I have new alliant o-rings and I am going to replace originals and glow plugs. Does anybody have a video or tips on how to replace the o-rings. From what I understand, they are pretty damn hard to get in place because they are so tight and that you do not want to roll them down, like a condom, into place. Also, any tips on removing the passenger cover. I have had the driver's off and comfortable with that, but have not yet tackled the passenger. Thanks.

 

There is some info here ...Injector Oring Installation pictures from outdoors photos on webshots...

 

Here some more info on replacing injectors..that might help..\
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...rs-are-in.html &

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...-injector.html

 

How many miles do you have on your injectors?
I would recommend you send them out and have them rebuilt. They need to be checked to see if they hold pressure and flow the correct amount of fuel. High mileage injectors should have their nozzles replaced regardless. A split nozzle makes for a bad day. (talking from experience here..)

The passenger side VC is the easiest side to do (at least I think so anyway...). Jack up your truck a little bit and take off the right front wheel. You will then be able to reach the two lower bolts through the fender well pretty easily. If you can't get the wire harness to come off the MAP sensor without too much force, then just unscrew the whole sensor (2 torx screws) and sling it over the transmission dipstick tube to keep it out of your way (assuming you have an automatic...)

The rest is pretty easy. Make sure you secure your under valve cover harness with the plastic clips or the 50cent mod (do a search and you'll find a lot of good info). I went with the plastic clips because I had them already and I was unsure about putting a piece of metal on top of a (somewhat) high voltage connector. Although, the 50cent mod seems to work without any issues so I might be worried about nothing anyway....

 

Here's a little sumpin sumpin I wrote up not too long ago for another guy over at the DieselGarage:

Watch these videos. Gives you instructions on removing the oil rail plugs, removing and installing injectors, and purging the cylinders with the glow plugs out:

Engine Pull :: Oil Plug video by MazdaMartinb4k - Photobucket

Engine Pull :: Injector Removal video by MazdaMartinb4k - Photobucket

Engine Pull :: Injector Install video by MazdaMartinb4k - Photobucket

Injectors :: Purging cylinders video by MazdaMartinb4k - Photobucket

Couple of things to note...... be VERY careful with those oil rail plugs. They can strip easily.

When installing the injectors, make sure they are bottomed out completely when you tap them in with the rubber mallet. I used a level to ensure that all injectors were seated equally and that none of them were sticking up higher than the others.

Purge the cylinders with the glow plugs out. That gives the remaining oil and fuel in the cylinders somewhere to evacuate so you don't hydrolock the engine. You can do this by putting the valve covers back on (only use a couple of bolts to hold them in place, finger tight is all you need), this will keep the oil from spraying all over the engine compartment. Also ensure that when you purge the cylinders that the injectors won't try to fire. Simply unplug the electrical connector on the CPS, or leave the injector harness unplugged. As an added bonus step that I do personally, after those quick purges shown in the video, I also did some extended cranking afterwards to evacuate a little more out of the cylinders, and also to start getting oil flowing back into the HPOP reservoir and the rails. Oh, and make sure the oil rail plugs are back in when you do this, and you can leave the valve cover gaskets (with wiring) out of the truck during this step so that the glow plug wires and connectors don't flop around freely while you're cranking. Sometimes the simple things get overlooked. Ya never know!!!

Also, if you want to triple check everything... after purging the cylinders and reinstalling the glow plugs, put the valve cover gasket back on and clip/plug all the wires back in to the injectors and glow plugs. Leave the valve covers off, plug in all the wiring (CPS wiring and injector harness), and crank the truck. Let it idle with the valve covers off and check to make sure the injectors are firing equally (watch the oil flow out of the oil deflectors, it should be equal on all injectors). Once you are sure everything works with the engine running, shut it off, reinstall the valve covers, intercooler piping, etc, and you're done.

Last, go drive the truck a good 30 minutes to get rid of all the smoke and purge the air out of the oil lines. It's going to have a white haze for the first several miles, then it will gradually reduce and go back to normal with no smoke. Also it's going to run rough at first. This is typical.

Hope this helps. And props to Maintain for those videos.

P.S. When cranking, make sure you don't leave any rags in the intake or turbo.

 

Thanks Curtis, that will help a lot. I will look those videos over. I have seen them before and those are exactly what I wanted to look at again. I replace my #8 last year, so I am a little familiar with the process, but this will be on a more grand scale.
I would like to run the truck with the passenger valve cover off to further diagnose what is going on with the two injectors in question. To do this, should I just hook the intercooler tube back up, or do people run it without that in place?

 

I left my intercooler tubes disconnected and out of the engine bay when I had the truck idle with the valve covers off. Truck ran fine doing that, plus it was less work for me.

 

Very nice post Curtis, reps coming ya way

 

I have a question about the little under the cover oil rail plugs. I have read that people have suggested to hit the plugs with a punch and hammer. In Marty's video, he raps the plug with the socket inserted. Does this accomplish the same thing? Is the theory to just shock the threads and possibly loosen any seal? Marty's method also makes sure the hex is fully seated into the plug. I just don't know what they mean when they say to strike the plug with a punch and hammer. Do they mean straight on to shock the plug?

 

The idea is to knock your fitting into the plug to make sure it's fully seated. Giving it a tap with a hammer or something will make sure you've got it seated. If you don't have the bit all the way in the plug, it's easy to strip the hole out.