I would go ahead and completely remove the PCM, then re-install it, making sure the clip Ron is talking about goes into place. Unscrew the connector under the hood and the little bolts holding the plastic case, then just remove the whole thing, look it over, and re-install.

You can download an owners manual with a fuse diagram here https://www.flmowner.com/servlet/Con...ionalEventPage

 

Where is this clip he's talking about. Sorry for all the ?'s. After I couldn't get it to start I did remove the unit and have it here with me now. I'm going to go ahean and take the 5.5 mm bolts out and take a look at the board.

 

if you look where the 2 mounting bolts that holds the jacket with the PCM to the kick panel,you will see right next to one of the bolts a slit about 1/2 inch long..there should be the flat clip sticking out with a hole in it for the mounting bolt.. on the inside that clip looks like a V so when you push the PCM into the jacket it will squeeze the V together and make a good contact against the PCM...

 

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NOTE: The number found on the processor is an ID engineering number, not the actual Ford part number.

There are no Ford part numbers marked on any parts after 1956.

 

who was that masked man??


i see your still hard at work Bill... thanks for the part#

 

Thank you guys so much for all the input so far. Being a newbie here I didn't know what kind of reaction I might get. Well I took the ECM apart and made sure both sides of the board were clean reinstalled and nothing. I took a test light and checked all the fuses and all was good. I guess its probably a pretty sure thing I smoked the computer huh? BTW non of the dash lights go out now.

 

I have read some guys had good results using a place called Auto Computer exchange. I believe they are in Fl as Chris said. Good luck.

 

i had a similar no-start issue with a chip install once (twice, 2 diffrent trucks, one was a cleaning issue, the other was just plain stupid mistake). Need to make sure the contacts are CLEAN, use very fine emery cloth and finish with pencil eraser. look very close, may sure you got the coating off the contacts, but not the contact off the board, its very easy to go too far. Its always safe to pull BOTH battery cables, BOTH positives and touch them to ground or wait several minutes before disconnecting the ECM. I found it best to stand on a 6 inch step and reach in under the hood with my left arm to get the socket started, or remove the air box (6637 flipped off to the side) and use about 12 inches or so of extension with a 10mm socket. There are 2 5.5mm headed screws inside, when removed, the ECM tilts up a little bit and rolls out. Pay attention to the ground clip that should stay in the plastic housing until you remove the EMC for cleaning. Make sure the clip goes back. For more than 1 reason, I never put the plastic port cover back in the ECM, I make sure I can remove the chip without removing the ECM (only after disconnecting the batteries)

The first time I tried installing a DP tuner (before Jody was in GA), It was on a sunday and I did everything the newbie way and freaked out when my truck would not start. Jody actually answered the phone on a sunday (actually it was diane) and I was told it was just a contact issuse, just take it back apart and make sure the contacts were clean. Thats all it was and I have had **** eating grin when I am on the throttle ever since.....