Strange pattern on brake rotor
#16
Let me make sure I understand this, the warped rotor is on the right front and the uneven pads are on the right rear correct? No matter what I would replace the rotor, but what is the cause of all this right sided stuff? Hose blockage, proportioning valve, line kink? The rear pads may be a result of them working harder, or maybe even sticking slightly them selves. I can't remember off hand if the proportioning valve distributes the fluid right and left, or front and back, or both. It seems there may be issues on the whole right side. What I am trying to say here is don't just replace the damaged part, find the cause or you will be spending money on this issue again in a few months.
Last edited by jimmyb08SD; 05-10-2010 at 10:48 PM. Reason: spelling
#17
Let me make sure I understand this, the warped rotor is on the right front and the uneven pads are on the right rear correct? No matter what I would replace the rotor, but what is the cause of all this right sided stuff? Hose blockage, proportioning valve, line kink? The rear pads may be a result of them working harder, or maybe even sticking slightly them selves. I can't remember off hand if the proportioning valve distributes the fluid right and left, or front and back, or both. It seems there may be issues on the whole right side. What I am trying to say here is don't just replace the damaged part, find the cause or you will be spending money on this issue again in a few months.
#18
OK. Just so everybody's on the same page. The left side(both front and rear) looked pretty good with just normal wear. The right front rotor was definitely warped, but the pads looked brand new, like someone just put a set on. Along with that, the right front caliper shows signs of leaking, but it had a bad bleeder valve. So, I don't know if that's the issue there.
The right rear inside pad was worn to almost nothing. But the right rear outside pad was only worn about halfway.
I think what may have happened is that the leaking caliper may have led to the right front rotor overheating, warping the rotor (or visa-versa) and that may have caused the right rear to have to work harder.
In any event, I've replaced the bad rotor, bleeder valve, and the right rear pads to get me through the week (about 25 miles). And next weekend I'll check the right front caliper to see if it's still leaking or not and replace it if needed. And I'll pull the other rotors, have them resurfaced, and install the rest of the new pads.
I don't really like having to do a brake job in phases like this, but it was necessary in this case because I need the truck to get to work. Hopefully everything will be all rebuilt next weekend.
The right rear inside pad was worn to almost nothing. But the right rear outside pad was only worn about halfway.
I think what may have happened is that the leaking caliper may have led to the right front rotor overheating, warping the rotor (or visa-versa) and that may have caused the right rear to have to work harder.
In any event, I've replaced the bad rotor, bleeder valve, and the right rear pads to get me through the week (about 25 miles). And next weekend I'll check the right front caliper to see if it's still leaking or not and replace it if needed. And I'll pull the other rotors, have them resurfaced, and install the rest of the new pads.
I don't really like having to do a brake job in phases like this, but it was necessary in this case because I need the truck to get to work. Hopefully everything will be all rebuilt next weekend.
#19
Yes he did say that, but I asked if the uneven pads were on the R.R. and they are, so there is something strange going on, on the right side both front and back. I would like to see the back side of that rotor, and the pads from the rear. I am very curious now! I certainly don't think this will be as simple as replacing the rotor, something caused that rotor to warp, if it is indeed warped. And something is causing the uneven wear on the rear, maybe related, maybe separate issues. Keep us posted this may be a good learning Exp.
#20
Yes he did say that, but I asked if the uneven pads were on the R.R. and they are, so there is something strange going on, on the right side both front and back. I would like to see the back side of that rotor, and the pads from the rear. I am very curious now! I certainly don't think this will be as simple as replacing the rotor, something caused that rotor to warp, if it is indeed warped. And something is causing the uneven wear on the rear, maybe related, maybe separate issues. Keep us posted this may be a good learning Exp.
#21
You are probably right, seems odd the rotor looks like that and the pads are in almost new condition. maybe they put new pads on it right before they sold it to him.
