check this one out its adjustable also so it would be great on a disk conversion front or rear, and it is 57 bucks

Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-11179 - Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valves - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

Thats a version I have never seen before too. I like that for my application because when you pull a big trailer you can crank in some more rear brake.

BTW, Nice bike pruitt.

 

i have looked around for a little while now and this seems to be the best option i have found, its cheap and adjustable. i plan on running one on my truck since i converted it to rear disk. now if i could just find a cheap drive line e-brake. thanks for the complement on the bike, its just an old kawasaki kz750 twin that i built a ridgid frame for

 

Are you looking for emergency brake cables ? Green Sales has some knock off Ford cables pretty resonable. They have the rears for my 78 F250 Crewcab for like $55.00 a piece.

 

no i am looking for a driveline brake to use as my e-brake, i converted the rear to disk and i was going to run the caddy eldorado calipers, they have a mechanical arm that is used to apply the e-brake built into them alot like a brake on some 4 wheelers with mechanical brakes, but after readind up on them i decided not to. the driveline brakes are high dollar so for now i guess i will carry a block of wood on a rope.

 

I ended up purchasing the proportioning valve from Wild Horses for $95 plus shipping. It looked like the highest quality one I could find. I realized that the brake lines I got from Inline Tube already have all the correct fittings that I will need, so I didn't buy the fitting kit.

I've spent more on this damn truck in the past month than I spent in buying the truck originally ($500)!

 

thats what always happens

 

I addressed this in another thread before but did not get anything solid back. I own a 74 F100 2WD and replaced my pro valve with the same one that you bought from wild horses only I got mine from Bronco Graveyard. I installed a new indicator light in my dash, but I cannot figure out how to wire the valve properly. I played around with my light tester, but could not find one of the wires hot. I tried splicing them together and grounding them, but the light did not come on. I know that the light gets it's ground from the valve when it shuttles to during fluid loss. Does anyone that has used an aftermarket pro valve with one wire remember how to wire the new valve properly...and if so, how can I test the wiring so that I know it will work (put it to ground?) Thanks in advance.

 

I has been a while but I looked at mine a little and figured it out I think. The original brake light is a light bulb turned into the printed circuit. My engine compartment wires all burned up in a engine fire so I used a light from by brothers spare 80,s insterment cluster that has 2 wires instead of the printed circuit. It went in the hole pretty good from what I can remember. One wire goes to a positive power source. I would use one that comes one when the key is in run, stereo, cigarette lighter, etc. The other one goes to the brake valve switch. When the switch is not in the center position then the wire will ground and the light will come on. You can test the light by grounding the wire. I moved the button on the switch to test mine also but that was before I had bled the system.

 

Thank you, I was way overthinking this whole thing. I will just wire the power end of the buld to a keyed source and run a new ground wire to the switch. I was looking at the wiring diagram and I couldn't wrap my head around it for some reason. Thanks again. I am going to take care the light tonight.

 

Glad I could help.

 

I'm new to FTE & appreciate the opportunity to participate here. I actually have 2 old Ford trucks; one is a 1973 F-250 4WD standard transmission w/ 6' bed, and the other is a 1979 Ford F-150 Custom w/ 8' bed.

I am very soon putting a 1978 460 cu in engine from a Ford Motor Home into the 1979 F-150, but I cannot locate a needed flywheel for it. Any used flywheel source for same would be appreciated @ a reasonable price.

For the F-250, I need a brake proportioning valve. Same request for a new valve at a reasonable price.

I have read the threads and see that the design for the above needed F-250 brake proportioning valve may be hard to match up, particularly as described by the retired Ford Parts Manager. Through him especially I am appreciative of any help that he, (or anyone), can give to me.

Eventually, I want to use the good running much more powerful 351 M engine from the F-150 as replacement engine for the F-250, which has a poor/weak running undersized from orginal stock engine (a 351 Windsor small block) in it now.

So I am looking at a lot of work swapping in and out 2 engines in these great 2 Ford trucks.

Of course, I am going to need new pressure plates and clutch plates for both engines, plus I need the clutch fork for the 460 engine. I do have a spare bell housing for the 460 engine.

Thanks much for any helps in locating these (and possibly more) parts in the future.

Very nice to be a new member of this Ford FTE Group.
Byron

 

....old thread but since it was brought up....

1967 was the first year all U.S. domestic vehicles went from a single reservoir MC to a dual reservoir MC (federal mandate). This is also when the pressure differential valve came into use.

Brake pressure differential valve from my 1969 F100 (my truck had 4-wheel drum brakes --as did all '67-'72 F100s from the factory).



