your welcome.anything else i can help ya with during install just give a shout.but once that stocker comes off,and you start to slide in that power and fuel saver,you'll see it's all pretty clear what needs to be done.

 

update;
so though its now summer with temps in the 80's these twins fans still seem to be too much all at once when they kick on high.
iv decided rather than messing around with the relay type controller - which finally burnt out btw,though i think it was my fault.i was working on something and shorted them out.been just using a relay with the a/c control to spin the fans.iv decided to just get the variable rate controller.this way the fans will work together as one,and rather than blasting on high,which drops soooooooo fast,i fear for my head gaskets with such fast and extreme temp changes.for example when im driving slow in traffic,and see the temp gauge read 235 (where i have it flash at me,so i don't let hit hit/or go over 240) and i turn them on,inside just a minute the temps will fall below the t-stats fully open temp of 212 or even start to close at 205! that's just too quick for my liking,though if im loaded up and hit a hill,i want to keep both fans there,that's why i haven't unhooked one nor messed around with dual toggles.rather just make it all right now that i know how they work.
so i ordered the WP85,which is the 85 amp version of the VC1280 that comes with the engine style temp sensor rather than the rad type,and a split loom for use with a water pump,though in my case the second fan for easy install.
likely will be a couple weeks before i get it from Brain,but i'll keep ya updated.
i also grabbed the indicator lights and adjustment **** to mount on the gauge pod beside the coolant temp which should be slick.
this should be the way to go,and the way i should have just done it in the first place.

but so far so good with the windstar e-fans.-too good in fact without the plow on,so i need to tone 'em down a bit and let 'em rev up to speed if they need it.

 

Why not convert it to use a n electro-viscous fan clutch. Nothing can move more air than the mechanical engine fan. With an electro-viscous clutch you can have nearly direct drive fan or no fan. You just have to find out how to mount one off a 6.0 or 6.4 and how to controll it. I just did a water pump on a 6.0 and the threads on the fan clutch are opposite from an IDI. That could present a challenge. Also it could be PWM controlled which would present another challenge lol. I think thats the coolest invention ever. The service truck i drive at work has a 6.4 in it and I leave it running when im working on something and its 90 plus degrees out. The fan just roars like crazy at idle on that thing. It almost has to with 7 radiators and coolers out front. I like the idea of precise control of a mechanical fan. Also, I wouldnt worry too much about cooling too much too fast because big semis turn that big fan on full blast all at once with an air clutch and cool the big diesels down pretty fast. Theyve been like that for ever and no problems.

 

clutch fan just went on my truck. So hooked up two electric fans, one puller, and one pusher. 70 degrees out hauling a 42foot enclosed car trailer, it still overheated.....

Ordering new clutch fan this week.......... Electric just aint cutting it in my application.(lots of BIG hills up here in the white mountains of NH

 

oooo thats a lot of weight.
do you have the details on the fans your tried latemodel?

 

not sure I understand your question?

 

what kind of electric fan did you use?

 

Not true , That number is for a right hand thread 7.3, i.e powerstroke
I have personally called Horton about a month ago to see if they made any type of air clutch that would work on our engines after noticeing that in the catalog and was told straight out it was a no go and They make no clutches at all anymore for these engines. An air clutch was my first choice before going to e fans, but now I'm working on an E fan setup, but I have a custom radiator and that makes a world of difference.

 

installing a small e-fan for my trans cooler now.
so thought id post the pic of my controller install for the coolant fans.
as often as i could use a fan on the trans cooler,im gunna just run a switch for that.........i think.still deciding.

this delta variable rate controller (Brain said to install it where it can keep cool.that's why its out there.he also told me i wanted part number #FK85 so thats what i ended up with) is working PERFECT!
they hardly need to spin now,and when they do,the indicator light turns orange (starts as green = off,orange = low,red = high with deeper color change as it draws more amps) and i think iv seen deep orange and red just once now.inside 30 seconds though pretty much she turns right back to green or light orange lol.pretty dang nice.
july/aug - the hottest months this setup passed with flying colors with up to 16k gross here in Maine.
winter with the plow on was FAR more challenge for the fans than working her loaded in the 80-90 degree Maine summer.
(last pic.)


so now,im working on increasing the transmissions efficiency.
like the engine,the trans has a peak efficiency temp as well.which is around 160-180 degrees.
im installing the e-fan of course to help with cooling when loaded up driving slow in town/up hill under the TC lockup.iv seen 200 degree temps (trans fluid temp just before the radiator cooler-max heat location for fluid) but that's pretty rare (besides with the plow on.) whats been troubling me mostly,was that im seeing below 150 degree fluid temp almost 90% of the time.
this is no good for fuel economy nor the transmission.
so im installing a 180 degree remote mount oil/trans cooler thermostat/bypass.
i just need to figure out if i'll install before or after my filter or change things around a bit etc.
p.s i grabbed this little 7" 500 CFM rated sucker from amazon for 17 bucks and change(they appear to be out now) ! hope it lasts a couple years.i hooked her to a bat,and she really sings.
so i guess i should get back out there,and keep at it.

oh fyi;
in case anyone else is interested in learning more.check this out:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=74305

 

update;
so i grabbed a point and shoot tool from amazon.
Amazon.com: HDE Temperature Gun Infrared Thermometer w/ Laser Sight: Home Improvement

i learned my trans gauge was accurate,but the engine temp was reading high all this time.by about 15 degrees!
i then researched why,and it was either because;
a.of the thread tape i used for the sender (i didn't want leaks!)
or;
b.it required a devoted ground to the gauge.

