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Weak brakes - controller or trailer?

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Old May 17, 2010 | 07:08 AM
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Weak brakes - controller or trailer?

I noticed the other day that my 5er brakes didn't seem to be stopping the trailer very well. I used the manual lockup slider on the controller at about 20mph to see how well they slowed the vehicle down and while I could tell they were working, they didn't do much. Admittedly, I am still using the cheap time-delay type brake controller that the dealer installed for me when we got the 5er. I know I need to upgrade to a Prodigy or something, but I was wondering if y'all thought changing controllers would fix this weak braking problem? Is there any way I can check the voltage or something at the plug? Reccomendations?

Thanks.
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 07:47 AM
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The first thing I would do is hold a compass by each wheel and have someone energize the brakes to see if all the magnets are working, next I would jack up each wheel and check the brake adjustment ( I would also give the wheel a spin and hit the brakes). Just a few easy things to try before you start tearing into things.

Denny
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 07:50 AM
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How do you check the brake adjustment?
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 08:38 AM
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Couple of thoughts. First, simply changing controllers will not do anything, unless your present controller is not working. Time delay controllers have been around for an eternity and while they may not provide the smoothest braking, they certainly provide plenty of stopping power.

The single best check is take an amp draw as that will tell you whether your controller is working and how much your magnets are drawing when fully activated. If you see somewhere between 10 and 12 amps, you electrical is good and your problem may well be mechanical in terms of brake adjustment. if you don't see adequate draw, the first step would be to make sure all connections are good and clean. A poor connection can also lead to weak or no brakes.

My thoughts,

Steve
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 08:56 AM
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Steve,

Can you give me a little direction on how to test the amp draw? I agree with your procedural reccomendations, I just don't know where or how to actually do the testing.

Thanks.
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert6401
Steve,

Can you give me a little direction on how to test the amp draw? I agree with your procedural reccomendations, I just don't know where or how to actually do the testing.

Thanks.
Sure thing,

The easiest way for most folks to do it with a clamp-on meter that is capable of reading DC amps. Just clamp it around the brake lead on the streetside of your camper where it starts back to the brakes. Have someone activate the controller while you read the meter. Ten seconds and you have a good idea what needs work.

In the absence of a clamp-on meter, you have to break the lead to the brakes at any point it is convenient and put the meter in series with the wires. That may be where your seven pin cord ties to your camper. You need a meter that can read more than 10 amps DC. Activate the controller and take a reading.

Hope that helps,

Steve
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:15 AM
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Sorry for the dumb question, but what do you mean by streetside of the camper?
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert6401
Sorry for the dumb question, but what do you mean by streetside of the camper?
By convention, the streetside of the camper is the driver's side and the curbside is the passenger side. Didn't mean to be obtuse. I think every camper runs the brakes down the driver's side first. As least everyone I can think of.

The beauty of fifth wheels is you have a natural test point in the metal pull box under your pin where the seven pin cord connects to everything. Drop the cover and all the wires are right there. You don't even have to do any crawling

Good luck,

Steve
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:36 AM
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Oh cool, that does sound good. I will look for that pull box. Is it the same box that the break-away switch is on?

Now I just need to find a clamp-on meter. Hopefully someone I know has one, cause a quick google search tells me that they aren't cheap!
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert6401
Oh cool, that does sound good. I will look for that pull box. Is it the same box that the break-away switch is on?

Now I just need to find a clamp-on meter. Hopefully someone I know has one, cause a quick google search tells me that they aren't cheap!
The pull box is the metal box where the seven pin cord attached on the bottom side of the pin box. It has a metal cover you can remove and then all the wires are exposed. You likely also will see a couple of fuses there, but that varies by rig. You are just looking for the blue lead.

What you are trying to troubleshoot here is really very easy to do with the right equipment.

I know clamp-on meters are not cheap, but once you use one, you will never go back to a simple multi-meter. Your ability to troubleshoot will increase exponentially and the time it takes will decrease dramatically. A clamp-on amp meter doesn't just tell you if you have current, it tells you how much; a critical variable to answer the majority of RV questions. In my opinion, a clamp-on meter capable of reading both AC and DC amp draw is the single most important tool someone working on RVs can own.

Steve

Steve

Steve
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 01:12 PM
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Blue lead, gotcha. I am willing to buy a clamp-on meter, but I am fairly certain my father-in-law has one because he has just about every tool imaginable up at our little family shop. I just want to check with him before I spend money unnecesarily. Thanks for your help, Steve.

Bob

Bob

Bob

just messing with ya!
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert6401
Blue lead, gotcha. I am willing to buy a clamp-on meter, but I am fairly certain my father-in-law has one because he has just about every tool imaginable up at our little family shop. I just want to check with him before I spend money unnecesarily. Thanks for your help, Steve.

Bob

Bob

Bob

just messing with ya!
I never claimed I could remember my own name!

Steve
 
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