Engine Removal
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
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From: Alberta, Canada
Ok heads cleaned, checked, decked and ready to put back on the engine. I'm having a hard time finding a writeup on the replacement of the oil cooler. I have the instructions that came with the oil cooler but it says to follow ford instructions as to its removal. Is there anything special I need to know before removing the oil cooler covers?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
Likes: 2
From: Alberta, Canada
Thanks!
Got it out and noticed the oil bath below was still full of oil, shouldn't it have drained away?
Anyways saw only the handle of the oil screen showing and pulled it out only to find this had happened to the screen.
I just quickly installed the new screen and i'm about to pull apart the oil housing and replace the cooler. Clean up the block and covers then re-install it.
Got it out and noticed the oil bath below was still full of oil, shouldn't it have drained away?
Anyways saw only the handle of the oil screen showing and pulled it out only to find this had happened to the screen.
I just quickly installed the new screen and i'm about to pull apart the oil housing and replace the cooler. Clean up the block and covers then re-install it.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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Wow, that screen looks rough. I highly recommend siphoning the oil from the sump and thoroughly inspection the valley sump. Cleanliness is king here. That little screen is the last defense before the oil heads through the very expensive HPOP system
Lead Driver
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From: Cartersville, Ga
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
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From: Alberta, Canada
Removed all the oil, saw how the system works. Also took a good look under the screen and if anything got passed the old one its not under it when I cleaned it out. The oil under was just as clean as what was in the sump/valley. Pretty sure I caught this one in time. 
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
the oil sump for the high pressure oil supply holds exactly .89 qts.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
Likes: 2
From: Alberta, Canada
Thanks!
This seems to be a frequently asked but I cannot see anyone properly answering this question.
Whats is the torque for the bolts holding down the oil cooler to the engine block?
Also, anyone recommend putting any spray red gasket sealer on the head gaskets? Or mount them dry?
This seems to be a frequently asked but I cannot see anyone properly answering this question.
Whats is the torque for the bolts holding down the oil cooler to the engine block?
Also, anyone recommend putting any spray red gasket sealer on the head gaskets? Or mount them dry?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
1) I use a 1/4" air rachet. but a 1/4" hand rachet will work there not that tight. maybe 18-20 in lb's.
2) do not put anything on the cyclinder heads or gaskets doing so is bad... very bad... very very bad.
2) do not put anything on the cyclinder heads or gaskets doing so is bad... very bad... very very bad.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
Likes: 2
From: Alberta, Canada
LOL!
Only reason I ask is the small/big blocks i've rebuilt had different head gaskets, mainly fiber and such and I used to soak them in that red spray sealant.
Another.... Good to know!
Only reason I ask is the small/big blocks i've rebuilt had different head gaskets, mainly fiber and such and I used to soak them in that red spray sealant.
Another.... Good to know!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Alberta, Canada
Ok, heads are on. Question:
I have heard people talking about the torque of the studs. ARP states 3 equal torque stages up to 210ft/lb. But I have seen some talking about torquing to 250ft/lb. So far I have the heads to 210 but do I need to go more?
I have heard people talking about the torque of the studs. ARP states 3 equal torque stages up to 210ft/lb. But I have seen some talking about torquing to 250ft/lb. So far I have the heads to 210 but do I need to go more?