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I just tired out a product called Evapo-Rust. It's some kind of chelating solution that eats rust but leaves ferrous metal alone. I've found it works OK, but the quantities I am likely to use will cost me big $$$ for my 1973 SCS project.
My question: Are there other products (homebrew or retail) that work like this evapo-rust stuff that might be easier on my wallet that people may know about?
Last edited by HardkaseDaddy; May 20, 2010 at 01:22 PM.
Reason: typo+
While there is alway's media blasting, it's not alway's practical. Phosphoric acid sold under a number of names with Ospho probably being the most well known. It converts the rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate, may have the exact terms wrong. You're actually killing the rust process. POR-15 is "paint over rust" stopping and sealing the rust. Rust converters like sold by Eastwood and others, convert the rust to a black primer. Point I'm trying to make is there are diff products for diff applications. What removes surface rust from chrome is not what you would use on a frame.
i know this is going to sound a bit odd but industrial strength carpet cleaner works extremely well. wipe it on let it sit steel wool it and repeat once or twice and its gone
I tried the vinegar (60%) and water (40%) mix, it works quite well. Especially if you soak the parts in it. You will also need to wire brush it or some such. I read about it somewhere here in the forum while doing a search. I used this soaking method on my bumper nuts & bolts, worked really well, it saved me from having to buy new ones ($35). The post also said that if you are using it in a spray bottle on things like the frame and such, that you should neutralize the effects with baking soda and water once you have the rust off.
I think phosphoric acid solutions and the like are the second step, after sandblasting, to get the last little bits of rust the sandstorm left behind. Portable car shelter with sides and tarp floor (because otherwise sand will fly everywhere, and you may be able to reuse it). Pressure pot blaster because they're more efficient and sand flows better. Adequate air compressor (minimum 5 cfm, continuous duty or near enough, 10 or more CFM better). Additional moisture filter near the pressure pot to prevent clogging, especially in cold weather (ice!). Respirator because silicosis is less fun than it sounds, preferably a hood but goggles and a hooded rain jacket will work.
For things small enough (or if you can improvise a big enough tank) to immerse, there's citric acid solutions, hydrochloric acid, molasses, electrolyis (electricity and washing soda and a sacrificial electrode).
I read a few articles on using a Molasses/water mixture. I'm testing it out on a few metal bits right now. Looks promising. Here's one of the links I found.