I've had my 88 F150 since August of 99. Every winter it was very hard to start(hard to turn the key.) There were times my brother couldn't turn the key, so I had to do so for him. A couple of days ago he was borrowing me truck to go to school, and he came in and told me it wouldn't start. I had the same problem the night before, but I did get it to start. So the morning I went out and thought it would be the same ol' problem. It got pretty cold here in Michigan. I then realized that the key was turning all the way and the power was clicking on where it would usually crank over.

I started it at the solenoid so he wouldn't be late. He came home and I looked at the ignition. I pulled the cylinder out, thinking that would be the culprit, seeing that it was extremely easy to turn the key. No dice. So I pulled the plate off of the steering column, the one that unscrews, and took a look at the rod that runs to the ignition switch. I can start it if I take a pair of channel lock and push the rod up, but it seems tough. So my question is, what kind of job am I gettin in to? I recently lost my job, and really can't afford to fix it if it's too bad. I hope it's the ignition switch, but if it's in the steering column(behind the steering wheel), what can be the problem? Oh by the way, my brother said he thinks my key now slides out without hitting the button on the bottom of the wheel.

 

sounds to me like the lube in the ignition switch has gummed up and wwhen it gets cold the thing stiffens up somthing fierce.

I've had the same prob before here in minnesota.

cheap route: pull the iggy switch off the top of the column under the dash, if you are careful you may be able to disassemble it and relube it . just pay close attention to where everything goes. I've done this and had it work just fine, and ive screwed them up and had to buy a new switch it's worth the try if it works.

be sure you use a di-electric grease. if ouy dont, the rig may get real interesting really quick when you hook the power back up.

good luck! let us know how it turns out...

craterjoe

1994 f150 4.9 e4od auto sc/lb 2wd
1990 f250 7.3 diesel e40d auto sc/lb 2wd

 

Is it a tilt column? You may have to replace the linkage from the cylinder to the switch, but the parts are cheap at Ford. Even on non-tilts, that linkage is mostly pot metal, and can wear, bend, or break if there's too much resistance and the key is forced. Disassemble enough to look at it and rinse it with carb cleaner, then recoat it with aerosol white lithium grease.

 

It is a tilt wheel. I'm gonna drop the column today and take a look at the ignition switch. If it's not that simple, I'll have to pull the wheel Unless there's another way to get to the ignition?

 

The ignition switch is accessible by removing the dash panel directly below the column and maybe the column shroud, too. Even the switch linkage to the lock cylinder can be replaced with the column still installed in the truck, but you have to disassemble the tilt mechanism to do it, which is a MAJOR PITA! It's possible to do with regular tools if you're mechanically inclined and patient, but you have to tilt it all the way up before pulling the 2 pivot pins or the tilt spring will shoot you in the face.

 

Another thought,

You may be dealing with a bent rod actuator, this is a horseshoe shaped thingy that connects between the lock cylinder and the actuator rod. It is my understanding from the local Ford dealership that bending and breakage of this part was/is a problem.

I recently had to replace one on my 1990 f-250 with a tilt wheel.
the steering wheel had to come off as well as dissasembly of the top part of the column. If broken, removal of the offending component is easy at this point, if bent, break it to remove it. A new one can be had at the dealership for about 15 bucks.

Now the fun part.

With a tilt wheel the only way to get this little piece of @#%& back in is to dissasemble the tilt mechanism but I found an easier way.

Part of the actuators task is to lock the gearshift on an auto trans when the key is removed, I shortened the square arm on the actuator just enough to let me slip it back into the column without taking apart the tilt mech. This will prevent the gearshift from locking in position when parked it will still function normally otherwise. but you will be able to shift gears without the key in the lock cylinder.

Since you mention the key release button, I assume this to me a manual trans truck and the gearshift issue then would not apply.
As for how all this may differ in the column ie; manual trans column/auto trans coulmn I cant say. but if the other stuff doesnt work it may be another direction to go in. (Dang! now I have typer's cramp! )

Craterjoe.

 

I'm having a similar problem with my tilt column. I've found that the actuator rod is broken inside the cast metal ignition switch module, but I can't seem to get it off the column.

I've dropped the column, taken the wheel off, disassembled the tilt crap and disconnected the A.T. shifter from the ignition switch module but I still can't get the part overtop of the 'u-joint' at the end of the shaft to replace it.

Any ideas, other than removing the entire column? Or is that my only option...

Thx

Chris Radcliffe
cmr@netcom.ca

 

I found the problem. I pulled the steering wheel today and it is the U or C shaped thing connected to the rod that goes to the ignition switch. It was broke causing the rod to fluctuate while turning the key. I'm gonna try to pick one up.

 

Another problem. How hard is it to pull the "pins" for the tilt mechanism? (the small things on each side of the steering column)I seen that they have threads on the inside, but I read that you need some sort of press, on a much less credible site It's gonna suck but I have to fix it cause I've been starting the darn truck with channel locks. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
:-X12

 

>I found the problem. I pulled the steering wheel today and
>it is the U or C shaped thing connected to the rod that goes
>to the ignition switch. It was broke causing the rod to
>fluctuate while turning the key. I'm gonna try to pick one
>up.


This is exactly what I am refering to in my earlier post on this subject. In it i give you an option on how I replaced mine without tearing the tilt mech apart. I wouldn't make the suggestion if it didn't work for me....


craterjoe

 

to get those pins out you thread a screw with the same threads(usually the screw holding the armrest on fits, you tighten the xrew then pull with pliers. My actuater broke a couple of weeks abo so i started to work on it and couldn't get so i looked in the bargain trader and found a guy that rebuilds steering collums, he came to my house at 9pm picked up the colum and he had it back to me the next mornign at 11 for only $90 and it saved me a major headache

 

Hey everyone,
Just to be a little off the subject, I have a problem pretty close in that same area, my tilt steering section is kind of loose(makes a ticking sound when you go over bumps) and a friend told me that I have to take the steering wheel off to be able to tighten that section of the column, is this a hard job to do?

 

What year are you talking about? If it's the '80s, probably not. There's a plastic cone-shaped spacer that often wears, just behind the steering wheel.

 

Sorry about that!

1990,f150,302, w/tilt steering

 

The plastic cone spacer is about $3 at Ford. They can give you a free copy of the exploded view of the column.