They will bolt up fine , they will probabley have smaller chambers witch is good , depending on the year they may or may not have hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel & may have adjustable stud mount rockers , get the number off the heads & im sure one of them will be able to tell you what they are...Lew

 

but they will work theoretically i think they are from 74 but i am not sure i have to look at them close when i get home tonight.

 

now that lew says that I think i remember talking to one of my ford buddies and he said the 69-70 351w heads used to be the "cats meeaowww" before performance aftermarket heads and gt40's. Smaller combustion chambers will increase your compression and give you a few more HP...

Info from my Ford SB rebuild book says you should have rail type rockers. 1968.5 and later engines have valve adjustability by changing the push rods... so good news you wouldn't have to go back to adjust them... Bad news... I'd make sure you have the right length push rods so your intake and exhaust valves get opened and closed properly...

Also... Hardened steel caps were used on exhaust valve tips only. from 68.5-77.

 

awesome i will definatly check them when i get home maybe i luck out and get the 69-70 ones

 

I have the dooe heads on my truck that came off a 351 69 mach I , they have 60cc chambers that brings my comp up to about 9.5 , they have screw in studs but i think they were press in originaly , they have had some work done to them , bigger 1.90-1.60 valves in them & some porting , i bought them like this , they also don't have the air pump ports or holes in the back of the heads for the air pump system .....Lew

 

did the change in compression cause you to need maf on your truck?

 

the change in compression shouldn't necessitate MAF although if you get to close to 10.0 you'll be running premium gas all the time... SD just requires a high vacuum pressure and a higher compression ratio won't affect that much at all. I bumped my compression to 9.4 on my 351w with flat pistons and was told I won't need maf (pssst... I'm planning on maf anyhow)

 

AWESOME i hope they are those early ones if not i am sure they will suffice for now.

 

if the truck is going down for a while you might just want to soak the oem ones for a few days till you figure out which ones you are going to use. those header bolts will be way easier to take out if the head are off and constantly soaking in PB blaster... like I said you might want to check on push rod length too... a new set might be just as expensive as the machine shope bill for the 8 broken bolts... Just saying keep your options open...

 

i sure will thank you

 

.....Im one of the lucky ones that has a 95 with factory MA , yeah you should be ok

 

cool i think the pushrod lengths are the same i am not sure though considering my engine is a 94 roller. i will measure them to check

 

nope my pushrods are shorter since i have a roller cam it evens out i am wondering what kind of rockers the other motor has.

 

Those guys would not be my "buddies" anymore after breaking 8 of 16...........thats just plain carelessness.
I say they need to compensate $$$$ for any machine shop work/parts that will be needed due to their lame skills.

 

i did too but i dont think i could beat the amount out of them these guys are so broke i wouldnt get a dime out of them lol i couldnt even injure them enough to make that bill their bodies arent even worth that. I do think i will just swap the heads out and be done with it.