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Ive installed 2 aluminum heat shields under & toward the engine. The temp @ the ficm is about 10 degree's cooler
when running, but after shut down the heat soak temp from 1/2-1 hr is about the same as without the heat shields, 160 f
my temp probe was only 3 ft long(i wanted the digital dispay in the cab) so i placed it on the bottom of the ficm toward the drivers fender well, away from the engine. So the engine side may/would be hotter!
Coolant temps operate around 220 max, so engine block temps are in that range as well. The only places you'll get more heat from are the exhaust/turbo, and those don't have significant heat capacities to contribute to the heat soak at shut-down.
While I am no fan of replacing 125° rated caps with 105° versions for all the reasons already mentioned, it should be pointed out that simply because a cap hits that magical 125°C temperature point, doesn't mean that it fails. Electrolytic capacitors lose 50% of their design life for every 10°C warmer that they have to operate within.
In all the FICM's that I've repaired, I've only seen one with a truly blown cap. MOSFET failures occur easily 20 times as often.
Most show signs of degradation and many benefit from being replaced, but are still operating well within the + or - 20% margin of capacitance from the marked rating.
Has anyone yet found a workable and relatively simplistic solution for isolating the FICM from the engine and/or for installing a heat shield?
True, but FICM temps easily approach 125 degrees celcius when you turn off a hot engine and the heat soaks up to the FICM. I sure wouldn't want to lower the cap's rated temps. Really, the caps should be rated higher than 125 or, ideally, the FICM not mounted on top of the engine.
I tried finding a harness to allow me to place the FICM atleast by the fender away from direct contact with the engine. No luck with aftermarket harnesses, all I found that was close to plug-n-play was a harness from a FORD Diesel Van. I think that was mentioned in another post on this site. I never went any further than that. Good luck in the search. I think you will hit a Grand Slam Home Run if you find an easy plug in harness to allow the relocation of the FICM on the 6.0L.
True, but FICM temps easily approach 125 degrees celcius when you turn off a hot engine and the heat soaks up to the FICM. I sure wouldn't want to lower the cap's rated temps. Really, the caps should be rated higher than 125 or, ideally, the FICM not mounted on top of the engine.
No doubt. This is why I'm not a fan of using 105° caps. Ideally, the caps would be rated above the 125° or the issue just made a non-issue with a relocation.
The main issues remain the caps, the resistors, and the MOSFETs. All or most of these issues would go away if the vibration and heat were taken out of the equation.
Not helping the situation for many is the heat damage that they themselves cause to the components when trying simple re-flow repairs without a regulated and known temperature on their iron.
Hi. I have hit a brick wall every way I have turned, from pro to new 6.0L owner. Nobody has come up with a simple plug-n-play solution to the FICM relocation issue. I replaced my OEM FICM with a 58v version, it lasted about 20k then burned up. Now I am back to a stock FICM at 180,000miles. Good luck in the search.
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