My 91 Explorer has suffered "black death" as I've been told. Which means when the compressor goes, if you don't replace it right away, the whole system gets contaminated. So... fixing the A/C is quoted as pretty much replacing all the system components. Ughh!!! The mechanic is saying about $1000. There's gotta be a better (cheaper) way???

 

Nope! Unless you can buy the parts and install them yourself. Then have a shop evacuate and charge the system.
If it's actually Black Death it totals the entire system except for the evaporator (which must be solvent flushed well).
Some careful junkyard shopping might turn up the hoses and condenser, but the accumulator, orifice and compressor must be purchased new. Donor parts should come from a vehicle with intact AC, preferably one that still holds a charge.
Your old "Black Death" compressor was an FX-15. All of the replacements are now the much more reliable FS-10

 

Would some of the parts off a junkyard "newer model" Explorer be better to look for?

 

You "might" be able to use 1993-4 or later parts for an R134a system. You'll need to look at the parts in the yard and compare them to yours, I've never actually compared them.
If the evaporator connections are the same, it should work. New compressor and accumulator would still apply. The hose routing may be different, so make sure it will work on your truck.
The newer system will have a High Pressure cutout switch. It should be wired into your existing compressor circuit.

Edit: BTW, does your Explorer have a rear AC unit? I don't recall if any of them did or not, but that would complicate matters.
If you only have the vents at the rear of the center console, you only have the front AC system.

 

my explorer only has front A/C.
Would an R134a system be better than replacing stock?

 

What if I just change out the compressor, then take it to a shop and have them charge it? Might I get a few seasons out of it, or instant failure?

 

Might get one season, but it won't work well.

The bottom line is, you either replace it, or learn to live without AC, or spend a bunch of money not quite fixing it right, then making your wallet lighter and still having to learn to live without AC.

 

And IF I go junkyarding for the parts, it will be a mystery as to whether the salvage parts are in good condition.

 

1991 through 1993 at least were R12 originally...maybe even later. My 1993 came R12. I was in the same boat here with a failed compressor and do I convert to 134 or go cheap and stay, paying through the nose for someone else to charge the R12 (need a liscence for that).

I got a couple more years this way, 2 compressors later.

The third time, just last year, I replaced everything and went to R134. There was still a learning curve. The suction/pressure line is all one piece and connects to the back of the compressor with a single bolt. On the back of this is a pressure releif valve. The new line did not have this adjusting screw tight enough and I spewed freon, oil and green die all over the firewall untill I tightened this up.

Then, the cheap made in China condensor unit sprung a leak at the tube to discounect fitting weld. Nothing I could do to fix that since I had no arc welder. Not sure that braising would hold. So I got the original 1993 Ford condensor and power washed the outside and cleaned the inside with AC cleaner. Soaped it out and ran water though it for about 4 hours. Then I hit it with the air compressor for about 2 hours straight.

Reassembled everyting including the radiator/hoses and dried out the entire system for 6 hours on the vac pump ented from autozone. Once I got it charged up this time it has been great.

I was afraid the R134a wouldn't touch the R12 coldness but I was wrong. It is colder then the R12 ever was. I think the new evap core had a lot to do with it as my old one was clogged with dirt and leaves. So to say you don't need to change this...at least remove it and clean it. Also don't forget to replace the orifice tube on the inlet of the evap core...this is key to good freon flow.

I think I paid maybe $400 total for all the parts, freon...for the conversion. But now I can charge it myself for next to nothing...though in 2 years, no need to recharge it yet.

Last thing, I also switch to an electric fan. Removed the fan clutch entirely. Used a unit made for a 4.6L mustang...works pretty good and runs all the time the AC is on so even at idle in traffic, it blows cold in the 113 degree Phoenix heat.

 

That's why I mentioned "Donor parts should come from a vehicle with intact AC, preferably one that still holds a charge." Junkyard parts are always a crapshoot, but they are the only alternative to buying new.

Have you shopped around to see what new parts would cost? I would guess about $500. That would obviously be the best route and would still be half the price you were quoted.

 

Sounds like a new R134a system is the way to go. I will check prices on parts. I'm afraid anything I find in a junkyard would just be a huge ??? as to wether it was good or not.

 

I own a 1998 Explorer XLT.
2 years ago I replaced all the flexible lines, dryer, high pressure switch and had the system "properly" evacuated and filled by my local dealer.
Was ~$1,000.00 for everything.
AC has never run correctly on max AC position even after Fords repair.
I just checked the price of a new compressor last week. Fords price is about $300.00 for a new compressor. Reason I checked was because in the 100 degree heat I wasn't getting the cooling I expected after having all the previous work done. Had the same Ford dealer hook up their machine to check the system. They told me it was a little overcharged.
Odd seeing how they did all the work. System was pumped out and refilled and I left the shop.
Cooling in the 100 degree days still about the same.
Been hearing a weird wheezing noise coming from under the hood after shutting off the engine for the last few weeks. Opened hood to replace hood struts, tired of getting hit in the head. Discovered a vacuum line on the passenger side of engine bay that was broken in two. Thought it might be the wheezing noise. Got a piece of tubing to reconnect the broken line. Well what do you know? Now the AC will operate on "max AC" correctly. And now the cooling is much better than ever before, even before Fords repair. So I am going to run it like it is for awhile. Appears that the compressor was fine all along, Fords techs just don't seem to repair items "completely."
The compressor does have a continous clicking sound which normal?
Anybody?

 

Check your local C/L for a R134 equipped beater and if it's cheap enough and it blows cold enough buy it. Then transfer all the parts to your truck and have cold air. Sell the remains to someone else for parts or to a junk yard. You might even make a profit if you can get it cheap enough.

 

^ +1 for what he said.