Reverse eye springs
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Freshman User
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From: Santa Fe, TX
Reverse eye springs
I bought new reverse eye back leaf springs for my 52 F-1. I was told that you have to flip the front rear spring hanger and grind out some of the hanger so the spring doesnt bind. Does anyone know how much I am supposed to grind out of the spring hanger for it to fit?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
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From: Poway, Ca.
Oye!
They just put new reverse eye springs on the back of my 51. But they made those special for my truck with only 6 thick leaves (instead of 10), and to automatically set the pinion angle without shims. It's too dark and cold for me to go out tonight (I know, what a woos) and get a picture but I will do it tomorrow for you and see what they did.
They just put new reverse eye springs on the back of my 51. But they made those special for my truck with only 6 thick leaves (instead of 10), and to automatically set the pinion angle without shims. It's too dark and cold for me to go out tonight (I know, what a woos) and get a picture but I will do it tomorrow for you and see what they did.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
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From: Harpswell Maine
Rather than flip the spring and grind out for clearance, I rotated the front bracket 90 degrees and moved the bracket up as high as I could on the frame rail. This avoids having to grind on the bracket and puts the load path thru a stronger direction in the bracket IMHO. I have not heard of anyone having a problem after rotating the bracket 180 degrees but I like more material resisting the load of the vehicle that you have if l you just rotate 90 degrees.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
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From: Poway, Ca.
Here's the pics I promised but I don't think they will be of much help.
It seems that only the back eye of the spring is reversed. They probably did this to incorporate the pinion angle correction needed (it was off 15 degrees and was giving me quite a substantial vibration problem).
I can see what you are talking about from the lower photo about a reverse eye in the front being to "tall." Willards suggestion sound a lot more safe than grinding that support and reducing it's strength. You are probably going to have to cut it off to get the spring out anyway. They did on mine and bolted it back in
It seems that only the back eye of the spring is reversed. They probably did this to incorporate the pinion angle correction needed (it was off 15 degrees and was giving me quite a substantial vibration problem).
I can see what you are talking about from the lower photo about a reverse eye in the front being to "tall." Willards suggestion sound a lot more safe than grinding that support and reducing it's strength. You are probably going to have to cut it off to get the spring out anyway. They did on mine and bolted it back in
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Here's the pics I promised but I don't think they will be of much help.
It seems that only the back eye of the spring is reversed. They probably did this to incorporate the pinion angle correction needed (it was off 15 degrees and was giving me quite a substantial vibration problem).
And that brings up another point. If you do install reverse eye springs, or if you do pivot and raise that front bracket, it will probably throw off the pinion angle. It needs to be aligned with the transmission to within about 3 degrees. Be sure to recheck this after you have finished your work. It will make a big difference if that is off.
Hmmmm, this double posted - I wonder how that happened...sorry!
It seems that only the back eye of the spring is reversed. They probably did this to incorporate the pinion angle correction needed (it was off 15 degrees and was giving me quite a substantial vibration problem).
And that brings up another point. If you do install reverse eye springs, or if you do pivot and raise that front bracket, it will probably throw off the pinion angle. It needs to be aligned with the transmission to within about 3 degrees. Be sure to recheck this after you have finished your work. It will make a big difference if that is off.
Hmmmm, this double posted - I wonder how that happened...sorry!
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Michigan
On my 56 I removed the front hangers and flipped them side to side (Left went to right and right to left) No grinding needed. I did raise both front and rear hangers up as high as the frame would allow. I am using posie reversed eye springs along with a small " C " notch.
Chuck
Chuck
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
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From: Harpswell Maine
On my 56 I removed the front hangers and flipped them side to side (Left went to right and right to left) No grinding needed. I did raise both front and rear hangers up as high as the frame would allow. I am using posie reversed eye springs along with a small " C " notch.
Chuck
Chuck
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Freshman User
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From: Santa Fe, TX
I bought the springs from Classic Haulers and this is what they suggested to do when installing them. I guess I will see how much I need to do when I go to install them. Julie I did have to remove the hanger to get the spring off. Pretty tough getting those rivets out. If I do grind some of the hanger out and just flip the hanger will this effect my pinion angle?
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
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From: Poway, Ca.
I bought the springs from Classic Haulers and this is what they suggested to do when installing them. I guess I will see how much I need to do when I go to install them. Julie I did have to remove the hanger to get the spring off. Pretty tough getting those rivets out. If I do grind some of the hanger out and just flip the hanger will this effect my pinion angle?
I would check it anyway no matter what you end up doing just as a finese measure on your ride. They make wedged shims to correct that angle, that fit between the axel and the spring. And adjusting this is not at all difficult.
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From: Santa Fe, TX
I dont plan on raising the hanger any. Just going to flip it and bolt it back in the original holes. I bought some 2 degree shims when I got the springs, how do you know how many shims to put in or if any?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
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From: Poway, Ca.
Hmmm, Gonna flip it 180 degrees and swap sides then because the bolt holes are not symetric - I don't see why that won't work except the strength of the mount will not longer be on top to help support/resist the load the load. But, I'm not 100% on that.
You find the angle your drive train is sitting at through its centerline, then the pinion angle through the centerline and adjust thm to within 3 or so degrees of each other. I didn't do my own, the spring shop did it with a "protractor."
But I'm sure someone has done it at home and will come on.
You find the angle your drive train is sitting at through its centerline, then the pinion angle through the centerline and adjust thm to within 3 or so degrees of each other. I didn't do my own, the spring shop did it with a "protractor."
But I'm sure someone has done it at home and will come on.
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From: Santa Fe, TX
49willard,
Do you have any pictures of the way you put you rear spring hanger back on? If so could you send them my way? Also, being that you moved the hanger further up on the frame did you have to adjust the pinion angle with more shims?
Adam
Do you have any pictures of the way you put you rear spring hanger back on? If so could you send them my way? Also, being that you moved the hanger further up on the frame did you have to adjust the pinion angle with more shims?
Adam
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Harpswell Maine
I kept the spring pivot point for the front hanger at the same relative location along the frame rail but higher on the rail.
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