So I'm bored today and figured I'd buy the suspension for my truck. I'm torn between a 2" lift for cost, and a 4" lift for looks. I know 4" is pushing it for getting my TTB to align also, so thats a drawback as well. Regardless though, I need new leaf springs, so keep that in mind. I think I'll do a set of springs from the broncograveyard, but I'm open to suggestions.

To help me decide, if you've got pictures of your/a truck with 2" and 32's or 4" and 33's, feel free to put them up


Edit: Just as a side note, this truck will never see more than a dirt road, so I don't need anything super flexy or super pricey!!

 

I'm not entirely sure,but think i've seen extended brackets for the TTB.Wouldn't they fix the TTB alignment problem with the lift?I'm in the same boat as you,I want a lift,but the truck will only see a few "puddles",enough to keep it away from mall crawler status.

 

yeah, there are drop bracket for the radius arms. But a drop bracket can only work for so much lift before it becomes a little rediculous. I don't want a drop bracket stickin down 6" from the bottom of my truck, know what I mean?

 

Nah,not the radius arm drop brackets,it was for the axle pivot bracket.It's an extended bracket that the driver's side axle case pivots on.I'll see if I can find anything.

Here's a pic.It's the black thing next to the passenger side coil spring that the driver's side axle housing pivots on.

 

Sounds retarded. Keep it stock unless you will actually use the truck for trail rides or heaven forbid actual off roading. You'll be money ahead, since you seem concerned about the cost of the lift.

If you are going to do this, do a 4" or 6" as 2" is hardly worth the work involved. You can get the lift in the rear for free by flipping you shackles, worth 4", maybe just shy of. Move shackles forward for even more lift but harsher ride.

In front you need lift springs and TTB drop brackets. Alignment will be no worse than without the lift so long as you use the drop brackets. I actually have a pair of 4" drop brackets if you can't find any. You also have the option to convert to a Dana 60 after the lift (drop in deal)

Other requirements will be extended shocks, figure around $50/each. Factory brake lines will work fine if in good condition, just bend/modify the brackets so they reach through full droop and keep away from your tires. Check driveshaft slipyoke spline angagement when done. Plan on 35" tires at 4" lift, 37"-38" will fit but is tight.

Biggest costs will be tires, springs, and shocks.

 

so go big or go home huh? well.....2" may be just fine for me. I need suspension, since I don't have any at the moment. Money isn't the issue at all, its the ability to align it afterwards that concerns me. If I'm going to have a hell of a time getting the camber and caster right with 4", than I don't want to go that route.

And for me its no more work to put a 2" lift on that it is to put a 8" lift on, since it will be nothing but a rolling chassis soon enough.

 

My F150 has 4" of lift with drop-down brackets on the radius arms, center axle pivots and a drop pitman arm. I have had it aligned once and that's all it ever needed. You'll encounter alignment issues (camber and caster) if you go with a lift (springs) and no drop-down brackets. I will add that the ride with the lift is harsh to say the least but that's a function of the springs; it does ride better with a thousand pounds of crap in the bed...

 

hey bern, any chance you've got a side picture of your truck?

 

from my gallery:


The truck has 31x10.5x15's on 8" Ford rims. It had the lift when I bought it so I can't answer lift speciffic questions, only that the rear lift is from an add-a-leaf spring.

 

thats a nice truck. so if that's 4" thats about the most I'd want to go, aside from another inch of tire. If you wanted to take a measurement from the ground to the bottom of the rocker panel, I wouldn't mind that either

 

Bern,that's a sweet lookin truck.That's about where I want my truck to sit.

My measurement is gonna be taken by how tall the truck sits.If the roofline is level with or higher than the top of my head,it's got the perfect amount of lift.I don't like my trucks shorter than me.

 

ok, so I just bought the dick cepek 4" lift, and I'll be ordering a set of springs from the bronco graveyard in a little while. Now I've just got to find a set of shocks that will ride decent

 

Actually an 8" lift is more work. 2"-4" is the same. 6" is a bit more, and 8" even more. I have done lifts of all these heights and higher.

Whether you go 2" or 4" you will still need TTB drop brackets to align it and maintain "normal" tire wear. 2" is pretty much pointless, so little difference from stock it's not gonna do much of anything for you. If you just want to me another mall crawler then do whatever suits you.

You asked about pluses and minus of 2" vs 4" citing cost as a concern. They both cost essentially the same, in time and money. 4" is a small but noticeable lift you can do for cheap and not run into any major issues.

 

my truck has 3" body lift I think 4" suspension lift and 35" tires.
It is hard to get in this truck. From the top of the hood to the ground is about 5 feet. I got a good deal on this truck with a blown engine ($400.00) and someone had already lifted this truck. I would not do this to a truck that I was going to drive much

 

I would avoid using pivot drop brackets and doing a cut and turn TTB for your lift. It is more work, but it's the right way to do it. Pivot brackets but stress on your subframe. 4" of lift is not at all pushing it on a TTB.