Sorry to bother you guys AGAIN! BUT! I switched the tranny out, put in a new throw out bearing, and changed the clutch slave to a new one. I am having the same damn problem as before! What could be left?
Here's the deal:
I put all new stuff in and I get to shift through the gears about 3 times, and then it starts as I let the clutch out, grinding. ALL the gears. We can bleed the shifting system, and it will let me go about 2 - 3 times again and then it starts grinding again as I let the clutch out.
What the hell is going on? Any ideas?
I need some new ideas before I blow up the truck! I can't keep wasteing money on new parts I don't need. Any idea guys?
Rick - The confused <!-- / controls -->
<!-- message, attachments, sig --><!-- post 8876105 popup menu -->
<!-- / post 8876105 popup menu --><!-- / post #8876105 --><!-- post #8876138 --><TABLE id=post8876138 class=tborder border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center itxtvisited="1"><TBODY itxtvisited="1"><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD class=thead itxtvisited="1"><!-- status icon and date --><!-- / status icon and date -->
</TD></TR><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class=alt2 itxtvisited="1"><!-- user info --><!-- / user info --></TD></TR><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD id=td_post_8876138 class=alt1 itxtvisited="1">By the way it is currently sitting on the street until I can get a tow home. This is the very same exact problem that started this whole thread and all my questions.
<!-- / message --></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlheim

We can bleed the shifting system, and it will let me go about 2 - 3 times again and then it starts grinding again

So, you can bleed the clutch, everything works fine for 2-3 times until the
grinding (presumably, transmission) begins again. You can repeat this process ad
nauseum and the same symptoms keep recurring, correct?

This tells me to look at the hydraulics of the clutch... master & slave cylinders
and inter-connecting plumbing.

 

I once had a mechanical clutch that wouldn't release correctly, I found out why when I took it
apart... it had obviously gotten very wet inside, then it was parked for a LONG time. This
resulted in all sorts of corrosion and rust and pitting of the flywheel underneath the pressure
plate.

 

Yep that is about it. I just got back from my tryout last night. I had the clutch bled, good pedal, went about 4 blocks and shifted a couple of times and, GRIND!
I went out today and pumped it up again and drove it home just fine! the tranny shifts just fine too. But after 3-4 shifts.........................
I have a new slave cyl on there, I just put it on yesterday. People were telling me that was the problem. NOPE! Still does it. I have not replaced the master cyl because it is 100$.
When the grinding starts the pedal still feels just fine.
I do have to go to the floor to shift though. I always had that problem very low pedal. Guy at the junk yard told me there is no way to adjust the pedal on this truck.
Recap. ***Everything*** is new on the trany system except the clutch plate, and the master cyl.
Any ideas?
Rick

 

Well, if the clutch needs continual bleeding (to get the air out) wouldn't that mean air is
somehow getting in all the time? Are there any obvious leaks in the plumbing? If not, the
master cylinder sounds suspicious to me.

I have got -zero- experience with hydraulic clutches and don't know anything about their
adjustability (low pedal) nor how to test the components for proper operation so I can't help
there.

 

Master cylinder.

When a m/c & it's seals are worn or failing, the fluid slowly gets past the piston & seals while under pressure & back to the reservoir, so you progressively lose pedal. A few quick pumps on the clutch pedal (or brake when that's the issue) will often restore pedal temporarily, until the fluid slowly gets past again. A bad slave cylinder would usually just cause you to lose fluid.

I think a new m/c will sort your problems.

 

RockAuto has Clutch master cylinders for your truck starting at $25.

 

you know, I was just out there at the truck. When it starts the grinding, pumping the pedal doesn't seem to do any thing. As a matter of fact it seems to get worse. Still pressure on the pedal but you can't shift at all, and almost like you can hear very very slight light grind, Seems like you can hear a little noise like maybe the throw out bearing? Which is brand new and maybe shifted thru about 15 -20 times.
I will try to look for this Rock auto parts or whatever it is and see. Autozone and Advanced have mine for 100.00$
Whatever is going on haere I'm about to lose my mind over. It'
s crazy crazy crazy!
Rick

 

Master cyl at half price to autozone. I just got one THANKS for the tip.
Rick

 

I'll be doing the clutch master cyl monday it came yesterday! That's fast shipping.
Does anyone know how to secure the firewall from bending when I push the clutch in? I see my bends quite a bit. I know that can't be a good thing.

 

Huh, I wonder if that firewall flex wasn't the cause of your entire problem, I totally forgot about
that (mine is a 1981 with a mechanical clutch + factory reinforcements and doesn't have that
problem).

Read this entire thread (part numbers are corrected midway):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...in-issues.html

 

I'm really surprised that your clutch works at first and gets worse in a few uses, then goes back to working.
What year is the truck in question? (so you can get the right reinforcement plate)

There are two different reinforcement kits available through Ford.
I used the smaller one "for moderate damage" which only requires removing the clutch master cylinder, The larger "severe damage" one requires removal of the steering column and brake booster as well.

FYI, this is the post you need:

Quote:

Originally Posted by PARTSGUYED.com

clutch master cyl reinforcement bracket for moderately damaged firewall

E3TZ7K509A

For severely damaged firewall use

E3TZ7K509B

Ed

Hope this helps..

Sucks that you replaced everything else before you figured it out

 

I think the master cylinder is still faulty; if the flexing was the whole problem, the clutch would act consistently. But I would also fit the reinforcement plate to save the firewall.

 

Honestly I don't think the firewall is the compete issue. I am going to change the master cyl tomorrow when it stops raining.
The issue is that I get the system bled, drive a few blocks and shift and then lt seems like the clutch wants to grind. I stop, bleed the sytem again get it set, and I can drive a few blocks and wham grinding again. We just noticed the wall moving the other day.
Since I will have the master cyl off I thiught I would fix the wall problem too If I can get the part to fix that too. May as well. Is this a delaer part only? Can I make one pretty easy?

 

Cheap enough at the dealer, but not found aftermarket.
There are numerous TSB's on this problem.

My kit came as a flanged triangular plate about 1/8" thick w/ a hole for the m/c, 2 longer m/c studs and 1/2 a dozen or so bolts with distorted lock nuts.
The plate bolts through the transmission tunnel, and the firewall.
I had to clearance the flange around the steering column to get a socket on one or more of the nuts
Here's a pic of mine in place: