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327- evp below min voltage. I've replaced this thing before.
328- egr closed dunno about that one I've cleaned the egr dunno what else to do
634- something to do with the transmission
I dunno what to do fix this the truck is running like crap, an driving me nuts cause it's really making me want to sell the truck. So I'm off my rant.
327- evp below min voltage. I've replaced this thing before.
328- egr closed dunno about that one I've cleaned the egr dunno what else to do
634- something to do with the transmission
I dunno what to do fix this the truck is running like crap, an driving me nuts cause it's really making me want to sell the truck. So I'm off my rant.
Thanks in advance
Not opening. Either the EGR regulator isn't supplying vac to open the valve or the diaphram of the EGR valve is leaking. If you remove the Vac hose from the EGR valve. There should be no vac. Have someone bring idle to 2K. there should be a lot of vac at the hose. No vac, bad regulator.
I disagree. DTC 327 and 328 indicate the closed EGR voltage is below the minimum of ~.2VDC. This can be caused by a bad EVP sensor or the EGR diaphragm/spring is collapsed allowing the closed voltage to be too low. Reference this website: Ford Fuel Injection Three-Digit Codes 224-525
I also question the statement of revving the engine from idle to 2K and checking for vacuum at the EGR valve. I am not 100% certain the PCM will turn on the EVR to allow vacuum to be applied to the EGR valve when the vehicle is stationary.
The engine temp also has to be in the normal range (~195F) to open the EGR valve (turn on the vacuum).
He may also have bad wiring or plug at the EVP sensor.
But this will not cause the truck to run bad (closed EGR valve).
It may cause it to run a little better and warmer.
I would look for a vacuum leak.
634 say the transmission was not in park when the test was ran.
Ok vacuum leaks might be it im trying to replace the hard ones with rubber stuff the egr one was the first one i did. The truck was in park when i did the test, i have a feeling my mlps is getting old but i don't want to go through the hassle of having to repin a new one to work(probably will have to). and the truck was warmed up i had reset the computer and drove a good 20 miles after and then did the test.
Ok i tried out a new EVP sensor and no change, i then re cleaned the EGR no change. so got my money back on the sensor. I also ran the codes with the enigne running and got 632 which says overdrive cancel switch not changing states (E4OD) but still have the other codes.
You got the overdrive cancel switch not changing states because you did not push the button on the end of the shifter during the test at the right time.
If it was in park then you may have a bad MLPS as the computer is saying the resistance value on the wires for park is wrong. Could also be the wiring from the MLPS to the computer.
You may also have wiring problems to the EVP sensor.
Or of course a bad or wrong computer could cause all of this also.
I was going the same direction as subford. Have you actually measured the EVP signal with a DVM? If the signal is correct, it could be a wiring problem to/from the PCM to the EVP.