New guy with problems
It could have been going bad and then in the process of moving this here and there it could have gone out completely. I suggest you let the trucks ECU rest for tonight. Disconnect the negative batt. cable and let her sleep. Then tomorrow you bring her the new part. Oh when you install the coil try it without the MSD stuff. Try $650. I was like this...
.
.
Unfortunately that's the way it is. Let's just hope this nightmare ends lol. BTW a ignition coil can have spark but like always if not enough then engine won't start. I've had this situation and it wasn't fun at all. I had spark and fuel and engine wouldn't start and well I was like WTF! Then someone told me to try the ignition coil and it was the solution. See I never thought of that and that's why there is always someone that knows more than us from experience or their superb knowledge.
Before you spend all your money i would have the moduel tested & make sure your getting the right one , the auto store should be able to test it for you , if you havn't checked the wiring yet i would take some time to look at that , look at all your grounds , make sure there clean & tight .....
Where did you get the distributor from?
NO-SPARK DIAGNOSIS
1. If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on.
2. If there is voltage, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, or primary wiring circuit).
3. If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).
4. If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.
NO-SPARK DIAGNOSIS
1. If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on.
2. If there is voltage, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, or primary wiring circuit).
3. If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).
4. If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.
Before you spend all your money i would have the moduel tested & make sure your getting the right one , the auto store should be able to test it for you , if you havn't checked the wiring yet i would take some time to look at that , look at all your grounds , make sure there clean & tight .....
Replaced the distributor again today and it fired right up. Also found out i tore a spark plug boot when i pulled it off while running and it started zapping me. Checked the fuel pressure and have 40psi and 48psi with the vacuum pulled off the regulator. I'm done wasting my time and money. This thing is going to a shop and let them deal with it.
Shop found 2 injectors that weren't firing. Of course they were the ones under the intake. $762 later plus the $300 i already spent it will be running good again. What a pain in the ***.
So there was nothing wrong with the spark just missing cylinders . Well atleast you got it fixed , thats why i was tring to get you to pull plug wires so you can find the missing clylinders , i have an old snap on tach & dwell meter that cancels cylinders one at a time with out pulling the wires , that makes it easyer , pulling the plug wires is old school way if you don't have the tools ....Lew
I tried pulling plug wires and got pissed off after getting electrocuted a couple times. Could barely get the spark plug pliers on them and one had a rip in the boot and was zapping everything including me lol. Should have it back Friday when i can afford to bend over and pay them.


