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I just replaced the solenoid and my truck clicks when I try and start it. I can hear the clunking coming from the solenoid. So I am trying to get the starter out for testing. I was able to get everything out except the Drive End Bracket. Is there a trick or some bolts that I am missing?
I got the two Assembly Bolts out and there was only one bolt holding my Drive End Bracket the other seems to be missing.
What are you working on? Your post isn't too clear on what you're doing. I'm not too clear on what "drive end bracket" you're talking about. The starters are usually attached with either two or three bolts, as far as I know there isn't a "drive end bracket". A picture or two would help.
Before I went to all the trouble to pull the starter I would first check all the battery cable connections. Make sure they're clean and tight and the cables are in good shape, including the cable from the solenoid to the starter and the ground connection on the engine block (the battery ground IS connected to the block, isn't it?).
I agree with Mike; you should check the connections first. Also check the battery voltage with a meter. There are at least a dozen reasons the starter won't turn when the solenoid clicks and a bad starter is only one of them.
BTW - the solenoid is supposed to make a one-time click sound. It's the sound of the contact plate inside shorting across the two lugs on each side. You can't hear it under normal conditions because the starter turns at the same time the solenoid closes, and the starter is louder than the solenoid. But the solenoid itself is actually quite loud - you can actually see it jolt when it clicks if you're next to it.
The battery was just replaced. I disassembled the starter with the 3/8 long bolts and not the 1/2 short bolts connected to the engine. I haven't check all the cables. I will do that tonight. There was just one black cable going to the starter. Im going to reconnect the part I took off and hope the bracket and complete starter will come off.
The starter doesn't come out like that. Those two long bolts hold the starter together, it isn't necessary to take those off. Just take the two (or three) bolts off that attach the complete starter to the bell housing.
If the field housing has been taken off or slid back some on the armature you'll probably have to slide the housing back on with the end cap loose. The brushes will have to be retracted into the little holders so the cap can be slid back over the commutator. This is much easier to do with the starter off so I would just go ahead and finish taking the starter off "as is" then reassemble it while it's out.
There is only one cable that goes to the starter.
In my 77 truck with a 302, I had to drop the header on both ends to replace the starter. It took some extra time, but not that bad. I doubt you would have to with stock manifolds.
I had a solenoid die on my '77 and make the loud click/clunk sound, but the starter motor wouldn't engage. A trick to check to make sure it is the starter and NOT the solenoid is to jump/short the solenoid - what you do is take a screwdriver and cross it between the terminal with the long wire going down to the starter motor, and the small terminal next to the starter power wire.
If that doesn't help and it doesn't turn over, just replace the whole thing - two bolts and the whole thing slides out of the bellhousing. I replaced the starter in my truck in under 15 minutes, only to find out it was the darn solenoid!
I found out why I am having such a hard time. The 12'oclock bolt is snapped off that connects the housing. I don't have the car jacked cause I have a body lift and no jacks. So, last night I was able to pull the start out which I thought was complete, but it was everything but the bell-housing. I then pulled off the 6'oclock bolt and thought how wired the 12o'clock bolt needs a nut. Well either way now the bell-housing and the top of the starter are stuck.
I put some liquid wench and tried needle nose pliers there is about a 1/4 of an inch sticking out.
I was thinking of getting a new stater and taking off the bell-housing and putting it into the truck.
Do you think the part will fit? Then I can bring it to a mechanic to cut the bolt.
are you sure the top bolt is broken off or does it come in from the backside? :-)
I've seen this on more than one occasion too.
Also - never use pliers of any kind on a bolt, unless you're 100% sure you're grabbing the head. If you need to, the best way is to drill out the center of the bolt and use an EZ-out.
If the bolt does come through from the backside, you can always buy a straight threaded bolt of the same size, and a nut, and put it in from the front Works wonders!
No worries dude! Happens to the best of us, especially if you've never done the job on a particular vehicle before (I know I've always seen both bolts from the front except on my truck!).
Like I said, to make it less confusing, you may want to drill out that hole (or use a full-threaded bolt) and put a nut on the backside to make it easier in the future, or just try to remember
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