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Old May 14, 2010 | 04:20 PM
  #1  
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Power door locks

Does anyone have a diagram showing how to remove the lock solonoids on my doors? If I could see in there, I could figure it out but I have to work by feel. Where is a good place to buy new ones?
Also, I need to replace my hood insulation. The moulded ones are quite expensive. Is there a good place to purchase one or should I just buy the cheap one and be done with it?
93 F-250
Thanks
Tom
 
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Old May 15, 2010 | 12:01 AM
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On the 'edge' of the door, there is a mount for the door solenoid, it's down near the bottom near the radius where the edge of the door rolls around to the bottom. I can't recall if it is a clip, or a rivet. That is the only 'mount' for the solenoid for the door actuator. The rod from it goes to the door lock, and the end of it if I recall is bent, and has a plastic clip that holds it into the mechanism. Other than that, just a two wire connector for the wiring portion of it.

Been a couple years since I moved them when swapping a set of doors, so it's kind of foggy!
 
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Old May 15, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by greywynd
On the 'edge' of the door, there is a mount for the door solenoid, it's down near the bottom near the radius where the edge of the door rolls around to the bottom. I can't recall if it is a clip, or a rivet. That is the only 'mount' for the solenoid for the door actuator. The rod from it goes to the door lock, and the end of it if I recall is bent, and has a plastic clip that holds it into the mechanism. Other than that, just a two wire connector for the wiring portion of it.

Been a couple years since I moved them when swapping a set of doors, so it's kind of foggy!
You are right about the rivet at the round of the door. I found it. I will probably install "after market"solonoids. A strange thing I noticed was there is only 2 wires to the solonoid, one for up and one for down. They must be using the body of the solonoid for a ground don't you think?

Thanks for the help
Tom
 
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Old May 15, 2010 | 07:05 PM
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you sure its one for up, and one for down and not just a reverse polarity switch?
 
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Old May 15, 2010 | 10:33 PM
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I think oreo is on the right track, because the solenoid doesn't bolt in tight, it actually is on a pivoting mechanism, to let it move a little as the lock mechanism moves. I never had to replace any, I replaced the doors on my dually and moved the power locks to the new doors. (The actuator just needed to move, the lock had the necessary holes etc already, kind of plug and play so to speak.)
 
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Old May 15, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by oreocreaming
you sure its one for up, and one for down and not just a reverse polarity switch?
That's exactly it, just like window motors.
 
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Old May 16, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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Thank you all for your replies. That makes sense. I was using a test light on just one wire and ground. I will try my multimeter and see if the polarity changes.
Tom
 
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Old May 18, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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Problem solved. You were right. The power "flip flops" from plus to minus to activate solonoid. There was enough power to make test light work but not enough to activate solonoid. The meter showed low voltage. There was a bad connection in the switch. Thanks for your help
Tom
 
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Old May 18, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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Did you replace the switch? Or was the connector bad?
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by LCAM-01XA
Did you replace the switch? Or was the connector bad?
When I was installing the switch, I got it in a bind when trying to stuff it through the hole in the door panel. That created a bad connection in the switch. I took the probe on my multimeter and bent the socket for the pin connection in the switch and all is well.
Thanks all for the help.
Tom
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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for the hood insulation,id head to the salvage yards and look for a solid one.
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
for the hood insulation,id head to the salvage yards and look for a solid one.
Thanks. I'll give it a shot.
Tom
 
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