Hey guys,
I'm pretty new here,and making my first restauration.
I want to install power locks (electric locks) on my Ford F1 1950
I'm pretty sure I'm not the first one that wants to do so,
'cause of the problem that you can only lock the passenger door..
So who can help me with finding and placing the right parts?
thanks!
Tom

 

Tom, Welcome to FTE.
We would love to see pictures of your truck.
As for the power locks, I haven't done it, but it should be fairly straightforward.
Both doors lock, just the passenger door has the key. So It shouldn't make much of a difference where the key hole is.
You can buy the components just about anywhere.
Here is the page at LMC Truck.
LMC Truck Parts - Page 12

Here is mid fifty's which is a very popular supplier here:
Mid Fifty F-100 Parts - Remote Lock-unlock With Lights & Sound

Guys that have done it will be along shortly to give you tips.

 

You can't do it the way you think with the original locks. The locks don't just trip a lever like in a modern latch. You have to turn the key 360 degrees which turns a bolt. Power lock motors don't work that way. You'll need to replace the entire latch mechanism with a modern unit to have power locks.

 

ok,so I need to buy a whole new locking mechanism?
Also new locks for the doors,or can I keep those?
It wil be quite a challenge,with the window in the way there isn't a lot of room to work..
Someone already changed the locking mechanism?
This is something completely new to me,never done that before,so..
Thanks for the reply's already!

 

Welcome to FTE. Get yourself a Shop Manual. A lot of your questions will be answered in there.

 

Welcome. If you find a good cheap solution please let us know. I looked at this too but gave up and just bought the drivers side door lock. I have my doors all apart for restoration so that's not a problem. To disassemble this might help you out.
04-Door and Window Regulator Removal (Scott's 1956 Ford ProjectF100) - YouTube

 

Ok,doesn't look like rocketscience,so thanks for the video!!
Does anyone know how the lock itself works?
I mean,when I turn the handle the other way,the door is locked..
I understand the way to open the lock works,but not how it stays 'locked'.
Because on the outside it is not possible to open the door then..
The way I see it now,is that I need to find a motor that slides the bar from the lock to the locking possition? That's not much different from the way the modern locks work?

 

The door latches doesn't come apart like that on the 48-52. It's riveted together. I don't see a way to add auto locks on the stock lock. I think you will need to change to a bear claw style lock or an Altman Latch. the altman latches allows you to decide if you want to us the stock door handle. I want the Altman latches

 

I don't know much about the earlier year trucks, except the latch mechanism was pretty rudimentary and has a nasty habit of unlatching when the truck hits a bump or goes around a corner. Since you want to upgrade to electric locks anyhow, I'd recommend upgrading the mechanism to something safer and more dependable while you are at it. The aftermarket suppliers offer replacement latches commonly referred to a "bear claw" latches. These do require some modifications to the door and door pillar to install. Actually those latches are the same design you find on most cars and trucks today, so they can be obtained for very little money at any U-pull salvage yard. Just look for the characteristic bar type catch with a claw or beak like hook in the latch that grabs it. Go out and look carefully at you DD to see one and how it mounts and works. If you take them out of a vehicle with power locks, you can get the solenoids, linkage, and all.
On the 56 Ford started using the star type mechanism, a great improvement but still needs to be adjusted carefully to be secure. If you look in my "making changes" gallery (to see my galleries, click on my user name at the top right of this post and a menu will fly out, click on view gallery, then on the specific gallery and finally on the thumbnail you want to see larger, or click on the first thumbnail and then use the next and back buttons to look at all you want) you can see pix of how I modified my OEM star latches to electric operation. I decided to leave my stock locks operational as well. I have a cutom cab, so it has a lock on both doors. I changed my inside handles as well as installed power windows. If you put the latch in the door uoy will need to provide a method of routing the wires to the solenoids and install switches someplace. My switches are going in my center console.

 

Instead of the normal motors they use in the cheap powerlock kits,
couldn't I use a motor like this?
2002 - 2005 Ford Explorer Door Lock Actuator, Front Right, Rear Right (part#746-162)#
It looks like the motor makes the 180° movement I need?
Someone has experience with motors like this?
I'm from Europe,they are not commonly used here..
Greetz
Tom

 

Power lock kits don't use motors, they use solenoid actuators. A motor has a shaft that turns spinning gears or such. A solenoid uses an electro magnet that slides a core back and forth inside a coil. Solenoids are efficient, simple, have basically one moving part that doesn't require any bearings, they are cheap and dependable. They can be made in low to high power versions, and in single with spring return or double action. Since a door lock needs a short linear movement to operate the mechanism, a solenoid actuator is the best choice. The ones in your link are actually solenoids, note they call them actuators, not motors. Those have advantages and likewise disadvantages over the ones in a power lock kit. First, they are quite expensive, you can buy a complete kit for the price of one of those, but they are OEM quality, so you can be assured they will operate the lock. Those look like they mount right on the lock mechanism and the lever operates the lock directly. That is also their disadvantage, they need to mount on a lock mechanism they were designed for, or be custom adapted. The straight push-pull solenoids in a power lock kit are much more easily adapted, they are not throw length sensitive. I'd recommend going with the kit setup, they are dependable, easily hooked up and inexpensive.
You can see how I modified my locks to work with and mounted my kit lock solenoids in my "making changes" gallery.

 

Sorry,
but no can do.
I can't use the regular solenoid kit. My lock uses also a linear movement,but in 2 steps.Step 1 from 0 to 90° from lock to loose,and step 2 is when you push the leverage on the inside to open the lock.Thats from 90° to 180°.Thats why I can't use the standard solenoid.It can only make 1 of the two steps..
Btw; my lock looks totally different from the lock i've seen on your photos.

 

Yes, mine is a 56. I had to drill a hole in my mechanism for the actuator rod after I studied how it works. I only use mine to lock and unlock the doors not to open them. I open the doors with the inside and outside handles. If you are wanting to open the doors as well, then I would suggest changing your latches to late model or aftermarket bear claw style. The pre 56 latches were famous for popping open over RR tracks or potholes, even when adjusted tight. To be operated by a solenoid the latches need to operate easily with little to no drag. Have you checked to see if the actuators you speced actually turn 180*? I'll be surprised if the move more than 90* or in more than 1 step. I don't know very many factory electric doors that do more than lock/unlock. I don't know if the auto safety dictators would allow factory electric latches, at least here in the US.
All the shaved handle installs I've seen just bypass using the locking mechanism and use a solenoid to trip the latch. Without handles there isn't much need for locking the doors.

 

Guess I must be explaining it wrong.
I will take some pictures later on this day to explain more.
I dont want the locks to open,but the metal bar who connects my lock with my handle,makes two moves.
So if I connect a simple solenoid,to make the move between lock and loose,I can't open my door anymore from the inside,because that same metal bar who moves from 0° to 90° between lock and unlock,makes a second move when I push my handle to open my door,and thats the move from 90° to 180°.So if I just connect my solenoid I could make the switch between lock and unlock,but could never open my door again from the inside because of the second move.In my lock there is NO piece that doesnt make the second move.So I can't find a place to attach my solenoid to to only make the lock unlock movement.
My question was;
Do these "actuators" make an other movement?
Because of the fact that I can't use the solenoid.
If they also make the movement between lock and unlock but would be able to move along when I open my lock from the inside and make the 90° to 180° turn,then my problem is solved.

 

Ok **** the easy or cheap way!
I'm tired of trying to figure out a way to integrate power locks!
Can someone just give me A way to install these on a F1 1950?
Don't care anymore about the price..