update with video
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Post Fiend
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From: concord ca
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From: West Bend
I'm most certain your wires on the alternator are the issue. your sig says an 85 which should be a voltage regulator separate from the alternator. If you don't have the voltage regulator hooked up to the alternator to tell it to charge it won't charge. Looks like a new voltage regulator in the fender well I think.
Sometimes you can make out an F and and S label on the alternator for Field and Stator. F and S should connect to the voltage regulator F and S respectively. I've only got a gasser diagram to look at for the moment, but I'm assuming ford used the same wire colors.
I on the voltage regulator should be connected to a light green with red tracer that connects to the instrument cluster for the charging warning light.
S on the voltage regulator connected to S on the alternator and is white with a black tracer
Field from voltage regulator to the alternator is orange with a light blue tracer.
Sometimes you can make out an F and and S label on the alternator for Field and Stator. F and S should connect to the voltage regulator F and S respectively. I've only got a gasser diagram to look at for the moment, but I'm assuming ford used the same wire colors.
I on the voltage regulator should be connected to a light green with red tracer that connects to the instrument cluster for the charging warning light.
S on the voltage regulator connected to S on the alternator and is white with a black tracer
Field from voltage regulator to the alternator is orange with a light blue tracer.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: West Bend
My '85 alternator has an orange wire with blue tracer hooked up to the Field terminal. The field terminal is the one on the pulley side of the alternator. I have no wire connected to the stator of mine. hooking up the field will energize the alternator. You can jumper 12v to that field terminal of the alternator to do a "full field" test. This will cause the alternator to go full output so only do it for a short bit but can be useful to test the alternator. The regulator activates the alternator by energizing the field coils. Oh and the labels are on the back of the alternator as well for reference.
Stator terminal should be un-needed.
Best of luck!
I switched mine to a 200A internally regulated alternator
Stator terminal should be un-needed.
Best of luck!
I switched mine to a 200A internally regulated alternator
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Post Fiend
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From: concord ca
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From: West Bend
Here ya go!
<img src="http://www.airplanesathome.com/FTEpics/Alt1.JPG" width="640">
<img src="http://www.airplanesathome.com/FTEpics/Alt2.JPG" width="640">
<img src="http://www.airplanesathome.com/FTEpics/Alt1.JPG" width="640">
<img src="http://www.airplanesathome.com/FTEpics/Alt2.JPG" width="640">
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Postmaster
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From: Elk City, OK
OR if you want, you can take it to a place that rebuilds alternators and have them convert it to a 1 wire. so that plug on top wont be used. just the one bolted to the rear. basically like older cars have. cost $25 when i did it to my chevy.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: So. Jersey
Your chevy alt is internally regulated so you can do that one wire conversion. The ford needs the orange wire to the regulator to excite the field to make a charge.
Lead Driver
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From: So. Jersey
Yes this is true as I have one. And your correct it is recommended to use the ford style external regulated for this as you are able to full field it to the peak desired amperage at a moderate rpm.
Elder User
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From: West Bend
Close... it's actually a harbor freight 220v spot welder My truck is getting new cab corners, outer floor pans, rocker panels, lower door skins and a fair amount of other repair parts fabricated from scratch and hoping I can make some use of it on the truck. Purchased the spot welder to make my life easier for fabricating the one-of-a-kind furnace plenum from hell when I added central air to the house. I figured it was a low enough use item that a HFT item should suffice. If it's a tool I know I'll get a lot of use out of or quality will be an issue for usability I get a name brand proven product. Sucky part is you need clean tip to metal and metal to metal contact with the spot welder and all the body repair panels are painted and it insulates it enough to not want to spot weld...doh!
My truck is getting new cab corners, outer floor pans, rocker panels, lower door skins and a fair amount of other repair parts fabricated from scratch and hoping I can make some use of it on the truck. Purchased the spot welder to make my life easier for fabricating the one-of-a-kind furnace plenum from hell when I added central air to the house. I figured it was a low enough use item that a HFT item should suffice. If it's a tool I know I'll get a lot of use out of or quality will be an issue for usability I get a name brand proven product. Sucky part is you need clean tip to metal and metal to metal contact with the spot welder and all the body repair panels are painted and it insulates it enough to not want to spot weld...doh!
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