In 1967, the plastic pressure differential warning switch sticking out of the valve body had a single contact prong. From 1968-onward, the switch had two contact prongs. However, the two pins are tied together so, even though there are two prongs they are both at the same potential, electrically.

Internal view of a pressure differential valve.



The first Ford trucks to get optional front discs were the '68-'72 F250s and F350s. These trucks also used the same pressure differential brake valves as the trucks that had all-wheel drums. The only difference was the addition of an inline, stand-alone metering valve to the front disc brake circuit. (No proportioning function existed on these trucks).

Metering valve.





In 1973, all the trucks from F100 through F350 came standard with front disc brakes. Power brakes was optional.

There were three brake functions utilized on the Dentside 2WD trucks: Metering to the front discs, pressure differential sensing between the front and rear brake circuits and proportioning to the rear drums. These three brake functions were combined into one valve body assembly.

The two most common disc/drum 'combination' brake valves you'll find on a Dentside light duty truck will either have a brass valve body that was made by Weatherhead or, a cast iron valve body that was manufactured by Kelsey-Hayes.

Brass Weatherhead brake valve from a 1975 F350 (mounting bracket is not Ford. I made that).



Kelsey-Hayes brake valve from a 1977 Ford F100.



Diagram of (brass) Weatherhead valve on top, (cast iron) Kelsey-Hayes valve on bottom.




The dual-prong plastic brake pressure warning switch, from 1968-on, is wired for a prove out circuit to the ignition switch. When you turn the key to the 'on' position, the red brake warning light will momentarily illuminate until the key moves to the 'run' position, at which time the warning light should go off.

This is to let the driver know the warning lamp (the bulb) is good and that the pressure in the brake system is balanced. If the light stays lit, when the key moves to the 'run' position, then there's a (hydraulic) problem with the brake system that needs to be addressed.

A voltage signal is sent to the switch through the connector that plugs into the switch. As long as the pressure differential valve spool is centered, the warning light will not come on. However, if there's an imbalance in fluid pressure between the front and rear brake circuits, the higher fluid pressure of the good circuit will push on the end of the valve spool and shove it over to the side with the least fluid pressure (the failed side).

This will push the plunger in on the warning switch that will close the switch contacts and a current path to ground will be made through the body of the valve. This, in turn, will illuminate the brake warning light on the dash to alert the driver there's a hydraulic failure in the brake system (it means that ALL your brakes ain't workin').

It is possible to determine if a brake valve is centered (or, if it's off-center), without having the electrical system of the vehicle powered up. --this would be useful in the wrecking yard, if you're looking for a donor valve and want to know what to expect before getting the donor valve and putting it on your truck).

Below, I have my old original '69 F100 (4-wheel drum) pressure differential valve to show how to check it, without it being powered up by the vehicle. --whether your Ford brake valve looks like this or not, the pressure differential function operates the same. (It can be checked like this, on or off the vehicle).

Place one meter lead on the switch prong (meter set for Ohms --or, in 'audible mode' if your meter has this function), and the other lead to the valve body. --doesn't matter if the switch has one prong or two or which prong, of a two prong switch, you touch --remember earlier, I said the two prongs were tied together and were at the same electrical potential?

Pressure warning switch showing metal bar, at lower ends of the pins, that ties them together.



If the valve spool is centered, as it should be, there will be no continuity through the switch (if your meter has an audible feature, there'll be no 'beep').



If the pressure differential valve is shifted, you'll get a resistance value or, you'll get an audible 'beep.'




Both the Weatherhead brass valve assembly and the cast iron valve assembly styles, used on the Dentsides, were also used on other vehicle makes of the time.

The most common aftermarket reproduction valve you'll find is based off of the General Motors brake valve, which is very similar to the brass Weatherhead valve that was used on the Dentsides. I don't know what the pressure settings (metering or proportioning rates) are for the reproduction valve but, the biggest, most obvious difference is with the plastic warning switch sticking out of the valve body. It isn't the same as the Ford switch.

Classic Performance Brake Proportioning Valves PV-2 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing


When I converted my manual 4-wheel drum '69 F100 to front discs, I swapped to a disc brake front suspension from a 1977 F100, a dual diaphragm brake booster from a 1975 F350, a MC for a 1995 Ford Explorer and a disc/drum 'combination' brake valve from a 1984 Ford pickup. This setup works EXTREMELY well on my truck.













If you're going to do brake work --or, most especially if you're going to modify your brake system, make sure you thoroughly research the subject to understand what components are involved, how they function and what functions do (or don't) apply to particular brake configurations.

Of all the systems of a vehicle, there are none more important than the brakes. Your life and the lives of others depends on your brakes working without flaw. Being cheap or cutting corners with a vehicle's brake system has potential for great peril.