regulator several inches from the alternator also opens room for problems with the wiring harness in between as well as grounding issues. Internal regulators are electronic and feature far less room for failure.

 

check the ground cable connection really good. Should be grounded to a stud on the engine, pull the nut, brush the stud with wire brush, same for the connection end on the cable, put it back on nice & tight.

best battery in the world with all the boost it can handle isn't going to spin your starter if the ground is bad.

 

Something I can add to this that will most likely help in the long run:

Do an alternator upgrade if you're concerned about your alternator. Search "3G upgrade" in the search engine on this forum and you'll find lots of help and information as to what you can do for yourself and your truck. Basically, you can save yourself a lot of the hassles that fmc400 was talking about by doing an alternator upgrade because it's just as I said, an upgrade.

Here is something else that I can hand off to you as a form of my type of help. It's simple and easy to use (if you've got good eye sight).

This should help you through your daily wiring woes:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...r-diagram.html

That's about all the help I can give you besides the advice of investing in a multimeter (as already mentioned by others).

It's saved me a lot of trouble, and when you think about it... What's easier? Changing out an alternator for $100-200 (new), or checking to see that it's just fine with a multimeter ($50)? You tell me. Lol.

 

Check you ground cable, then go over all the other ones. It doesn't take much to cause the click you hear. Just because you think that ****s good and tight doesn't mean it is. Also get a v reading off the battery. Also I'd go ahead and change all the fluids and rebuilt the carb, my guess with 100k on it, it's sat for a while.

 

id check connections going to the solenoid, i had the same "clicking" noise earlier today and the ground wire was loose on the solenoid.

 

I would have to agree with all of the above information, check those grounds, and make sure they are VERY clean. As was said get yourself a multi tester, vacuum guage, and a timing light, and it will take you far. If you are in need of those tools, I would suggest you go to Harbor Freight, they can be your friend when working on a denside.

When you get a chance, tell us the back story on your dent, and welcome to the forum. Those guys that posted before me know what they are talking about, and have been a lot of help to me in the past. If you have a carb problem, ask fmc400, (Jeff) is more than happy to help get your problem solved. He is VERY knowledable on the subject. He will take the time and have you perform a few test, and he will walk you through your problems and you will be up and running in no time.

Welcome aboard again, and post some pictures when you get a chance. If you don't know how, just ask, someone will post the instructions in short order.

 

Thanks for the info guys.
I will get a chance to work on it later this weekend.
I will also post some pics later too.