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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Engine Removal

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Old May 22, 2010 | 12:38 AM
  #16  
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Ok thanks, sounds good.
I got one more question, the FICM isn't on the replacement engine. It was used by the owner on one of their other trucks.
Can I just use my FICM thats currently working on my truck or is it going to need to be brought into a dealer to reprogram?
 
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Old May 22, 2010 | 09:57 AM
  #17  
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You can use yours without any problems.
 
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Old May 22, 2010 | 12:13 PM
  #18  
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Great! Thanks!
 
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Old May 22, 2010 | 11:49 PM
  #19  
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Hey guys. Got the replacement motor today. Its an 03 motor with the ICP in the back same as my original.
Got a few questions that i'm sure have been asked.

I'm going to do some work on the motor while its out, head studs and gaskets are near the top of the list. I was led to believe that once the heads are removed they will be warped and may be too warped to use.

Whats the procedure for checking for warpage or should I save time and just take them in anyways?

Whats the specs on checking to see if the warpage is too far gone and how much material can be removed safely?
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 07:17 AM
  #20  
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When you get the heads off take them toa good machine shop and have them checked. You should also have the block checked as well. Ford says .004+ and you need new heads.
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 08:19 AM
  #21  
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I believe you can deck them up to .008, mine were cut to.004
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 10:05 AM
  #22  
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the checking of heads, guids, valves and seats is a bit of an art form. If I had not done it a few times before I would spend the money at a good shop.
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 11:13 PM
  #23  
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I thought that Ford changed the warpage spec to something like .002, which IMHO is too much.

I've seen the spec's for the head somewhere, but may have been in one of the now nonaccessable Ford manuals. There is a total height for valve stem to deck height somewhere. I'm not familiar with all the correct terminology.
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 12:16 AM
  #24  
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Best to take them and get them checked. Ok sounds good.

P.S. where can one find the torque specs for this engine? and the head bolt removal/tightening sequence?
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 05:24 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Fallguy2004
P.S. where can one find the torque specs for this engine? and the head bolt removal/tightening sequence?
Right here in our Tech Folder I will save you some time though, Click Here When installing ARP head studs follow the torque sequence and specifications from ARP.
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 01:09 PM
  #26  
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Great!
Thanks!
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 11:30 PM
  #27  
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Starting the list of things to buy.
I think i'm going to buy this MKM customs complete kit.
Complete 6.0 Ford Powerstroke Solution

Seems to be the most complete.
Three more things i'm going to do are: ICP sensor while the engine is out, new style turbo drain pipe, and maybe the newer oil feed line.

Is there anything else I should be doing while going this far into the replacement engine?
 
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Old May 25, 2010 | 12:00 AM
  #28  
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That kit looks good. Something else while it's out would be any fuel system mods that involve the back of the cylinder heads.
 
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Old May 25, 2010 | 12:05 AM
  #29  
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What did you have in mind? Whats the deal with those "banjo" fittings on ebay? Supposed to open up the union between the lower fueling hose and the head?
 
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Old May 25, 2010 | 12:19 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Fallguy2004
What did you have in mind? Whats the deal with those "banjo" fittings on ebay? Supposed to open up the union between the lower fueling hose and the head?
The banjo's are for the fuel lines feeding the front of the heads. Those are easy to change at any time.

Work on the rear would include either a crossover line to help equalize fuel pressure between the heads, or a regulated return to help increase volume and pressure through the entire length of the heads. To install either type of system you have to remove the factory fuel passage plugs which are between the up pipes and back of the CH's, and install the aftermarket fittings and line(s). It would be a lot easier to do when the motor is out.

Here's a pic of the ITP RR DS rear fitting. The PS is just as bad to get to, if not worse.

 
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