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Anyone out there have a 12 volt tempature guage that will fit a 1952 F1 truck that you would like to part with. It looks like I may have burned mine up or something else is wrong. Traced the wires down and it still doesn't work.
Have you verified it is the gauge... remove wire at the sending unit. Turn on key; DO NOT start engine
Ground this wire to engine. Does the gauge read Hot, if so then it is time to replace the temperature sending unit. If no reading check fuse; if fuse is good, check for voltage with voltmeter. If no voltage then it is because of some damage in the circuit between the ignition key & gauge or fuse panel & gauge temperature.
Is that the one I just sent you and calibrated to read 170 degrees?
After over 131 posts of simple instructions and explanations in 6 threads still can't correctly connect a reduced 6 volt gauge to the two sending units with 3 wires?
Absolutely unbelievable!
tip 49, no need to start all over. If he doesn't "get it" by now he's never going to get it - see below!
Yes Julie it is the same guage that you sent me. The truck set up for about two weeks and now the guage stays on hot and doesn't move to cold when key is turned on. I have put about six different sending units in at 50.00 a pop so I can't beleive it is that all is bad that I am getting. Pulled the guage out and looked at it and it looks to be fine to me. I have not had the time to do what tip49 has suggested me to do yet. I am by myself and son should be over Monday or Tuesday and we will try that. One thing I have noticed it that the screws don't seem to get tite on the sending units I have been getting. One good news is that I did get the fan schoud installed on the truck. There is a reducer on the large guage itself and all the other guages work fine. I have read and reread all the threads that you and I have had between each other. My son and I traced the wire from the sending unit to the guage and it seems fine. Don't see any breaks or lose wire connections except on the screws on the sending unit it self. I guess they don't need to be that tight to work. I guess I don't know my own strenght when tighting them and they seem to strip out. I am going to run a new wire to the double unit just to see if there is a break in the orignal wire that we can't see.
yes I have a multimeter I am not sure how to use it but my son-in -law does and we checked the voltage and it jumps around. I took the wire off the sending unit the double one and grounded it to the engine and the temp guage went to cold like it should. Hooked it back up and did the other sender (single one) and again the temp guage went to cold. At the ceramic reducer that is hooked to the coil reads 3.35 but at the coil it read 8.6. all with the key on. With the key on we checked the double post sender both post and the meter was flucating without a good constant reading. The battery reads 12.35 volts. So the guage is good it would apear to me that it is working right. No bad guage. When both sending units are hooked up the guage doesn't move off hot. My son in law will be here tomorrow again so what should I check with the multimeter next?
To tell you the truth Larry, there are limitations on how much help you can get over the internet. Sometimes just being able to cast an eyeball on the car is worth 1,000 posts. I think you ought to print up some of the schematics on the old threads, and take it to an auto electrician, and be done with it. There may be other electrical problems he spots that are contributing to this problem.
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