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Tranny cooler upgrade

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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 03:05 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by mountaineer27
thanks. i think it should still fit with my set up. theres not much room as i have a f600 four core radiator, I/C, and reese hitch up front but i might try it out. if not ill just duck tape it to the hood lol.
YaHoo duck tape to the rescue!!
 
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 07:03 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by mountaineer27
thanks. i think it should still fit with my set up. theres not much room as i have a f600 four core radiator, I/C, and reese hitch up front but i might try it out. if not ill just duck tape it to the hood lol.
You are welcome, and yes it may be fit very tight, and if not the duct tape solution is a golden mine.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 05:31 PM
  #33  
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Don't post here much but have followed this topic. I installed a Tru Cool 4590 cooler at advise of Dale at Tymar as he seems to know our trucks. I was very satisfied with the upgrade. For three years my trans never got over 195 and averaged 170-185 most of the time while towing in hot weather. My load is a 26' enclosed car trailer with drag car, pit trike, & tools & supplies. About a 10-11K load + I carry a truck camper @ about 2,400 #.
Ran into one spot on PA TPK that trans temps got to 210-215 .. . I don't like anything over 200 !!!
So I bought a TruCool Max.. Without camper temps got up to 205-210,dropped trailer and temps stayed at 200 with JUST truck!!!
Sorry...but I yanked the bypass and now all seems good...160-170 with just camper. I'l try with trailer on Monday. I think I recall Dale wanting me to go with 4590 on my 96 was because a thermal bypass is not needed due to cooler design..LPD ?? Thermal bypass MUST be a restriction with 5/16 lines !!?? Possibly 3/8 lines would cure the problem ?
I don't use my truck much in the winter...I will address any cold weather problems then....somehow.

Thanks for all the input..
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 05:48 PM
  #34  
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I've got the bypass on my truck and still have the 5/16 lines. Maybe your bypass was bad? Dont mean to sound like an a$$ but did you put it in the right way?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 06:07 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
I've got the bypass on my truck and still have the 5/16 lines. Maybe your bypass was bad? Dont mean to sound like an a$$ but did you put it in the right way?

Yep..yep..been doing this wrenching stuff for 50+ years now...doesn't mean I can't goof up so your question is logical. Dumb mistake is worse than a dumb question anyday...I double checked valve install as I could see the schematic on valve would disapear quickly.. With empty truck the temps went straight to 180 which I did not mind.....but preferrd my 165-170's with the old 4590 cooler. This 4590 is HALF the size of the Max unit !!!!
When temps climbed to 210+ and stayed there...BP had to Go !!!
I would rather have my trans too cool (?) when empty than 210+ when under load towing !!! NO brainer for me..

What class do you race ??
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 06:26 PM
  #36  
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Just checkin on the hookup, never know. I would guess you had a faulty bypass, again just guessing.

I run in Super Pro NHRA or TOP in IHRA. Part time bracket racing the last few years, trying to save a little $$$$
What class you run?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 08:37 PM
  #37  
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I suspect a restriction in the cooler circuit causing the bypass to open.

The bypass is not there to help warm the trans in cold weather. It is there to maintain lube flow to the rear of the trans if the cooler circuit gets plugged. With the bypass working if the cooler circuit gets restricted you get higher temperatures. If the bypass is gone and the cooler circuit gets restricted you have little or no lube flow to the rear half of the trans. That's not very good for parts that spin!
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 08:57 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
Just checkin on the hookup, never know. I would guess you had a faulty bypass, again just guessing.

I run in Super Pro NHRA or TOP in IHRA. Part time bracket racing the last few years, trying to save a little $$$$
What class you run?
Very well may be a faulty thermal bypass..This one is not going back on...
I'l go back to the 4590 if I have a problem in the winter...rather hit 200+ one time than all the time !!

I run in the Nostalgia Super Stock ..several different series.
Also run with the Outlaw Pontiac Drag Series here in VA and some brackets.... Getting to be too many rules ....thinking about playing around with a TURBO...or twin turbo's.....I want more HP !!
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 09:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
I suspect a restriction in the cooler circuit causing the bypass to open.

The bypass is not there to help warm the trans in cold weather. It is there to maintain lube flow to the rear of the trans if the cooler circuit gets plugged. With the bypass working if the cooler circuit gets restricted you get higher temperatures. If the bypass is gone and the cooler circuit gets restricted you have little or no lube flow to the rear half of the trans. That's not very good for parts that spin!
Mark....I respect your background but this is my take ....TruCool says this unit is a THERMAL BYPASS !? passes a little fluid all the time but starts to open at 160 & is full open at 180. TruCool definitly says it regulates fluid temp....?? In theory I guess it's to keep temps at 180!!?? Not a pressure by pass..IMO. I flushed radiator cooler and this is a NEW Max cooler. Should not be any blockages..+ I had no problems with the 4590 flow..Am I missing something ?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 03:52 AM
  #40  
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OK, that is an aftermarket part. I was thinking the OEM bypass, but upon reflection that may have started with the '99 trucks.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 08:29 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
OK, that is an aftermarket part. I was thinking the OEM bypass, but upon reflection that may have started with the '99 trucks.
10-4 Mark. Thought that's what you were thinking ..
I have a friend who has been with Ford as a engineer forever it sems like. He thinks modern ATF/trans is OK with 200 degrees to..??
I do run a full synsetic ATF but still like temps on the "low" side.
Question...wonder if a later plastic cooling fan off a SD bolt to a 96 in place of the heavy **** steel fan ?? Would like to extend water pump life..
 
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 10:11 AM
  #42  
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Modern ATF is good to about 300°F. It can run 220°F all day long for 30,000 miles with no problem. Synthetic ATF is good for higher than that.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 60man
10-4 Mark. Thought that's what you were thinking ..
I have a friend who has been with Ford as a engineer forever it sems like. He thinks modern ATF/trans is OK with 200 degrees to..??
I do run a full synsetic ATF but still like temps on the "low" side.
Question...wonder if a later plastic cooling fan off a SD bolt to a 96 in place of the heavy **** steel fan ?? Would like to extend water pump life..
If you want to extend water pump life I would just make a dual electric fan setup instead and take all of that load off the water pump.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 03:18 PM
  #44  
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If you "Figger Out" how to adapt the SD fan & Clutch to the OBS let me know as I have been wrestling with that idea for over a year.

Rog
 
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Brown Falcon
If you want to extend water pump life I would just make a dual electric fan setup instead and take all of that load off the water pump.
Thought about that but my engineer buddy @ Ford said not a good idea for what I do with my truck. Mostly heavy over the road towing + some short hauls. Any info & pics around here about electric fans ???
 
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