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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 02:12 PM
  #1  
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lbrauer
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Flathead buddies

I'm still having a problem with the trucks temputure being to high. Julie sent me a temp gauge and it would only go half way to cold when key was turned on so she said I may have 12 volt temp sending units in the truck instead of 6 volts and she was right. The temp gauge works like it should now with it going all the way to cold when key is turned on and climbs back up when the truck is running but it climbs to darn high. I mean up to the last mark on the gauge so I still think something else is wrong. I had the radiator rodded out and there looks like there is good flow. I put in new theromstats on both sides thinking it was the problem. I'm used to the temp gauge being at least on the half way mark. I think running on the last mark on the gauge is to darn hot to be running down the road. I don't want to crack the block or a head being so hot. I was thinking about a electric fan added to the radiator would help but don't know a thing about those and how they hook up. Has anyone got any suggestions on what might be wrong or how to fix this problem. Oh yes this is on a flathead 8 with 8ab heads on a 52 F1.

Thanks as always,
Larry Brauer
713-410-7481
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 02:21 PM
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Test your thermostats in a pan of hot water. Two brand new thermostats that I bought for a 302 and were stamped 194 wouldn't open at all in boiling water. 3rd one popped wide open immediately.

Do you have a shroud?

Timing is critical on flatheads and too much advance results in high temps. Set your timing to the ball on the front pulley with vacuum disconnected from the distributor.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 03:51 PM
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I still say unless you know what the temperature really is in actual number form (ie: degrees fahrenheit), trying to decipher the position of your needle is meaningless. You still could have mis-matched senders or poor calibration on the gauge. Also, since you've changed the gauge and senders, there's no reason to believe the gauge will now read exactly the same as your old stuff did.

Do you have any other overheating symptoms besides gauge needle position that leads you to believe you're truly running too hot? You didn't mention any.

If you really want to eliminate these concerns, get a good quality aftermarket mechanical temp gauge and install that, even if only temporary.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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This is the second set of temp sending units I have put in the engine. last time I put a tempature probe in the radiator and it read 196' to 199' and the gauge was on hot. I do not have a shroud on the radiator. I did check the timing on the engine and it was off so I set it to the ball on the front pully with the vacuum disconnected from the distributor so I know it is right. The truck starts right up without pulling out the choke now that the timing is right. I am goofed on this problem and it makes me nerves to drive it like that. I can go see if I can find a mechaical gauge to put on it I guess that is my next move. The only other thing that makes me beleive it is running to hot is I have had steam coming from the radiator before. What should I do next if the mechaical gauge shows it is really that hot? By the way I have 160' thermostats installed. I have heard and read that 160' to 180 should be used so I had the 160' ones here at the house so I used them. Could that make a difference I would think not. What is a good quality aftermarket gauge and where would I find one. Do you think any auto parts store would carry one and how do you hook one up is it the same as the regular gauge or different?
Thanks for the feed back on this problem and hope to get it fixed soon with you alls help and suggestions.

Larry Brauer
713-410-7481
braular@yahoo.com
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by lbrauer
This is the second set of temp sending units I have put in the engine. last time I put a tempature probe in the radiator and it read 196' to 199' and the gauge was on hot.
That leads me to believe your problem is more mental than physical. That sounds like your engine is running and working perfectly fine. It's your gauge or parts thereof that's the problem.


Originally Posted by lbrauer
I do not have a shroud on the radiator. I did check the timing on the engine and it was off so I set it to the ball on the front pully with the vacuum disconnected from the distributor so I know it is right. The truck starts right up without pulling out the choke now that the timing is right. I am goofed on this problem and it makes me nerves to drive it like that.
That sounds like you're on the right track.


Originally Posted by lbrauer
I can go see if I can find a mechaical gauge to put on it I guess that is my next move.
Sounds like a good plan

Originally Posted by lbrauer
The only other thing that makes me beleive it is running to hot is I have had steam coming from the radiator before.
Before what? What is it doing now?

Originally Posted by lbrauer
What should I do next if the mechaical gauge shows it is really that hot?
Let's take one thing at a time.

Originally Posted by lbrauer
By the way I have 160' thermostats installed. I have heard and read that 160' to 180 should be used so I had the 160' ones here at the house so I used them. Could that make a difference I would think not.
Well, they're in now, let's do our other diagnosis items before worrying about that.


Originally Posted by lbrauer
What is a good quality aftermarket gauge and where would I find one. Do you think any auto parts store would carry one and how do you hook one up is it the same as the regular gauge or different?
Any decent auto parts store should have something that will work. It should come with complete instructions, and not be too difficult to figure out. You've made it this far, I'm sure you can do this. You will want to be careful with the capilary tube attached to the mechaincal gauge. It is not removable. You'll need to thread it through the firewall to the heads.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #6  
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overheating

About 47 years ago I had the same problem, was told to check vacuum advance, that was it. I replaced it with a used one from junkyard and ended overheating. Pete
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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If it is running 190-ish temps with 160 thermostats, something seems wrong. Thermostats upside down? Belts loose? Too lean? WP impeller loose on the shaft? Sticking advance could do it under load, but if everything else is working well, and it idles at the same RPM (advance not stuck) it should cool right down at idle.

If you have the truck fan with big center hub, have you oiled it recently? You fill with a bit of oil, let it soak in for 10 miinutes or so, then turn fan so the hole is facing down, let the excess drip out. (it has an oilite bushing inside that absorbs oil).
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:05 PM
  #8  
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A fan shroud would certainly help - alot.

And now that you have the right senders in (6 volt instead of 12)and the gauge is working properly, when the engine gets to the right operating temp - say 185, if the gauge still reads hot then I will show you how to adjust the gauge so it is right in the middle when at 185! But lets make sure it's not telling you the truth first - and you do have a warm engine.

This isn't a recent rebuild is it (<2000 miles)?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Another method I use is a Infrared Thermometer, you find them most anywhere. What I like about them is you can check for hot spots around your heads, check to see if one bank is hotter then the other and the list goes on. What I like most is it takes the quess work out of it.
 
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