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Washing soda can be found next to the laundry detergents at most grocery stores.
As for the process, there's threads here and in other forums if you search. "washing soda" and rust as search terms on google gets a whole page of links.
If you already have a pressure washer, you can get a sandblasting attachment for it. It has the advantages of no dust, and because water is incompressible, it's more efficient than blasting with air. The main problem is drying off the piece so it doesn't rust again. I've only tried it for cleaning up an axle, so I don't know if it's likely to damage sheet metal.
I just tired out a product called Evapo-Rust. It's some kind of chelating solution that eats rust but leaves ferrous metal alone. I've found it works OK, but the quantities I am likely to use will cost me big $$$ for my 1973 SCS project.
My question: Are there other products (homebrew or retail) that work like this evapo-rust stuff that might be easier on my wallet that people may know about?
Have you tried naval jelly? You can pick it up from Lowe's.
I tried the vinegar (60%) and water (40%) mix, it works quite well. Especially if you soak the parts in it. You will also need to wire brush it or some such. I read about it somewhere here in the forum while doing a search. I used this soaking method on my bumper nuts & bolts, worked really well, it saved me from having to buy new ones ($35). The post also said that if you are using it in a spray bottle on things like the frame and such, that you should neutralize the effects with baking soda and water once you have the rust off.
You could soak smaller parts in a muriatic acid solution. Cannot remember the water to acid ratio.
To gte surface rust off sheetmetal, I've had good luck with Scrub Free bathroom cleaner and steel wool or 3M scuff pads. I wouldn't try it on heavy rust on a frame, though.
there is no need to media blast with phosphoric acid. simply pressure wash the area to get the rust flake off, then treat with the acid. it will convert the rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate. you will know when it is finished because the metal will turn a matte black color.
i spray it on, and let it dry for 48 hours before giving it a second coat. then i let it dry for 4 days and paint.
Well I just fished out the bits of metal from my molases test bath. After about 3 weeks all the rust is gone, and the parts are dull grey. I would have to say it's a pretty good and cheap solution to my rust removal problems on My scs project. I can get 5 gallons of Molases from the local feed store for $19.00 CAD. I think I'll get a couple of pales of molases and build a molases hot tub in the back yard this fall.
Yep, it sure beats the $1200 or so dollars I thought I might spend on evaporust, or coke and sos pads.
Sorry, but I'm a little confused. I want to take the rust off the surface of the truck without taking the hood, doors and so forth off. It sounds like I blast it with the power washer, let it dry ( do it on a hot day) and then paint it with acid. What kind of acid is best, where do I buy it and what do I apply it with?
After the 48 hour waiting period do I then prime it or sand and prime or just apply the paint. I am seriously considering Rust-olyem (sp?)
BYW, a post suggested doing all the prep work and then taking it to MACO. I had them paint a car for me in the past and the pain fell off in a couple of years.
OK. I am cleaning the rust off the exterior body of my Ford. That means the hood, fenders, rear rails and top of the cab. My plan is to power wash it to get the flakes off and dirt off, let it dry and then paint the rusted areas with naval jelly or something like that. Will this work or should I purchase another product?
should work. You may have to apply the Naval Jelly more than once. It goes on pink, like Ghostbusters 2 slime and turns white when it reacts with the rust. Let it set, wire brush, rinse, dry well, repeat as needed. if it is light rust you may cut out the wire brush and reapplication. spray with some kind of rust converter before priming to get any little bits left behind.
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