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Engine Mounts replace on a 5.8l W

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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:49 PM
  #1  
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From: SWFL
Engine Mounts replace on a 5.8l W

GOOD EVENING TECH-HEADS

My truck is a 1995 F250XLT 4x4, 351W, most all stock. Just ordered the Ford racing highflow shorty headers from Summit as a start on the exuast of this truck. PLan is to reuse the Ypipe and if not either get a bassani ypipe if I can find the proper part # or fabricate one using existing factory y. The muffler guys are saying 3 in from header to Y the into a cat, then into a 50 series muffler 21/2in at this point and through to the end out back the right tire. I've explainded I don't want the popping sound on de-celeration.
I need to replace both motor mounts as the rubber is cracked so I want to do this job while the manifolds are off. ANY suggestions on aftermarket type mounts (neoprene or silicon vrs factory? Pice I got from Ford wsas $191.80 for the pair.
Any other mounts I nshouold be looking at while I'm getting my hands dirty, like bed or cab mounts, suspension mounts, bushings, what have you?
Looking to do the 1.7 roller rockers instead of a SD friendly cam. Again, any help is appreciated.
Truck is my daily driver and is a gos hogage.
Have a good night. Talk amoung yourselfs.
Chip, chip and all that rot.
Canadian Soldier45
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:08 AM
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Pretty sure I picked up my motor mounts for like $50 from O'riely's, maybe more but nowhere near 200.

Suggest doing the Tranny mount too. Those 3 hold the entire engine/tranny assembly in place. When the motor mounts are ****ty it puts more strain on the Tranny mount and vice versa.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:38 AM
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1994 F250: 351, C6's Avatar
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The muffler guys who recomended what size exhaust to go with are wrong. Go with a y pipe that takes 2.5" from the headers and merges into a 3" system all the way to your exit point.

As for motor mounts, I would not give Ford $200, you can get a set for between $50 and $100 from any of the part stores, and I would just go with a standard rubber set, they will last for a long time.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 03:29 AM
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lol omg $200 for engine mounts....

$22 for each side so about $50
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 04:16 AM
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I agree the exhaust guys are way off. on a 351 you want 2.5" where the banks are seperate (y pipe) and 3" where they come together. And yeah, dont bother goin to ford for motor mounts. I replaced mine w/ stock replacment moog ones years ago and even after all the abuse muddin puts on them they still look good as new
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 09:29 AM
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Im am looking to change my motor mounts on my 351, with that said seeing as I've never done them before is it possible to do this without pulling the motor out a friend told me that you have to but IMO it does not look like you'd have to.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 10:49 AM
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The motor simply has to be lifted to change the mounts no need to remove it, at most you may have to remove the upper intake plenum to gain firewall clearance.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 11:15 AM
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Guys

Thank you for the insight. And sorry for the attrocious spelling. That's what happens when you are on the wifes laptop and waiting for the Ambien to take effect.

I thought the Ford dealership price was off, hence the post. I will go with the MOOG engine and tranny mounts. I'm sure the local Autozone / Advanced AP.

I am having trouble tracking down the Y-pipe. After reading countless exhaust threads I think I remember that Bassani and another company make ready made Y-pipes for my application (shorty headers to after market cat single in - single out system). I want to avoid the labour costs from the muffler shop by supplying as much as possible. The shop guy does not have a mandrel bender so all bends will be inner diameter robbing. Thoughts or direction on this are welcome.

CS45
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by greg213187
Im am looking to change my motor mounts on my 351, with that said seeing as I've never done them before is it possible to do this without pulling the motor out a friend told me that you have to but IMO it does not look like you'd have to.

If your doing it on the ground, a 2x4 under the cranck pulley on a jack works pretty well. Just be VERY careful! undo all of the bolts first then jack it up and swap them out.
You shouldn't need to remove anything, should just be able to make it.
One more thing, the mounts from the parts store have liftime a warrenty. Ford, maybe a year.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:46 PM
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Sounds good. Thanks for all the advice and I'll be sure to show my buddy (Who's a chevy truck owner) lol.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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Doesn't anyone else just weld up the shot mounts to make them solid? I've done that on EVERY V8 ford I have had. Never had any issues. Just make sure to keep the trans mounted with rubber.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 03:00 PM
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As a follow up to the original motor mount post, here's what happened:

Since I was getting Ford racing shorties installed the mech took off the old manifolds, which BTW had one broken stud on the right bank already and he "only" broke 2 studs on the left bank. This gave good clearance / access to the motor mounts. But on my truck the left mount bracket was rivited (4) in so out came the air chisel. The mounts where in dire need of replacement and I'm glad I did them, tranny mount included.

As for the remainder of the exhaust, the Y-pipe and cat that the "tech expert" at Magnaflow stated was a direct fit for my truck wasn't, so I had the shop manufacture a Y-pipe from the headers down to a 3 inch system including the Y, cat and muffler straight out to behind my R/R wheel. Sweet, but now I gotta return the parts to Summit and call up this expert and tell him thanx for nothing.

I'm glad I had someone else with the proper tools and equipment do the job, although it cost me in the end. Oh ya, it sounds Sweeeeeeeet and none of that popping when the throttle is let up. Now to research these 1.7 lifters Mr. C keeps mentioning.

Once again, thanks for the help.

Regards
CS45
 

Last edited by CS45; Jun 21, 2010 at 03:03 PM. Reason: un-acceptable spelling errors
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