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Seems to be the most complete.
Three more things i'm going to do are: ICP sensor while the engine is out, new style turbo drain pipe, and maybe the newer oil feed line.
Is there anything else I should be doing while going this far into the replacement engine?
New style HPOP reservoir screen (I didn't look at the MKM kit) is cheap insurance too.
I actually thought the DS lines were much worse than the passenger side lines but maybe it's the long skinny arms and some practice that helped. They are much easier to do with the engine out, but make sure you don't get in the way of your motor lifting lugs.
Quick question.
The head removal guide in the tech folder shows a different high pressure rail than I have on the replacement engine. Its a solid rail with a braided hose coming off. I cannot seem to see how this hose is removed from the head? There is a hex hut on the line running into the head but it is unaccessable with a wrench and a socket will not work, is there some special tool I need to pop it off? Does it just pull out once I remove the bolts for the rail?
Found this online and figured it may help someone else out.
"What model year 6.0L engine are you referring to? 2003 model years are unique, vs 2004 to 2007 model years. On 2003 model years, you will need to remove the eight 5/16" bolts that secure the high pressure oil rail to the rocker arm bridge and the 15/16" hex fitting that connects the rail to the main high pressure oil supply tube. On 2004 to 2007 model years, you will need to remove the nine TX-30 Torx fasteners to remove the high pressure oil rail. Once the rail is removed, the only thing needed to remove injector(s) on a 6.0L are a 12-point 18 or 19mm socket to slide over the lock tabs of the injector electrical connector to the rocker arm bridge, in order to release them, and a TX-40 Torx bit on a socket to remove the actual injector itself. Just remember that when reinstalling them to torque the bolt down to 24 ft.-lbs. Hope this helps."
Would appear I need to buy a tool. 303-755 ford snap to connect tool to remove this fitting.
This small piece of flat metal with a fork on either end is just over $100USD plus shipping.
Thanks!
Came right off. Now the tube had to be removed to remove the head, the tube really felt like it was twisting and going to break off. With a little more twisting it came loose but appears to have a slight bend to it now, replace?
I have the drivers side head off now and everything looks great, I can still see alot of cross hatch in the cylinders and no strange marks. The head gasket appeared to have a very good seal with no leak marks.
Next to the passenger side then these are off to be cleaned, magnafluxed and decked if need be.
Still thinking about sending the injectors in to be serviced before reinstalling them......
Still thinking about sending the injectors in to be serviced before reinstalling them......
Don't waste your time and money as there are really no serviceable parts in them. If they were working before you pulled them then reinstall them OR replace the whole set. About the only thing you can do is to pull the spool valves out CAREFULLY, clean them, and put them back in, but I wouldn't take the chance of scratching one.