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i need to replace the leaf spring hangers on a 1995 ford f150 and was wondering how difficult this is to do
VERY simple process...After getting the truck on jackstands, etc...
Simply cut/grind the 4 rivet heads off, punch out the rest of the rivets, and pull the hanger off.....I'd recommend some rust protection at this point...
THe BOlt that secures the shackle to the hanger, can be a PITA....
Otherwise...Its a simple thing.....Simply use the bolts provided with the new hanger, and reattach the shackle.....ANd you're done....
It CAN be as simple as SideWinder4.9l stated OR. The bolts for the shackle and /or the spring eye can be seized to the bushing and you will either have to cut or press them out.
Also if using the Dorman hanger and hardware, the crushed locking nuts can be a ROYAL PITA to get tight if you have a rear fuel tank
It CAN be as simple as SideWinder4.9l stated OR. The bolts for the shackle and /or the spring eye can be seized to the bushing and you will either have to cut or press them out.
Also if using the Dorman hanger and hardware, the crushed locking nuts can be a ROYAL PITA to get tight if you have a rear fuel tank
I was giving the "This is the NEEDED steps" explanation...lol
You're totally right....The spring eye bolts..... I had to cut mine off.....
I took the air hammer to the rivets and and the sawzall to the bolts then burned out the bushings... All in all about 3 hours for my rust bucket. With good tools its a simple job.
I took the air hammer to the rivets and and the sawzall to the bolts then burned out the bushings... All in all about 3 hours for my rust bucket. With good tools its a simple job.
I did the hangers on my 1992 F350 with a grinder and hand tools in 4 hours and a 12 pack of beer
I used this kit. You need to know how wide your springs are. This is for 3 inch and does not include spring bushings, if the old bolts are seized in. But all other parts needed are there in a single box ... cant go wrong.
I just took the hangers off of my project truck, the first side was a pain in the ***. I used an angle grinder and a die grinder, ground the outside heads off of the rivets then pounded away. I'm a big strong guy, and was using a sledge hammer and could not punch those rivets out.
What i did was took a drill, drilled holes in the rivets after I ground the heads off, then I took a heavy chisel, put the chisel between the frame and brackets, and then they finally popped off.
It didnt take that long to drill (and I have pretty crappy drill bits apparantly) and chisel the brackets off this way. I think after i hammered away, and started drilling, it took me about an hour for both sides.
I was saving my emergency brake cables, my brake lines, gask tanks, and wiring, so I pulled all of that stuff out beforehand, and thats what seeme to take me forever!
I used this kit. You need to know how wide your springs are. This is for 3 inch and does not include spring bushings, if the old bolts are seized in. But all other parts needed are there in a single box ... cant go wrong.
They are cheaper at napa and advanced and they come with the spring eye bushings too
With everything ? I priced the single parts and it came up to more with all the hardware. Also NOTHING is cheaper at napa here. True story, I went to napa here to get a gas fitting tool 19.99 I went across the street 6.99 in the same packaging less the Napa print on the card stock ... I only use NAPA for electronics.
when I did the shackle flip on my highboy I found that it was faster/easier to use a BFH and a good cold chisel (mine has been in the family before a chinese tool would have even been considered)
not only was it faster than the grinder, but they are already loose when its time to use a punch to drive the rest of the rivet out.
With everything ? I priced the single parts and it came up to more with all the hardware. Also NOTHING is cheaper at napa here. True story, I went to napa here to get a gas fitting tool 19.99 I went across the street 6.99 in the same packaging less the Napa print on the card stock ... I only use NAPA for electronics.
I just did a set in the spring. They both sell DORMAN hangers/shackles.
NAPA has them or can get them the next day.
The shackle(part# 650-4098) comes with bushing installed, bushing for the spring and the 2 bolts that go thru the hanger and the spring. My cost was $26 each
The hanger(part #650-4099) comes with the 7/16" mounting hardware. My cost each was $30 each
Also note the drain hole in the hanger to let some dirt out
I just did a set in the spring. They both sell DORMAN hangers/shackles.
NAPA has them or can get them the next day.
The shackle(part# 650-4098) comes with bushing installed, bushing for the spring and the 2 bolts that go thru the hanger and the spring. My cost was $26 each
The hanger(part #650-4099) comes with the 7/16" mounting hardware. My cost each was $30 each
Also note the drain hole in the hanger to let some dirt out
Good stuff... Do you have an account discount?
Originally Posted by muscletruck7379
when I did the shackle flip on my highboy I found that it was faster/easier to use a BFH and a good cold chisel (mine has been in the family before a chinese tool would have even been considered)
not only was it faster than the grinder, but they are already loose when its time to use a punch to drive the rest of the rivet out.
I agree ... I used the little trigger hammer and a sharp chisel but so much faster then grinding. These guys like grinders for some reason. If im not welding I do my best to forget I own grinders .They are my dead last go-to.. Cant stand being hit with abrasive wheel.