Super Duty Clunk
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Super Duty Clunk
Ok so I have the super duty clunk. I was on here yesterday and found directions on how to fix this problem. So I went an got the grease. Now I can't find the directions. I have searched relube split yoke splines, super duty clunk, and several others with no success. If anyone has a link to them, or can post the directions it would be greatly apprecited. Thanks guys.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,137
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From: Glendive, MT
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
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From: Mesa AZ
I don't think the OP wants to install a zerk fitting, he just wants to grease up the slip joint. If so, here is how I do it.
Chock the wheels. This is super important. The only excuse not to chock the wheels is because you have a garage lift.
So, chock the wheels. (worth saying twice because some people have been seriously hurt when their truck started rolling away after the driveshaft was removed)
I then take a grease pencil and make alignment marks on the front of the slip joint boot and the shaft. I also mark the u-joint so I know how it's registered in the pinion yolk on the differential.
Remove the forward band clamp on the boot and pull back on the boot to expose the slip joint.
Then remove the 8mm hex bolts at the u-joint to differential pinion.
Pull out the section of driveshaft. Clean off the old grease from the splines and try to get as much of the old grease out of the female portion (short end) of the driveshaft piece. Lightly grease the splines, and also grease the receiving tube as well.
Test fit the driveshaft and push the spline all the way into the receiving tube. What you are doing here is making sure you don't have too much grease packed inside the tube. Make sure it's well greased but don't pack it full. The spline shaft should slide all the way in without jamming up.
Then reinstall in reverse order, using the mark on the boot to align with the receiving tube so you know you have the spines aligned correctly. Then by default the u-joint should also be registered correctly as well.
To secure the boot, I was able to re-use the factory strap. If your's breaks then you'll have to secure it some other way. Stainless steel bailing wire should work well. A plastic zip tie probably won't last too long...
Good luck. It's super easy to do.
Chock the wheels. This is super important. The only excuse not to chock the wheels is because you have a garage lift.
So, chock the wheels. (worth saying twice because some people have been seriously hurt when their truck started rolling away after the driveshaft was removed)
I then take a grease pencil and make alignment marks on the front of the slip joint boot and the shaft. I also mark the u-joint so I know how it's registered in the pinion yolk on the differential.
Remove the forward band clamp on the boot and pull back on the boot to expose the slip joint.
Then remove the 8mm hex bolts at the u-joint to differential pinion.
Pull out the section of driveshaft. Clean off the old grease from the splines and try to get as much of the old grease out of the female portion (short end) of the driveshaft piece. Lightly grease the splines, and also grease the receiving tube as well.
Test fit the driveshaft and push the spline all the way into the receiving tube. What you are doing here is making sure you don't have too much grease packed inside the tube. Make sure it's well greased but don't pack it full. The spline shaft should slide all the way in without jamming up.
Then reinstall in reverse order, using the mark on the boot to align with the receiving tube so you know you have the spines aligned correctly. Then by default the u-joint should also be registered correctly as well.
To secure the boot, I was able to re-use the factory strap. If your's breaks then you'll have to secure it some other way. Stainless steel bailing wire should work well. A plastic zip tie probably won't last too long...
Good luck. It's super easy to do.
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