GP controller/relay problem...
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,945
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I know what youre saying about making a test light, i ended up doing something similar. But now my problem gets even more interesting. See when i was checking the relay, i unhooked the IP so that the clicking wouldnt interfere with my less than stellar hearing. The relay clicked so i assumed that the points in it were bad, but now i was doing some checking, the relay for the GP's will only click if the IP is is disconected, ie the high idle, fuel cut off and the other one, whether its a return line valve or advance im not sure.... does this make any sense? Are all 4 of those key on hot wires off of the same curcuit? Keep in mind this is in my 79, the wire i used to hook up to the k.o.h. was a now would be unused 12v wire for the ignition on the gasser. IIRC i only had to hook up one k.o.h. wire to the engine harness. Im planning on getting a relay/controller from the JY today or 2maro as they only want "3 or 4 bucks" for the both, but obviously a good relay isnt going to help my situation if it only kicks on when the IP is unhooked. If anyone knows a possible cause of this (controller maybe) or solution im all ears. The only thing i can think of is running another k.o.h for the GP relay only, but i would like to keep it as simple as possible, and as origional as i can when it comes to the engine harness.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I know what youre saying about making a test light, i ended up doing something similar. But now my problem gets even more interesting. See when i was checking the relay, i unhooked the IP so that the clicking wouldnt interfere with my less than stellar hearing. The relay clicked so i assumed that the points in it were bad, but now i was doing some checking, the relay for the GP's will only click if the IP is is disconected, ie the high idle, fuel cut off and the other one, whether its a return line valve or advance im not sure.... does this make any sense? Are all 4 of those key on hot wires off of the same curcuit? Keep in mind this is in my 79, the wire i used to hook up to the k.o.h. was a now would be unused 12v wire for the ignition on the gasser. IIRC i only had to hook up one k.o.h. wire to the engine harness. Im planning on getting a relay/controller from the JY today or 2maro as they only want "3 or 4 bucks" for the both, but obviously a good relay isnt going to help my situation if it only kicks on when the IP is unhooked. If anyone knows a possible cause of this (controller maybe) or solution im all ears. The only thing i can think of is running another k.o.h for the GP relay only, but i would like to keep it as simple as possible, and as origional as i can when it comes to the engine harness.
First assumption, both battery grounds are to the engine block like it was in the donor truck.
If the glow plug relay will only click when you have the IP unhooked, it sounds like your ignition wire from the switch may not be supplying enough voltage for everything to be on at once.
A relay that supplies battery power to the IP and glow plug relay that is triggered by the ignition wire may fix your problem.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 443
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From: Bear, DE
Well, while the relay isn't clicking anymore.
There is one problem (well, 2 really). On a cold start, the WTS light DOES NOT come on. In fact, the controller doesn't click them on for 10 seconds either. The only way to get the WTS light on and the plugs to fire is if I push my over ride button. Now, I hooked the new relay up EXACTLY like the old one was. I'm kinda stumped.
There is one problem (well, 2 really). On a cold start, the WTS light DOES NOT come on. In fact, the controller doesn't click them on for 10 seconds either. The only way to get the WTS light on and the plugs to fire is if I push my over ride button. Now, I hooked the new relay up EXACTLY like the old one was. I'm kinda stumped.
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