so i ran a devoted ground to the sending unit,to make sure that was getting ground.no change.
so i ran a devoted ground to the gauge,and sure enough that fixed it.

so all this time,iv been trying to cool her too much,by keeping the temps from going over 235 degree's when my actual temp was just 220 or so lol.
so now im actually seeing a gauge thats reading 195-200 when driving down the road unloaded,where before it was 215ish or so.i thought that was kinda high for unloaded even though i am 8k lb empty.
so that explains that.
having a decent point and shoot tool is handy!
(not sure about the review on it being hard to see.thats odd.iv no issues with that at all.)

the point;
it's easier to keep these idi's cooler than i even thought.
i have been curious of my temp readings for a while now,cus the upper rad hose sure didn't seem that hot even when i had a flashing warning gauge at 235.
also,don't be fooled into thinking these fans wont keep her cooler than even that.i just don't have 'em set to spin sooner.
if you want,t would be easy as pie as i know now,to make her t-stat shut right up and stay there haha.iv probably been doing that from time to time and didn't even know it.
that's not good for efficiency.so time to let her run at a real 225-235 if she wants at times.

for more on the trans t-stat i installed for efficiency,you can read here;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...l#post10773358

so really,im having more issues trying to keep things warm enough,rather than cool enough if anything.
just remember im in Maine,and i run inside the max gross rating of the truck.this doesn't mean you'll have the same results out in the desert while towing a very large RV or heavy trailers with equipment up in the rocky mountains.

 

i still havent done an e-fan conversion to my truck. i realize it would net some decent efficiency, but ive had NO issues with keepin things cool. i live in laredo, texas. if its 100 degrees, its a cool day. its been in triple digits since february, and shows no sign of coolin down. my 6.9 runs 204 degrees under all conditions. drivin hard down the highway, or sittin in traffic idlin with the a/c goin full bore. ive never seen it move above 204.

 

So, can anyone dumb down these results, opinions, and ideas into one easier to understand post? Theres pages of data here. So, is a 3.8 fan enough? Do you need two? Are there any other fans that are as good, like a Meziere or equivalent? Whats a good fan controller to use? Does anybody have any overheating problems running these electric fans properly installed while towing large loads? I'm on a mpg search, and this is on my list.

 

3.8l fans work well.
yes two are needed.
fan controller depends on budget.
all you need are two relays and couple switches.
you could go with a basic relay type controller.
or a variable rate controller for max fuel economy gains.

i wouldn't alter from the ford fans listed here,because;
1.they are field tested to work well.
i know Mel is running dual ford taurus fans and i think he claimed he's never seen high speed yet and he's had them for a few years now.
the ford windstar dual setup is practically just a little trimming,fabricated 1 corner bracket,otherwise a direct bolt on deal and more than work well enough.for those with the taller radiator.
2.we know they last.why alter from what is known to be worth installing?
3.they're priced very,very reasonable and can be found about anywhere.
4.replacement motors can be found used or new and replaced in literately just a couple mins should one ever fail (not common.)

dumbed down results;
they work very well.far superior cooling by far with low rpm/off road work than stock.when plowing for example,iv got max cooling @ idle if desired.try getting max cfm from that stock hog at idle.
iv never felt a power loss uphill even with the fans purposely turned on full.i feel nothing at all (this is why i have a light that informs me whats going on.) my power isn't robbed from my rear wheels.instead it goes towards forward motion to take me up the hill and not slow me down.this is extremely important when talking about an engine that most likely only has 130 or so hp.the last thing i want is 20 of those ponies spent cooling my engine leaving me with just 110 hp for climbing hills.yuck!

93 f250HD 4x4,7.3l N/A,E40D,3.84 gearing,8100 lbs empty,large dump bed,DRW:
(running empty is not common.rural stop and go driving mainly on hilly terrain.)
http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-l...vehicleid=5088

 

Im gunna bite. Ive thought about E-fans and would like to make it happen. However i have a 6th gen ie 73-79 factory super cooler radiator so i need to find what fits. I do have a 3g alt from a taurus (should be 120a but not sure).

Right now I believe my problem is the AC blocking the radiator. I also do not have a shroud. Cruising on flat level ground above 35mph, no problem. Under that or going up 6% grades empty.... big problem. Fan clutch seems like it should be good but ive never heard it lock up.
Im not big on the hypermiler stuff, but extra MPG and more power is always nice. I avg. 17.7 in a big lifted 6500lb truck, even 1mpg would be a worthwhile difference imo, even without my current cooling problems.
Basically this is what im thinking... i may or may not have a working $150 clutch, I do NOT have a radiator shroud, and do not feel like custom fabbing / modding one. I DO have a cooling problem. I think going e-fans should kill 2 birds with 1 stone.. .hopefully. Just to find some or one that fits.

For reference - My uncle has a 730hp big block dodge in a duster with a 2core alum rad with electric honda civic fans on a switch ( 620cfm ea.) one puller one pusher. Stays cool just fine at the drag strip.

 

I have a set of windstar fans on my 92. While I was looking for them, i found a unit that had a plug with 3 wires going to it. I tested it and found out that it would run at half speed with 2 wires and full speed when I switched one of the wires. I don't know what vehicle it came off of, but I found it interesting anyway. It would fit right into the Windstar fans so I could have a 3 speed setup.