Hello to all - needing some advice from the experts here on the forum.

Putting my truck back together after finally getting some custom paint done (4 yrs later, lol). I remember that the truck ran hot, which doesn't surprise me. It's got the original radiator that probably needs to be re-cored or rodded out (do they even do that anymore?). Heck, I don't even know if I've got the std cooling (2-row) or extra-cooling (3-row) On top of that, it's missing the fan shroud. The only thing I know is good is the water pump (replaced with FlowKooler) and the thermal fan clutch.

So, I've decided to upgrade the cooling system. I've always wanted an electric fan setup so I started searching around. After looking at several high-$ setups, I settled on getting a Lincoln Mark VIII fan. Like $50 off of eBay! Core dimensions for the original radiator are 26" x 19" and the shroud on this fan (w/ mtg tabs cut off) comes to 21-5/8" x 18-1/2". So, with the fan portion taken care of, I now need to select a new radiator. Here are the choices I've came up with, along with my understanding of the pro's and con's:

• Option #1 - "HeatBuster" "Extra-Cooling" Radiator - NPD F-8005-2302 - $444.95 - Core Size: 26" x 19" - Copper/Brass - This is similar to the old trick of upgrading to the "4-row" radiators. However, now they are using "high-efficiency" 3-row cores, which they claim cool better than a std 4-row. This option is desirable because it is EXACTLY the same size as the rad I have now (excluding thickness). The new fan will fit relatively well on this rad with approx 81% core coverage. Downsides include being the less-efficient Copper/Brass material and being the 2nd most expensive option here.

• Option #2 - "HeatBuster" Super-Cooling Radiator - NPD F-8005-2306 - $403.95 - Core Size: 26" x 24" - Copper/Brass - Again, a 3-row "high-efficiency" design, but upsized. Major pro is that this big dawg has the most surface area of ANY option out there, approximately 26% more than its nearest competitor. Cons includes still high cost and fan shroud coverage of a paltry 64% (well below the 80% guideline).

• Option #3 - eBay Aluminum Down Flow Radiator - FORD PU TRUCK 1976 1977 5.9L V8 ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR: eBay Motors (item 300415476243 end time Sep-04-10 12:55:00 PDT) - $250 shipped - Core Size: 26" x 19" - Aluminum - Basically, an extra-cooling sized radiator in a 2-row aluminum version (think aluminum option #1). Apparently, Al is supposed to be more efficient than a similarly-sized 4-row Cu/Brass radiator. If this is true, then this radiator would be great because it would have cooling efficiency on par with option #1, but at a fraction of the cost. Downsides include questionable eBay quality. I know at least one member here has this exact setup (fan included) so please chime in.

• Option #4 - Be-Cool Cross-Flow Conversion 60025 - $500 - Be Cool 60025 - Be Cool Custom-Fit Aluminum Radiators - Overview - SummitRacing.com - Core Size: 22" x 18" - Aluminum - This rad fits absolutely perfectly (almost 100% core coverage) with the fan I ordered, plus it has the benefit of being a cross-flow conversion (see more discussion below). Major downside is that cross-flow conversion actually REDUCES core size by approx 20%. Be-Cool guidelines say a max HP of only 350, which I am already above. Also, this is the most expensive option.

SOOO, the cheap and easy option is to just go with option #3. $250 for an aluminum radiator that will bolt right in. Cooling performance should be decent, definitely at least as good as I have now. And, the fan fits relatively well, with roughly 2" gaps on the sides. Here's an idea of how well it would fit:


However, I am still just struggling with it being a down-flow radiator. If I had my choice I'd prefer a cross-flow, which brings me to the Be-Cool radiator.

Okay, I was kinda leaning towards the Be-Cool, mainly because it's a cross-flow. Could run the recovery tank fine and wouldn't have to worry about forcing coolant past. Also, Be Cool's reputation is quite good, though I don't know how true that is with the Ford truck crowd. Like stated above, my main concern here is that the cross-flow conversion actually reduces core size. Does the performance increase make this irrelevant?

So, what do you guys think is my best bet? I run A/C religiously and here in WY we regularly break into triple digits in the summer months. What are you guys running? How well is it working? Anyone running a recovery tank with the down-flow? Anyone have a cross-flow conversion? Here are some other things to consider:

• I absolutely want to run a recovery tank. The main reason is I believe they are easier to maintain and improves cooling system performance by continually purging air and maintaining the absolute highest cooling system capacity possible. The recovery tank I am looking at is a Canton (www.cantonracingproducts.com - 80-201 - ALUMINUM RECOVERY TANK 1/4" N.P.T. SIDE & BOTTOM PORT 2 QT. CAPACITY) which has a sight tube on the side. Therefore, all I have to do is look at the recovery tank once in a while to determine if I need to add coolant. I don't know how well this works (or if it even DOES work) with a down flow rad. And yes, I mean RECOVERY tank, not a CATCH CAN.

• I am planning on switching to Evans Waterless Coolant, so I don't know how that plays in. Pressure is no longer needed to prevent overheating (boils at 370*F at 0 psig), so they say that you can reduce your cooling system pressure (get a lower pressure cap). Less pressure = less wear and tear, apparently. However, my fear is that if I used a downflow radiator and reduce my system pressure, this would exacerbate the problem of forcing coolant past the cap at higher RPM's. Experience anyone?

Note, I confined my search to direct-fit options only. There are countless universal rads out there, but I don't want to have to deal with mounting system fab.

Thanks in advance for all of your help!

 

Look into the top of the radiator fill neck and count the rows front to back of the radiator. This will tell you Std cooling or extra cooling 2 vs 3 row. I just use the big radiator that was an option in these trucks. Be sure to use a high flow thermostat. Not sure about the recovery system on a down flow.

 

I'm definitely going for the Mark VIII fan too, after having read that recent thread. I would be interested to see what the recommendations will be based on your well spelled out choices. I like cheap, but have no experience to advise you

 

Why is my picture in your thread?

Josh

 

I got a big three-row radiator from a local shop (called, appropriately, "The Radiator Shoppe") for $300. The guy said aluminum radiators are harder/more expensive to repair if something goes wrong since you can't just braze them.

Recovery tank models don't matter, it's just a bottle with hose connections at top & bottom. I mounted a bicycle water bottle carrier to the radiator support & just stuck a bottle in there with the two lines. First attempt didn't go so well- i used a soda bottle & the hot radiator fluid made it crumple. Cheap aluminum water bottle from the dollar store + 2 tire valves works nicely, though. Anything actually made for this purpose should work fine.

Remember to run properly rated relays/fuses for the fan and the right gauge wire. An indicator light to let you know when it's on isn't a terrible idea, at least for a while, saves a lot of second-guessing.

As a side note, here's a shot of my current setup, running dual fans from a 1995 Nissan Altima which I'm very happy with. This is just the "test fit," a piece of aluminum flat stock run from the upper radiator mounting points will align nicely with the bolt points on the fan housing. I ran out of 8ga wire, hence the twisted yellow-and-green in the back.