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cab rust in dark places

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Old May 2, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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cab rust in dark places

I pulled the shoulder harness in my 78 reg. cab and in my 78 supercab and looked down between the sheet metal and i saw some areas that had a surface rust that you could almost rub off with your finger. Some spots are a little more than that but still not to bad for 32 year old trucks. The supercab may be a little worse at the bottom of the cab corner but not much and no way to tell how bad it really is. Everything seems solid so i guess my question is if i can expect, based on your guys experiance, to get many more years out of these cabs with just the small amount of light rust after 32 years. I guess im hopeing to ease my mind as i keep putting money into these trucks.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 06:41 AM
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I would give fluid film a try, it last long and really works. I use it on my dent, car, snowblower etc,....

Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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If you haven't tried Fluid Film before and live in the U.S., just shoot me a PM with your contact info and I'll ship out a sample can for free.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 12:03 AM
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I sent you my info. Thanks for the offer cannot wait to try it out.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by DanoFF50
If you haven't tried Fluid Film before and live in the U.S., just shoot me a PM with your contact info and I'll ship out a sample can for free.
interesting.. so is this a paint or a oil? what is the MSRP of it (like a spray can) only odd places near me sell that that dont have website.

what is your vs things like POR or any of the "rust eliminator" products (two separate category's of product there a remover and a paint over)
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 03:20 AM
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It is a waxy oil that won't evaporate like wd40 will, but I doubt it will last as long as heavy duty anti rust from eastwood. I have used both, and like them both. Fluid film says that their stuff wont dry out in an enclosed space, but i prefer something that leaves a thick coating like hd antirust, but it wont creep across surfaces like fluid film, so if it is a very difficult place to get, use fluid film. I am going to use a combination of the two, but you have to use the fluid film last as nothing else will stick to a wet surface.

You wont get por15 in there, especially since you have to do a multi step process that involves washing with water to neutralize, which is out of the question inside your cab.

My suggestion is get a few cans of fluid film and spray a ton of it all around the perimeter after pulling out your headliner, pull out the light switches on the door jambs and spray in there and use hd anti rust inside your doors where water runs and underside corners of hood.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 07:12 AM
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One thing that rust out the cab corners, there is no drain holes. After years of service these trucks will begin to leak in water at the roof seam. The water drips down to the lower cab corners and has no place to drain. I think it helps to at least drill several 1/8" drain holes below the lower cab corners to counter act this rust problem.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 08:17 AM
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Make sure your rain gutters still have seam sealer in them. After 32 years I'd bet it's starting to fall out. Thats a way water can get into the pillars and run down into the pinch welds and to the lower cab corners. The pillars are a real bad place to get rust started. Once it gets started between the pinch welds there is no way to get in between the panels with a blaster to stop the rust from coming back.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mark a.
Make sure your rain gutters still have seam sealer in them. After 32 years I'd bet it's starting to fall out. Thats a way water can get into the pillars and run down into the pinch welds and to the lower cab corners. The pillars are a real bad place to get rust started. Once it gets started between the pinch welds there is no way to get in between the panels with a blaster to stop the rust from coming back.
Is there a way to pull the old seam sealer out and put back some new stuff?
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by berry1234
Is there a way to pull the old seam sealer out and put back some new stuff?
4 1/2 " angle grinder with a mild wire wheel attachment from your local hardware store will strip it out, then clean, apply self etching primer, seam sealer, then primer, then paint. If you arent re-painting, then just apply it over the cracks. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY. don't smear gobs on like the maaco shop retards. A tube with an 1/8 " hole and a bead just enough to tool smooth with a clean finger will be sufficient.

Do this repair BEFORE using the fluid film.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4 Bart
One thing that rust out the cab corners, there is no drain holes. After years of service these trucks will begin to leak in water at the roof seam. The water drips down to the lower cab corners and has no place to drain. I think it helps to at least drill several 1/8" drain holes below the lower cab corners to counter act this rust problem.
Condensation is a bigger threat. (ever have a moist interior w/ fogged up windows?) That means you have water dropplets covering the underside of the roof which drip down every day in some climates. Make sure you replace all weatherstrip and run the A/C or heater every time you get in the truck in moist climate.
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 11:49 AM
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Good point. After it rains it is a tad humid in my cab, yet nothing is wet and I can't see where it would leak from.
 
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