Engine Removal
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
Likes: 2
From: Alberta, Canada
Engine Removal
Hi guys I have a few questions.
My motor is toast and needs more to repair than just replacing.
If I decide to pull the motor myself how hard is it to remove out the front of the truck?
I have a 2 ton picker(same as pick) will this pull/hold this motor? What does a fully loaded 6.0L long block weigh?
2 ton quick lift shop crane | Shopcrnes/engnestand&acc | Repair Equipment | Shop & Garage | Princess Auto
I have heard some people being able to do it by just removing the trans bolts and converter bolts, same as most gas jobs. Whats entailed in doing it this way on this motor?
My motor is toast and needs more to repair than just replacing.
If I decide to pull the motor myself how hard is it to remove out the front of the truck?
I have a 2 ton picker(same as pick) will this pull/hold this motor? What does a fully loaded 6.0L long block weigh?
2 ton quick lift shop crane | Shopcrnes/engnestand&acc | Repair Equipment | Shop & Garage | Princess Auto
I have heard some people being able to do it by just removing the trans bolts and converter bolts, same as most gas jobs. Whats entailed in doing it this way on this motor?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,956
Likes: 6
From: Abilene, Texas
I pulled mine out the front. You have to remove the front clip (girll and all the supports)and all the radiators and coolers behind it. It only took me about 10-15 mins to do this the first time. then you take the turbo out, unhook the computer throw the wire harness on top of the motor, take the a/c compressor off, ps pump, unbolt trans and tc (you do not have to drop the trans just unbolt), and unbolt the motor mounts. I think that about it. if your good like cheezit you can have it out in 4 hours. Me it took me about 6-8 hours. I think I could do it now in 4 if I had to do it over. Oh by the way the tc bolts are a mother to get to. To get those out take out the starter to have access to the fly wheel. thre is a rubber boot in the front of the trans, by the oil pan, take it out and you can just get a 3/8 rachit in there to remove the tc bolts. turn the fly wheel with a screw driver where the starter was to get to the bolts. a 6.0 if I remember right weighs about 1K loaded. You should be ok with that lift as long as you dont get the motor to high with it.
Senior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 462
Likes: 1
Shoot I bet cheezit could have the engine out torn down to the crank put all back together and a five hundred mile trip under his belt in the time it takes u to pull the engine out. Lol! No offense guys I just had to do it.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
Likes: 2
From: Alberta, Canada
Good luck... LOL
I found a 2004 donor that has the ICP on the valve cover, anyone know what I need to change to my current setup on the truck to run this engine?
I found a 2004 donor that has the ICP on the valve cover, anyone know what I need to change to my current setup on the truck to run this engine?
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,956
Likes: 6
From: Abilene, Texas
Valve cover, oil rails, and harness (or you could soder some wires to the old harness to make it reach. At least I think you have to change the harness to make it reach the new icp location. That's all I can think of. I'm sure there is more that others will chime in on.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
nice guys way to pick on me. tried it this week aginst another tech engine removal from the front seems to be faster.
to get the converter nut... with the p/s pump removed from the engine they can be gotten from the front. there is another plug on the left side of the block remove it and use a long extension and a 14mm socket the extension goes between the motor mount and the motor.
to get the converter nut... with the p/s pump removed from the engine they can be gotten from the front. there is another plug on the left side of the block remove it and use a long extension and a 14mm socket the extension goes between the motor mount and the motor.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
it should be pretty much plug and play. you may have to change motor mounts (one side may be different.
Rickatic did a lot of reasurch on this. He used a van enigne in his same basic engine with a few differnt bolt-ons. but as for the rest Im tinking you will be fine with the 04 eninge.
some advise would be to try try and find an 06/07 engine as they were the best years. you would once again need the harness and a lower radiator hose and possible change of motor mounts.
Rickatic did a lot of reasurch on this. He used a van enigne in his same basic engine with a few differnt bolt-ons. but as for the rest Im tinking you will be fine with the 04 eninge.
some advise would be to try try and find an 06/07 engine as they were the best years. you would once again need the harness and a lower radiator hose and possible change of motor mounts.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,839
Likes: 2
It should bolt right in. The icp sensor wiring is the only thing I can think of that might be a small issue. At the same time I was working on my truck, a fellow named Slavio was putting an 06 engine in his 03. We talked on the phone several times. His swap went well and so should yours. Cheezit was right when he said it was plug and play