track bar bushings
#1
track bar bushings
looking for a little of basic information on these to help with my vibration I've been chasing forever now, local advance auto has moog poly bushings for $20 I was thinking about picking them up and replacing mine I cannot see much inside the trackbar eyelets where the bushings are but the didnt look too worn, I'm also going to call and have my driveshaft balanced, see if my rear drums are turnable and can be salvaged and then do new shoes and springs
#2
The bushings don't have to be worn to cause bad ride, they only need to be soft - if you have any oil on yours, chances are it's eaten its way into the rubber and turned it into mush by now. Also yes, poly is the way to go for steering and axle-locating components, hell I think every single rubber bushing in the chassis should be poly.
#4
It's quite possible they will give you hell on their way out, especially if they're molded to steel sleeves that are then pressed into the trac bar. Best way of removing rubber bushings I've found out so faris burning them off, the oxy-acetylene outfit works awesome for this task, but MAPP gas torch like what you can buy at Lowe's does a decent job too.
#7
LCAM-01xa this is what I planned on purchasing Worthington Pro Grade 14.1 oz. MAP/Pro - 308432 at The Home Depot, and I found the pencil tip nozzle for it for $13 some dollars
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#9
I tried everything and the proper application of heat combined with a large hammer and punch worked well.... but that was the easy part!
If your new bushings are two piece.... getting the two piece bushings and the metal sleeve in place proved challenging. I pressed them in by lubricating them with silicone and dropping them in a large vice. Getting the metal sleeve through was the hardest as it wanted to catch on the seam between the two piece bushing. It took some playing but silicone lube and even pressure worked well.
From there getting the bar back in place with the new bushings was tough but once it was done = no more shake!
Good luck!
If your new bushings are two piece.... getting the two piece bushings and the metal sleeve in place proved challenging. I pressed them in by lubricating them with silicone and dropping them in a large vice. Getting the metal sleeve through was the hardest as it wanted to catch on the seam between the two piece bushing. It took some playing but silicone lube and even pressure worked well.
From there getting the bar back in place with the new bushings was tough but once it was done = no more shake!
Good luck!
#10
thanks hand clutch, let me ask you something, how did your bushings look that made you replace them? or for that matter what was the clue that made you replace them, I had a driveshaft U joint incident today and spent my afternoon in a chevy dealer lot and walking to and from the parts store so I was not able to get to it today, but I kicked the daylights out of the trackbar with my boots on and it didnt move very much and also didnt have oil or greasy residue near it, just alot of rust
#11
I agree with LCAM go polly on EVERYTHING! You can get the complete suspension and body set for under $200. Check out PROTHANE 62027 Total Kit
#12
#14
There was no doubt mine needed replaced, I had the death wobble at low speeds when I hit bumps.... it was enough to shake the steering wheel right out of your hand and it required a complete stop to save yourself! I noticed it the first time I drove the truck. I could actually move the entire track bar with my hand!
Fixing the track bar took the death wobble away and it handles nice now. If I try to grab, kick, or move the track bar now the entire truck moves as it should. Since those bushings were bad, I can only imagine what the rest are like so to agree totally with LCAM and WarOzz, I intend on doing the entire system with poly! Can't help ya with the bolt size, mine were actually decent (unbelievably decent) and I re-used them.
Let us know how it goes!
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oldguard60
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
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11-23-2013 05:50 AM