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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

steering column swap

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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 06:08 PM
  #1  
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steering column swap

So I changed my steering column to solve a power drain issue with the ignition/key not turning off all the way. So install of new column went great, turned the key and it fired right up. Key felt great. So I thought I would let it sit and see if the power drain problem is solved. It would always drain overnight and not start the next day.

So today I went out try it. Turned the key and the key seemed to turn too far, no spring at the end of the cycle, and wouldnt engage the starter. It is as if the key turns too far or doesnt engage the cycle soon enough. At the end of the turn I get lights on, fuel pump pressures up, all accessories function. WTF is going on here? Any help would be great. I really dont want to get another column seeing as though this one worked the night before.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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2stroke rider7
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You probably broke the ignition actuator in the column. The same thing happened to me 2 nights ago. I went to start my truck and to no avail. The ignition would turn but had no spring. So I thought maybe the ignition cylinder was bad but I researched and found out that this is pretty common to happen. You can get the part at autozone or any local parts store. It will cost around $10. It is made of pop metal and breaks pretty easily. The only hard part is replacing the part with the broken one. Since you just took your column out you should have a better understanding.

- Will
 
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 11:58 PM
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So the broken part is the steering lock lever. I can see it on top of the column. Seeing it and getting the old broken junk out and replacing it is another story. Am i in for a complete column dissassembly here? It is the tilt column 1990 as only the tilts have the steering lock lever.

I will order the part in the morning and am hoping to have it installed Saturday as I have to go pick up my free camper.

Any column help would be GREAT.
I have a steering wheel puller if need be.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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I have done several of these, here are some instructions I typed up last time I did it:


Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91

1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 06:09 PM
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Thats what i'm talking about! Thanks for taking the time to write that up! I am doing it right now and will let you know how it goes.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 11:40 PM
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Just wanted to say THANKS! The instructions you outlined worked perfectly. I fought with the two pins that hold the tilt and lost the little pin in the lock lever but all worked out.
-Jared
 
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 09:41 AM
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Glad my instructions helped you - good work!
 
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