#22
OK... time for an update. Once I started actually going through the brakes, it became apparent that the previous owner really wasn't big on the whole "maintenance" philosophy I subscribe to, even though he was apparently aware of the problems enough to throw a new set of pads on the front to try hide some of the issues when he sold the truck.
The front right rotor was shot, including a huge gouge on the inside, probably from letting the pads wear to nothing. The other three rotors were worn way past their service limits. Both front calipers were leaking. The right one was so bad, that when I sprayed the crap off, it was actually dripping just sitting there in the driveway. The right rear caliper pins were dry and worn to the point of binding, which I have concluded is what caused the uneven wear on the pads on that corner. I didn't actually see anything wrong with the left rear caliper, but I put a new one on just for piece of mind. And the brake fluid was obviously factory original, so I flushed it.
So, after all is said and done, I ended up doing a full brake job; four new rotors, four new calipers, new pads front and rear, and a fluid flush. And in between all that, I had the cruise control recall done, replaced the shifter stalk to fix the non-functioning overdrive defeat button, changed the oil and filters, and installed the 10 missing COP bolts. (By the way, the local stealership wanted $8 EACH for those 10 bolts. WHAT? It's not like I'm working on the Space Shuttle here! They're just regular old 50-cent bolts.)
But, at least I know I won't have to worry about the brakes for a while. Now, I just have to address the bad ball joints, worn out sway bar bushings, leaking front axle seal, and broken exhaust studs I discovered while I was fixing the brakes. And, since I'm getting a pretty good idea of how the truck was treated in its former life, I'll do the front unit bearings, needle bearings, and tie rods while I have it torn apart for the ball joints.
Now I just have to find the time to do it all. Working 6-12's is good for financing parts, but bad for scheduling... And I refuse to fork over my hard earned cash to an overpriced shop to do shoddy work that I can do cheaper and better. It's a good thing I'm happy with the price I paid for this rig. Otherwise, I could really start to get irritated with the situation. But, instead, I'm just going to have a beer, relax, and console myself in the knowledge that I've rescued this poor truck from its abusive owner. I'm sure it'll thank me by doing everything I ask of it for years to come.
The front right rotor was shot, including a huge gouge on the inside, probably from letting the pads wear to nothing. The other three rotors were worn way past their service limits. Both front calipers were leaking. The right one was so bad, that when I sprayed the crap off, it was actually dripping just sitting there in the driveway. The right rear caliper pins were dry and worn to the point of binding, which I have concluded is what caused the uneven wear on the pads on that corner. I didn't actually see anything wrong with the left rear caliper, but I put a new one on just for piece of mind. And the brake fluid was obviously factory original, so I flushed it.
So, after all is said and done, I ended up doing a full brake job; four new rotors, four new calipers, new pads front and rear, and a fluid flush. And in between all that, I had the cruise control recall done, replaced the shifter stalk to fix the non-functioning overdrive defeat button, changed the oil and filters, and installed the 10 missing COP bolts. (By the way, the local stealership wanted $8 EACH for those 10 bolts. WHAT? It's not like I'm working on the Space Shuttle here! They're just regular old 50-cent bolts.)
But, at least I know I won't have to worry about the brakes for a while. Now, I just have to address the bad ball joints, worn out sway bar bushings, leaking front axle seal, and broken exhaust studs I discovered while I was fixing the brakes. And, since I'm getting a pretty good idea of how the truck was treated in its former life, I'll do the front unit bearings, needle bearings, and tie rods while I have it torn apart for the ball joints.
Now I just have to find the time to do it all. Working 6-12's is good for financing parts, but bad for scheduling... And I refuse to fork over my hard earned cash to an overpriced shop to do shoddy work that I can do cheaper and better. It's a good thing I'm happy with the price I paid for this rig. Otherwise, I could really start to get irritated with the situation. But, instead, I'm just going to have a beer, relax, and console myself in the knowledge that I've rescued this poor truck from its abusive owner. I'm sure it'll thank me by doing everything I ask of it for years to come.
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