Hubs?
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From: FT Knox
Hubs?
Well once again I am hunting for parts I can't seem to get a lead on. I took off the front hubs on my 60 F100 today to pack the front bearings and replace the grease seals if needed. To my dismay I when I started to take off the driver's side hub, I saw that it was very loose on the spindle. I took it off, and it had apparently been run like this for a while, and the hub was worn where the seal should be. There was no seal, and at least by my estimation, the hub is ruined. Does anyone know whether it can be repaired, and if not, where to get another one. I looked at Ebay, LMC truck, Rockauto, etc., but no luck. Thanks to anyone who has a suggestion.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
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From: Poway, Ca.
I would find it hard to believe that the hub itself is worn that much without you knowing it.
It's held in place by the bearings and races. The only seal is a grease seal on the back side. It could be the bearings and races are shot and what you are thinking is "hub" is actually the bearing race.
A picture of the damage would sure be helpful!
It's held in place by the bearings and races. The only seal is a grease seal on the back side. It could be the bearings and races are shot and what you are thinking is "hub" is actually the bearing race.
A picture of the damage would sure be helpful!
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From: FT Knox
No it is actually the hub, not the race. I havent driven this truck, as I have been in the process of trying to get it running and get it road ready. My deployment really set me behind on that. The used hub may be what I need. I have a line on a few older trucks, however the oldest one is a 67 F100, and Im not sure if they will interchange.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Well once again I am hunting for parts I can't seem to get a lead on. I took off the front hubs on my 60 F100 today to pack the front bearings and replace the grease seals if needed. To my dismay I when I started to take off the driver's side hub, I saw that it was very loose on the spindle. I took it off, and it had apparently been run like this for a while, and the hub was worn where the seal should be.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has ONE = 606-787-5293.
MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has ONE = 800-546-7278.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has THREE = 800-543-4959.
Julie: What usually happens to front hubs is...the bearing cups (races) can spin in the hubs, rendering the hubs unusable.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
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From: Poway, Ca.
B7C1104A .. Front Hub / Obsolete / Fits: 1957/63 F100 2WD / 1964 and later is not the same.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has ONE = 606-787-5293.
MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has ONE = 800-546-7278.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has THREE = 800-543-4959.
Julie: What usually happens to front hubs is...the bearing cups (races) can spin in the hubs, rendering the hubs unusable.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has ONE = 606-787-5293.
MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has ONE = 800-546-7278.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has THREE = 800-543-4959.
Julie: What usually happens to front hubs is...the bearing cups (races) can spin in the hubs, rendering the hubs unusable.
Too bad 51 hubs won't fit, I have a pair of those I'm willing to give away (is that Ilya I hear typing in the background?)
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From: FT Knox
Wow, you all came through again!! Thank you so much. I am like you too Julie, I have never seen damage quite like this before, and I've seen a few torn up things! It is odd how it ground down the inside of the hub, yet the race seems to still be solid and in its proper place. The hub must have been really loose for it to have worn like that, like the inside bearing was missing at some point to get that kind of angle. The spindle appears to be OK though. I wonder if they replaced the bearings and spindle and left the old hub just to get it rolling. Don't know why they wouldn't have replaced the hub as well, unless they couldn't find one either. Thanks to NumberDummy yet again, I will call those folks and see what they have.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I have never seen damage quite like this before, and I've seen a few torn up things! It is odd how it ground down the inside of the hub, yet the race seems to still be solid and in its proper place. The hub must have been really loose for it to have worn like that, like the inside bearing was missing at some point to get that kind of angle. The spindle appears to be OK though. I wonder if they replaced the bearings and spindle and left the old hub just to get it rolling.
Someone at some point separated the hub from the drum...and then when the parts were re-assembled, the bonehead used the old studs over again...a NO NO!
Once a drum and hub are separated, new studs MUST be installed when the parts are re-assembled. The studs have serrations on them that hold the whole tamale together.
Once the hub is separated from the drum, the serrations flatten out. Using old studs...the hub to drum fitment will be loosy-goosy.
It's possible when this occurs, the drum can walk away from the hub while the vehicle is being driven. Not pleasant!
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From: FT Knox
OK thanks for the explanation. I had honestly never seen this kind of wear before. It was odd. But just one more thing to add to the list of broken and or worn out parts I continue to find. Part of the fun though!
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
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From: Poway, Ca.
Shoot Bill that's true. But let me take it one step further with the Numbskull PO.
I'll bet he replaced the bearings and couldn't get the old race out of the hub and decided to say "screw it" and used the old race with the new bearing.
As the new bearing "wore into" the old race it became loose and the hub started to go eccentric!
The first thing that went was the seal which is lightly connected to both spindle and hub!
This happened on my Ranger and the result was the opposite: the heat welded the spindle, rotor and bearings together!
I'll bet he replaced the bearings and couldn't get the old race out of the hub and decided to say "screw it" and used the old race with the new bearing.
As the new bearing "wore into" the old race it became loose and the hub started to go eccentric!
The first thing that went was the seal which is lightly connected to both spindle and hub!
This happened on my Ranger and the result was the opposite: the heat welded the spindle, rotor and bearings together!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 783
From: Simi Valley, CA
Shoot Bill that's true. But let me take it one step further with the Numbskull PO.
I'll bet he replaced the bearings and couldn't get the old race out of the hub and decided to say "screw it" and used the old race with the new bearing.
As the new bearing "wore into" the old race it became loose and the hub started to go eccentric!
The first thing that went was the seal which is lightly connected to both spindle and hub!
This happened on my Ranger and the result was the opposite: the heat welded the spindle, rotor and bearings together!
I'll bet he replaced the bearings and couldn't get the old race out of the hub and decided to say "screw it" and used the old race with the new bearing.
As the new bearing "wore into" the old race it became loose and the hub started to go eccentric!
The first thing that went was the seal which is lightly connected to both spindle and hub!
This happened on my Ranger and the result was the opposite: the heat welded the spindle, rotor and bearings together!
The studs should be pressed out, new studs should be pressed in. Autoparts store machine shops have the press needed to do this.
I typed this info to a member here on FTE with a 1966 F100, others chimed in with the hammer method. Uh huh...guess what happened?
A coupla days later, the guy sends me a P/M, wants to know if I knew where he could buy another hub.
I didn't have a clue, cuz after 1963, Ford only sold the hub & drum as a unit.
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From: FT Knox
Guess I should have mentioned that when I was disassembling the hub, I discovered that the king pin has worn. The hub had a lot of vertical movement due to this. Would this have contributed to the damage to the hub? It seems logical that if driven this way for very long, it could cause unusual stress on the bearings and hub. It would stand to reason as the passenger side did not have this up and down movement when I took it apart.
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From: rochester n.y.
Speaking of hubs,I have a pair of hubs off my 54 f250,I removed when I converted to disc brakes. They are 8 bolt with #33672 on them,good condition,with bearings and races.Free to a good home,I realize the frieght might be expensive,I am in Roch.N>Y. I am just tired of moving them but I hate to scrap good parts F250RED
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