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AC compressor turning on and off.

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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 02:53 PM
  #1  
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AC compressor turning on and off.

When I am at idle, the compressor keeps turning on and off every few seconds. It seems to work fine while driving. What do I need to do to fix this?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 03:05 PM
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Sounds to me like its low on freon. The a/c will always be colder driving down the road and if the clutch is kicking on and off all the time you may not notice that its low because it will still be somewhat cool. That would be where I would start. Check and make sure its charged up first.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by V8Ranger302
Sounds to me like its low on freon. The a/c will always be colder driving down the road and if the clutch is kicking on and off all the time you may not notice that its low because it will still be somewhat cool. That would be where I would start. Check and make sure its charged up first.
I'll check to be sure it's charged. How do I check to make sure it's charged?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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You might have to take it to a shop . Or you can go buy a can of freon that has the hose all ready attached to the can and put some in. Some of them have a gauge on them to tell you if its full. You can put a little in and see if the pump stays on. You would notice that right away. The hose on the can will only fit the one a/c line where you need to put it in.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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Thanks for the help. I'll get a can with the hose and see what I have.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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the best way is to get a auto ac thermonter $5. fill with freon until it gets to the proper temp on the thermometer. if it is really low you will have to jump the compressor so it stays on as you fill the system.....
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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Also note, that under wide open throttle the a/c pump will disengage. When putting some freon in, sometimes you need to give it a little throttle. Hold the RPM's up to about 1200 to 1500. It will help suck in the freon. Don't over fill it. If you get to much in, its libel to blow it out the pressure valve on the pump. Not a big deal, you will probably have to add some back in again. The valve will shut off when the pressure drops back down. It will scare the crap out of thats for sure....
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by V8Ranger302
Also note, that under wide open throttle the a/c pump will disengage. When putting some freon in, sometimes you need to give it a little throttle. Hold the RPM's up to about 1200 to 1500. It will help suck in the freon. Don't over fill it. If you get to much in, its libel to blow it out the pressure valve on the pump. Not a big deal, you will probably have to add some back in again. The valve will shut off when the pressure drops back down. It will scare the crap out of thats for sure....
good point i forgot that part.when i did mine i held it at 2k and checked the temp......you stick the thermometer right in the ac vent!
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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PLEASE go to the HVAC forum and read the FAQs posted there. Although written for the F-series, they usually apply to the rest of Ford's vehicles as well.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
PLEASE go to the HVAC forum and read the FAQs posted there. Although written for the F-series, they usually apply to the rest of Ford's vehicles as well.
Yes, I second this! That forum did a world of good for my a/c.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 08:17 AM
  #11  
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Thanks guys. I will look at that forum and see what I can do. I do have thermometer and will put it in a vent and drive it around and see what it is. What should the temp be coming out of the vents?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 08:30 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by miller_feed
Thanks guys. I will look at that forum and see what I can do. I do have thermometer and will put it in a vent and drive it around and see what it is. What should the temp be coming out of the vents?
if you have the right thermometer it should have a small mark on it at about 40. as posted earlier just idle the car at 2k with the ac on high and the thermoeter should read around 40/45. in theory you can recharge without a gauge just use the thermometer when you are at around 40 stop. to much freon will work in reverse and the temp will be higher.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:33 AM
  #13  
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I'm about to take it for a ride with a meat thermometer stuck in the vent.

I noticed I didn't say this is on my '97 Ranger. lol
 
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Old Jul 24, 2015 | 12:59 AM
  #14  
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So, to bring a dead horse back to life. My air gap is good .028-ish, turns on and off constantly. I took apart the whole clutch, cleaned everything good, made sure to put the spacers back in and same thing, same gap, same problem! Noteworthy. I changed the Idler pulley, tensioner pulley as well.

EDIT:
1) does the clutch spin free with your hand with the same resistance when its off? or does it get tight, then loose as you turn it. Maybe that is my problem. I have it get tight, then i can force it to get lose again. Compressor messed up?
2)what did the 1993 F250 5.0L engine have from the factory, R12?


BTW: Video I found on youtube that might help future people... but please answer my questions
 
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Old Jul 24, 2015 | 07:53 AM
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1. It's normal to feel alternating resistance. That's the compressor doing it's job of compressing.

2. 93 was a year of transition for Ford. They used BOTH types across their product lines.

Look for the under hood decal for the refrigerant information from the factory (if it's still present and legible). Also, look at the refrigerant service ports. R12 used screw-on connectors, R134a uses quick disconnect type connectors. An R12 vehicle that was converted to R134a will have adapters installed on the old ports.

Did you read the FAQs?
 
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