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It's always best to go easy on the loctite, i never use the stuff unless it's specifically recommended for whatever reason(even then i usually opt not to). Most bolts really dont even have an issue with vibrating loose, and loctite can make it a huge pain of removing a bolt if you ever need to take it out again. Those damn cross pin bolts in 8.8 axles are a good examples of it, they're loctited in there so bad that the bolt usually breaks trying to take it off.
Pretty much anytime i put a steel bolt into something aluminum i use anti-seize though. Not so much for galling....i mean...a bolt doesnt really gall unless you cross thread it, but corrosion becomes an issue sometimes.
Loctite does prevent corrosion since it also seals the threads. In one job I worked on, I was welding stainless nyloc nuts to a steel foundation for seawater exposure, and the bolts going in were nickel-copper which galls if you look at it wrong. The specs called for anti-seize but if the nyloc got burned out during welding then there was a provision to use blue locktite. In disassembling the old assembly, there were a few nuts that had been burned out, and once the initial bond of the Loctite was broken, they came right out.
well hopefully you have some sort of shop manual (preferably a factory one) that your using when you assemble the engine. Specifically head bolts if it says to dip the bolts in oil before install and torqueing or to put them in dry. I have see a dope dip bolts in oil when it was not suppose to be done and it interfered with the final torque, the car came back with a misfire because the bolts worked loose.
I also like to Neverseize just about any bolt I install on just about everything. Loctite only when its specified. Just watch the torque specs as mentioned, as Neverseize acts as a lubricant and can cause you to overtighten if you're not careful.
This has nothing to do with an engine, but never use Neversieze (or Antisieze) on lugs for wheels. Especially in areas where they use salt or calcium chloride for de icing of roads. I know someone that did on an tractor trailer and had to burn off the nuts and replace the lugs. Talked to my guy that does my inspections about it and he said there is some kind of reaction with the salt and anti sieze. He had to burn off a few nuts and replace lugs on customer vehicles where they did this as well.
Everything I've bought aluminum said to use anti-seize. I'd go with what your manufacturer say's to use. I do use ARP studs in everything I can though.