OK. I'm a Ford newb. I just bought my F250 this week, and I'm starting to go over everything to verify condition and do any necessary maintenance. I have a pretty fair amount of experience wrenching on other cars, mostly my Jeep. But, this is something I haven't seen before. There's a very odd pattern showing on my right front brake rotor. It looks like a series of waves all the way around the rotor.

<a href="http://s895.photobucket.com/albums/ac157/ak-angler/2003%20F250/?action=view&current=rotor1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac157/ak-angler/2003%20F250/rotor1.jpg" border="0" alt="Right front brake rotor"></a>

I'm hoping that someone can tell me 1) What would cause this? and 2) What's the best way to fix it? Get the rotor turned, or replace it? Caliper replacement in order?

Some additional info... The pads on this corner look nearly new. All the others show varying amounts of wear, most about half worn. All the other rotors look fine. There is an indication that the caliper on this corner may be leaking. There is a slight squeal sometimes when I'm slowing to a stop, but I can't tell where it's coming from. The truck pulls some to the left, and the steering wheel pulses some when braking. Also, the inner pad on the right rear is worn almost to nothing; the outer is fine. Left side brakes look fine.

As this is my only rig right now, I don't want to deal with getting a ride to a shop to have the rotors turned just to find out that it didn't fix the problem. But I also don't want to spend money on new parts if I can just resurface the rotors and everything will be good to go, either. So, what do I do here?


I can't seem to post a sig line, so here's my info:

2003 F250, XLT, extended cab, long bed, 4x4, V10, FX4 package, 120K miles.
This truck is new to me, so I don't know it's history.

 

I would guess if you have a leak on the right side the pads is skipping across the rotor, pulling to the left is indicating the left brake is working better than the right. Repair the leak and see what happens.

 

While your in there you should check the slide pins on the calipers. Here is a good site that many on FTE use for maint. Welcome to guzzle's Ford PSD Maintenance Web Page

Welcome to FTE!

 

Looks like they're warped, I bet you have a little pulsation when stopping. They got hot at some point, which isn't hard to do on the 99-04 trucks. You can have it turned as long as it's still within spec. Alot of shops just replace them, as they're not that expensive.

 

jimmyb- Yeah, I understand that the left side brakes are working better than the right. I don't know if that's related to the odd pattern on the right front rotor, or the uneven wear on the right rear. So I thought I'd post as much info as I could.

wallz- Thanks for the heads up on the slide pins. And for the link. Lots of good info there.

wizardsr- Yeah, there's a slight pulse in the pedal, as well as the steering wheel. That's actually why the brakes were the first thing I decided to go through. It's best to start with the obvious problems, right?

So, if these trucks have issues with the brakes overheating, do you guys think I should spring for an upgrade? Or (since I probably won't be towing more than my 4000# boat in the near future) will replacement units from my local NAPA or O'Reilley's be OK? Or would you just see if they can be resurfaced and save a few bucks?

On a side note, the brake fluid needs replaced too. It's pretty nasty looking. Guess I'm gonna have to use my "phone a friend" for that...

 

If you can replace brakes, you can change the fluid.

What I do is, just bleed each corner until you get fresh fluid out of it. Those little $5 one-way bleeder valves are awesome if you don't have a helper. Just remember to stop often and check the MC fluid level.

As for the pattern, that is a classic warped rotor pattern. I like to replace warped rotors instead of turning them, but if you're short on cash get them turned. It should be cheaper than the replacement rotors.

 

Warped rotors.

Can't tell how bad the corrosion environment where you are, but I always recommend removal of calipers, slides, and rebuild the calipers while you are at it.

Do it in pairs (on same axle).

I would replace the rotors.

Keep the old ones, and if you ever get real broke, if they are still tunable, you can have them turned and slap it on to replace the other ones.

 

It a heat signature from over working that side. your seeing a difference in heat from the cooling fins on the inside of the rotor.
Best way to fix is replace but use a quality rotor not the cheaper ones. new brake pads and full system flush of the fluid. Use a pressure bleeder like motive tools of gunson ez-bleed so you don't run the master Cly seals over the gunk.

44dwarf

 

When you go for parts go to Ford. Ask for loaded calipers the kind the Techs throw in. Caliper, break pads, mounting bracket this gets you new slide pins and new bores for the slide pins to mate with. Personally I'd replace the rotor with a new one.

 

What do the updated slide pins look like in comparrison to the originals...what is the difference between the 2?

I bought some from O'reilley's, and they did not have the rubber "sleeve" on the end...

 

If you look on guzzle's site, he has a picture and part #'s. The link is above.

 

Thanks guys. I've never had a vehicle with a "warped" rotor before. And I've certainly never seen that wavy looking pattern. I don't think it makes much sense to reuse a rotor that's been hot enough to show damage like that. Seems to me that there'll be some depth to the damage and while resurfacing may smooth it out, it won't fix it. So it looks like I'll just replace it and be done with it. That, along with new pads, updated slides, a fluid change, and a close look at the calipers while I have it apart should just about do it.

Oh, and the uneven wear on the right rear pads is probably the sliders sticking, right?

 

The uneven wear could be the slide pin, but I would bet it is also caused by the warped rotor. Because of the warp, the rotor is making the pad move outward little and it isn't making full contact. With one side in full contact and one side not, you will see uneven wear.

Still, replacing the slide pins is cheap insurance. When it comes to brakes I don't like to cut corners.

 

I had the same problem when i bought my truck last summer.

I replaced the calipers with loaded ones. I replaced the rotors with the PowerSlot Cryo rotors. They were pricey, but are supposed to be more resistant to warping. They still look new. I used the Hawk LTS pads. I also flushed the brake fluid. It looked like swamp water... Stops like a champ now.

 

I have Powerslots on the rear and Napa premium rotors on the front, and I don't notice much, if any difference, other than the Powerslots were about $40 more apiece. I have Napa premium pads on all four corners, and they seen to work really well.

You can resurface them, but since they are already warped, they will probably warp again.

You should check the slide pins as the others have directed you, but I don't think that is the issue with the one corner that is almost completely worn on one side. Our calipers have a square cut o ring that causes the piston to return. When the brakes or rotors get worn past a certain point, the square cut o ring can't return the piston and causes the inside pad to wear extremely fast. You can get a rebuilt, pre loaded caliper from Napa, which is about as cheap as trying to rebuild your and putting in new pads.