Has anyone tried this and does it really work?

 

Never heard of it but I'm interested in anything that "evaporates" rust!

 

They say to soak whatever is rusty in it so not sure about large body parts, but it doesn't hurt the metal, or paint, and it is not harmful to skin or environment. I am going to get some from O'Reilly's and test it. I have tons of rusty things from my 1948 F2 to remove the rust on. And I will try wiping it on large parts to see if it works. I will post the results.

 

Evapo Rust :: Harris International Labs

 

soaking steel parts in vinegar will also remove rust. Vinegar is an acid, so you have to neutralize it afterwards with a baking soda rinse followed by a clean water rinse. After that get some primer paint on as soon as the parts are dry to prevent them from getting a new coating of surface rust.

Let us know how the evapo-rust works out.

Dan

 

I'm interested in how it works too. I'm tempted to go out and try some now. It is $20 a gallon and it says it can be reused.
Vinegar works but sometimes takes several days to get the job done.
Wire brush is a pain.

If you could take before and after pictures and how long you had to soak, that would be great.

 

I've used this product on a limited basis and it does remove the rust but only after leaving the item soaking for an extended period of time- in my case 24 hours. It does leave the metal rust free but also leaves the metal black in appearance and further surface work is needed to preserve the bare metal.
As a Woodworker and have a liking to restore old woodworking planes I find the process of Electrolysis a much better procedure for smaller to mid size items.
Electrolysis - Rust Removal

 

Daughter has gone to get some. I will have her take pics with her phone before and after and I will attempt to post them here. I am still new here so not sure how to post pics to the forums.

I do know I have to rinse it off well and paint it within a few days or it will rust back.

 

Smitty49, I just checked out your link, that is really cool, i want to try it!

I have some of that Evapo-rust, I tried some on the bottom of my cab with no result, but I submersed a bolt(from my '49 truck) in it overnight and it worked ok. Nothing really to get excited about, but it did remove rust from a bolt...

You know how a picture of restaurant hamburger looks way better than the real thing? yeah thats how it worked for me...

I ended up using a rust encapsulant on my frame and bottom of my cab. I am also going to use it on the inside of my cab floor. CHASSIS SAVER is the brand I used. I brushed it on and its not real pretty, but its some tough stuff! seems like a plastic coating almost.

 

You'll find both procedures work effectively but I think you'll find the cost of the Evaporust to be cost prohibitive. Arm and Hammer Soda Washing powder can be purchased in 55 oz quantities for around $5 and at a mixing rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon and minimal supplies within your shop you can have just as effective results and be able , depending on the container size ( I've used up to a 32 gallon plastic trash container), you can very good results for a lot less in cost!

 

I was using a product from ZEP called "Rust Remover/Dip" but I guess the environmental ***** put the stop on that product here in Calif. It sounds a lot like the Evapo-rust product though. I used it primarily to disolve surface rust on sheetmetal that had sat around the shop...nothing too extreme but it sure saved on sanding.

Here is a post from the HAMB that I did some years ago on electrolysis http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...t=electrolysis some here may find it helpful.

 

I found the Evapo-Rust on Stovebolt tech tips.

 

I used electrolysis to clean the rust out my gas tank. Worked well but took about three weeks...it was really bad!

 

Must be summer ..... and rust removing time again? I've used vinegar, molasses, electrolysis, and a variety of brush on metal prep materials, and all work to varying degrees. What I've found to be the most effective is a product that is sold at Home Depot. It's called Prep & Etch. You dip in any steel or iron product and the rust will be gone. Depending on the thickness of the rust it will take different times, but even the worst is gone in 12 hours ... at least that has been my experience.

You can get the same thing from Ace, and it's called OSPHO. Both are diluted Phosphoric acid, and you will need to use some baking soda and water solution to neutralize it, and then a final rinse with clean water. Etching primer is wise as soon as possible.

What you don't want to put in it is any of the soft metals. You will not get back what you put in!! (grin)

The Home Depot stuff goes for around $15 a gallon, and seems to last a long time. I have checked with a chemical supplier about getting a larger quantity at a higher %, and yes that is possible, but pricey. If you have the means to handle it, and the right container to then dilute what amounts to a 10 gallon tote of the high % stuff, you probably could come up with enough to dip a fender, a door, or if you have a really large container available, even a cab.

I like the Prep & Etch the most, and even for derusting large surfaces, but you do have to follow the instructions very well. It is necessary to keep any residue from forming into a rather difficult to remove coating that some paint suppliers say will make things tough for the paint to stick as expected.

I mostly do smaller parts in the dip containers, and find it very effective.

Hope this helps.

RG in Spokane

 

Okay, Don't waste your time and money on Evapo-Rust. I had bolts and some braces in there for 23 hours and no change at all. So I will use the vinegar method. It's cheap and easy to get.